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a couple of oldtimers climb at Index


old 5.9

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On the 23nd of January my wife and I had to make a trip to Seattle so she could go for chemo at the cancer center. Since the weather had been clear for several days and we had deluxe accommodations at the Marriot for the evening we decided to go to Index on the 22nd for a day of climbing.

Since we’re not planning anything too aggressive I take a really spartain rack and we start with The Great Northern Slab via the hand crack above the railroad bolts. After topping out on the slab we wander on over to the terrace hangout a while then throw a rope on Breakfast of Champions and I run a bunch of top rope laps on it. Aside from being longer could there be a better hand crack?

 

peg-rc.jpg

Peggy at the Rodgers Corner tree

 

After rapping from the tree at the top of Rodgers Corner I run a few laps on it taking the 10c start.

 

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Sugar Bear

 

So there you have it no gruesome chilling headpoint leads just two old timers having a great day on the rocks.

 

The next day I went back up and did some brushing up by Quarry Crack while Peggy went for her treatments.

 

quarry-before.jpg

before

 

quarry-after.jpg

after

 

On an unrelated note are those anchors atop the Narrow Arrow still lousy or have they been upgraded?

 

IMG_0118-copy.jpg

view from a short way up Narrow Arrow standard route

Edited by old 5.9
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:tup:

 

If you are referring to the old ones on the East Ledges ( In your two near bottom pictures) I think the rap route is still a couple of old ¼” bolts with a goofy chain set-up. I have heard that there is a new anchor above the Quarry Crack route that can be used but I haven’t actually seen it for myself.

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BoC is a stellar climb! Don't TR it Sherri! Go for the lead. The gear is stellar and fear is worth at least a 1/2 grade of climbing ability! :)

 

Both times I've followed "Old 5.9" on BoC it has totally kicked my a*#; I can't imagine how ugly my leading attempt would be on it. :eek:

 

 

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