DCramer Posted February 21, 2008 Posted February 21, 2008 5.11 with poor pro is bread and butter E4. Andy Burham once told me (right after leading it) that p1 of Japanese gardens was E4 6a. Quote
kevbone Posted February 21, 2008 Posted February 21, 2008 5.11 with poor pro is bread and butter E4. I am having a hard time deciding if your words are from personal experience. If you are just cocky by nature or do you back up your words with “hard trad” sends? Quote
RuMR Posted February 21, 2008 Posted February 21, 2008 5.11 with poor pro is bread and butter E4. Andy Burham once told me (right after leading it) that p1 of Japanese gardens was E4 6a. hardly bad pro on that rig... My understanding of the mirky english system is that the E rating can reflect EITHER the sustainedness or the quality of the gear...the second number is the actual technical level of the hardest move...how to understand which thing the E represents is a mystery to me... Quote
G-spotter Posted February 21, 2008 Posted February 21, 2008 (edited) 5.11 with poor pro is bread and butter E4. Andy Burham once told me (right after leading it) that p1 of Japanese gardens was E4 6a. hardly bad pro on that rig... My understanding of the mirky english system is that the E rating can reflect EITHER the sustainedness or the quality of the gear...the second number is the actual technical level of the hardest move...how to understand which thing the E represents is a mystery to me... The idea is that it requires the same difficulty overall to lead a well protected climb at a harder grade as it does to lead an easier but scary climb so they get the same E grade. Like it's as hard to climb an unprotected 5.10 as it is to lead a well-protected 11. You can see this in practice when people say they climb 5.12 on bolts but 5.10 trad. Edited February 21, 2008 by G-spotter Quote
kevbone Posted February 21, 2008 Posted February 21, 2008 Mmmm.....for what I have read about the E grading scale. I have to say it sounds gay! Quote
RuMR Posted February 21, 2008 Posted February 21, 2008 5.11 with poor pro is bread and butter E4. Andy Burham once told me (right after leading it) that p1 of Japanese gardens was E4 6a. hardly bad pro on that rig... My understanding of the mirky english system is that the E rating can reflect EITHER the sustainedness or the quality of the gear...the second number is the actual technical level of the hardest move...how to understand which thing the E represents is a mystery to me... The idea is that it requires the same difficulty overall to lead a well protected climb at a harder grade as it does to lead an easier but scary climb so they get the same E grade. Like it's as hard to climb an unprotected 5.10 as it is to lead a well-protected 11. You can see this in practice when people say they climb 5.12 on bolts but 5.10 trad. i understand the concept...but they never tell you whether the route is hard but protected or ez but scary with that E rating... Quote
G-spotter Posted February 21, 2008 Posted February 21, 2008 You can infer it from the tech. grade. Like E4 5b will be loose, scary and poor pro but E4 6b will be one hard move with bomber gear at your waist. For instance I've apparently climbed E3 5b (according to the 3rd ascentionist) but failed on E2 5c which suggests I am OK with scary runouts but weak. Quote
DCramer Posted February 21, 2008 Posted February 21, 2008 (edited) Anyone remember the old "S" grade that McKlane set up. I think the northwest should bring that back only change it to an "I" because I is the first letter of Intensity and our favorite place to climb. Edited February 21, 2008 by DCramer Quote
David Trippett Posted February 21, 2008 Posted February 21, 2008 I'd think E4 6b would be more appropriate for Jap Gardens...but I haven't done that much bold trad. If you haven't already...and you have questions about the Brit grades... give this a read... http://www.rockfax.com/publications/grades.html and then watch this vid... http://news.bbc.co.uk/player/sol/newsid_7080000/newsid_7082100/7082148.stm?bw=bb&mp=rm&news=1 Quote
G-spotter Posted February 21, 2008 Posted February 21, 2008 Anyone remember the old "S" grade that McKlane set up. I think the northwest should bring that back only change it to an "I" because I is the first letter of Intensity and our favorite place to climb. The S was for Sandbag. Quote
pink Posted February 22, 2008 Posted February 22, 2008 (edited) I am weak. and your a nerd Edited February 22, 2008 by pink Quote
G-spotter Posted February 22, 2008 Posted February 22, 2008 I am weak. and your a nerd And I accept it, but you're still in the furry closet. sickie baa Quote
new2ctownclimbr Posted February 23, 2008 Posted February 23, 2008 Besides the rack I would suggest studying John Long's books on climbing anchors. Learn how to use your gear properly and efficiently as well as starting out on climbs that are within your limits. Maybe do them as topropes first. However, onsight climbing is the most rewarding and unpredictable. Quote
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