David Trippett Posted January 30, 2008 Posted January 30, 2008 Trip: Chile-Torres del Brujo - Various Date: 1/10/2008 Trip Report: Hi all, I'll post a complete TR when I have time, I'm still in South America and need to get the photos from the other guys as well. Torres del Brujo In Early- Mid January Wagner Machado(Curitiba, Brasil), Joao Cassol(Forianopolis, Brasil) and David Trippett(Vancouver, B.C.) repeated the classic route "Uno Poco de Patagonia"(much congratulations to the FA team for this very classic and aesthetic line) and completed a new route in the Torres del Brujo area. After being foiled by poor conditions on the Brujo glacier that continues to bar access to the 500m Brujo Falso and under-reported lines we finally found one last line hiding out near the ice-fall tongue from the upper ice-cap. We completed our route free in one long day from camp. Our route is composed of several long and high quality pitches of steep crack climbing followed by a long and convoluted lower to mid 5th class ridge with the occasional step of no harder than 5.9 leading to the summit. We saw no previous signs of ascent on our chosen line and believe our route to be entirely new and completely independent of others on the wall except perhaps the final summit ledge system(1-2p). "A Ultima Dama"(The Last Lady)- Our proposal for the grade is IV 5.10+. Keeping in mind that the first ascent team was three, a fast party should reduce the commitment time, but we believe our proposed grades to be appropriate. In addition, we opened some single pitch routes in the 5.11-5.10 range that I will report on later. Torres del Brujo the 65m first pitch of our route....Joao Cassol following, I'm belaying from the Chimney Wagner Machado leading up high on our route Joao and Wagner on the summit Wagner on his new 1 pitch route "Cu de Gato" The Brujo team- Joao Cassol, Wagner Machado and David Trippett "A Ultima Dama" IV 5.10+ Gear Notes: lots of gear Approach Notes: 2 days with Mules Quote
Blake Posted January 30, 2008 Posted January 30, 2008 David, good job! That stone looks fantastic. Respek! to all the local guys sending in Patagonia. Quote
pink Posted January 31, 2008 Posted January 31, 2008 looks bitchin dude. how was the rock quality. Quote
ken4ord Posted January 31, 2008 Posted January 31, 2008 Hell yeah, look like very nice area, it is amazing how clean the rock is down there, looking for more eye candy. Quote
G-spotter Posted February 1, 2008 Posted February 1, 2008 Send a TR to alpinist, they'll probably run it in the Newswire. Quote
Weekend_Climberz Posted February 2, 2008 Posted February 2, 2008 Good work. PNW in da house :tup: Quote
Blake Posted February 2, 2008 Posted February 2, 2008 (edited) Special Delivery Update! Now Sending All Across Edited February 2, 2008 by Blake Quote
David Trippett Posted February 2, 2008 Author Posted February 2, 2008 In more PNW/SWBC news.....Jason Kruk and Will Stanhope, a couple of the Squamish young guns, I think they're both both 19, sent a new route on the complete west ridge of Poincenot over a couple days. DNV Direct (5.11 R/X A1). Way to go guys! Quote
Joe_Poulton Posted February 2, 2008 Posted February 2, 2008 Smooth...wish my ACL wasn't torn so I could be out there instead of here...Peace Quote
Adventureboy Posted February 3, 2008 Posted February 3, 2008 yup, PNW/SWBC strike again killing seemingly from nowhere. Just proud of all the bros in patagonia Jesse, Dylan, Tobey, Dave T.(okay not dave but he puffs tough enough to be from here) Colin. Torre Trverse, Casarotto Pillar, Poincenot ina push , grade VII solo of some damn thing. Just keeps getting better, and theres more to come Quote
beaconben Posted February 7, 2008 Posted February 7, 2008 HOLY SHIT DAVID. What a bag. Is that the same guy you did lost arrow spire with. BTW, my brother got in some good climbing in Rio, especially for a non climber. Thanks for the tips Quote
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