Left ropes at Chair Peak rap station

[ann]

Oh, the embarrassment.

 

I had to leave two ropes at the Chair Peak rap station yesterday. I neglected to run the knot past the cornice, and of course the knot then got wedged in the slice in the hard snow when we attempted to pull the ropes. So I got two, count'em TWO ropes stuck. Both bi-color 60's, an orange-based one and a tan-based one.

 

I'm hoping the next party that raps will be able to get them unstuck and just drop them down into the gulley so I can retrieve them. This may involve having to cut off the stuck part if it's iced in.

 

So if you see these two ropes free and sitting in a pile somewhere up there in the gully or basin, if you could respond to this post or send me a PM I'd be greatful.

Edited February 24, 2008 by ann

[marek]

Ann, don't feel bad about it. I did the same thing there on Feb 17th; it took me 30min to get our 2 60m ropes out; I just tied end of the rope back into my harness and then pulled down as hard as I could/ eventually it gave in.

Marek

ps, re-post in relevant section; Alpine Lakes

[jbjbj]

Hmmm... a lost thread, and a corresponding found thread. Were you folks able to connect?

[Bug]

Too cool.

[CascadeClimber]

Yeah, I have your ropes. And for what it it' worth, moving the knot past the slot in the cornice wasn't enough to make them pull: I had to drop them from above. PM me and we'll figure out how to get them back to you.

[sk]

Yeah, I have your ropes. And for what it it' worth, moving the knot past the slot in the cornice wasn't enough to make them pull: I had to drop them from above. PM me and we'll figure out how to get them back to you.

 

FYI you totaly RULE for being awsome and returning these.

[goatboy]

Any TR's from all this activity on Chair Peak???

 

Curious about updates on NE Buttress and N Face routes....

 

Thanks.

[pup_on_the_mountain]

NF is in great shape. I even placed 5-6 screws. Crux was getting on the NF proper (over the moat). I heard the waterfall on the NEB is spicy, but not a show-stopper. Bunch of teams out there Sunday, including soloists (on both routes). Floatation was not needed on the way up in the morning, but we found snowshoes useful on the way down. Despite some doubts about crusty snow, the skiers had fun as well.

 

I've some pictures here.

 

I guess Chair TR's here have been scoffed at enough that people are afraid to post them any more .

[kurthicks]

both were sieged last weekend from what i was told in an email. the NEB waterfall was "spicy". NF crux is getting over the glide crack.

[goatboy]

Thanks for the updates!

[ericb]

Kurt - can you define "spicy"

[kurthicks]

white, aerated, and steeper than usual.

[ericb]

got it...thanks

[CascadeClimber]

Agree: Both routes are in plum shape, as these routes go. If you are expecting continuous water ice you will be disappointed. If you want fun, airy climbing without a lot of scratching around on rock, then go get on them. The NF route is starting left of normal, and then traversing into the usual corner because of the avy crown. This isn't the usual glide crack that forms, it's a full-on overhanging crown. The route had decent ice and neve, especially if you stay just left of the normal line (20 feet or so).

 

The NEB has a spicy start on the right side, and the crux up high was surprisingly attention-getting. It's good ice and protectable, but steep for just a few moves. There is good snow coverage on the rib above the opening pitch, and also across the east face to the crux.

 

The approach is (was) in super-easy shape. I was 85 minutes to the Thumb Tack from the lot. I started on the NEB, then went over to the NF. It was in such good shape and so much fun that I ran another lap on it, then skied back to the car. Even with my crappy skiing and tired legs, I was on my way home just after 1:30, having left the car at 6:45.

 

Edit to add: I got Ann's ropes back to her yesterday, but my wallet went missing. What the hell happened to Karma?? Thanks to Ann for a nice bottle of wine!