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Posted

Can't let what looks to be shaping up like a great day for the Corner get away just being fatter than I already am now. Got places to be later in the afternoon so it will have to be a bit of a dash, but early on the Corner is where you'll find me - anyone else game? Maybe YW instead...?

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Posted

Have a great climb. As you know, I need to stay home and help Jasmine with her New Years day party.

 

BTW, if any of you think you should be there, then come. (3:30-8pm) I'm bad at organizing invitations, please don't take it as an affront. Got beer, wine, lots of food. Show up. Say hi.

 

:wave:

Posted

I was out there today running the trail and the wind was nuking up the corner. I usually hang out at the top of Uprising after I run a couple laps on the trail and it was a windy MoFo there today. That said, I am itching to get out and if I can pacify the wife and kids, maybe I will see you out there. Scheduled for a mid day bbq at some a buddies out here in NB though. Have a good time if I don't see you. Happy New Year to all!

 

How early were you thinking JH?

Posted

Probably not until around 11:00 or so - I like to let the wind get a good head of steam up. The more it rages the better I like it - keeps me moving, awake and howling. If it's really going you have to lean hard about 50 pounds to the right all the way up the corner ridge - eeehhaaaaaaa!

Posted

It is especially fun when you yell ROPE and throw the rope and it actually goes UP, had that one time in Vegas. You could stand up on a vertical wall just by leaning into the wind. Good times for sure. I don't think I can make it that late as I have a 2pm bbq that I am committed to. Maybe I will see you out there though.

Posted

letsroll & I were out there today; the wind kicked up pretty good in the early afternoon, but otherwise a beautiful day & a great way to end 2007. After doing some aiding we went over to the Corner & did the first pitch, which was pretty wet. The slab pitch looked slick above the bulge so we rapped off. Have fun out there tomorrow!

Posted

haaaaaa! so damn wasted from digging an endless trench through infinite deep snow over the past few days to even contemplate climbing a ladder - i'll be out there soon enough though!

Posted
haaaaaa! so damn wasted from digging an endless trench through infinite deep snow over the past few days to even contemplate climbing a ladder - i'll be out there soon enough though!
I been wondering how your slog fest went...
Posted

soooo - how was it? could see all the way to mt jeff from my b-room today - musta been good, as it was warm - bet it was still drippy though...

Posted

Ivan, I was hungover and late getting out there so by the time I did, around 2pm, it was overcast in the Gorge. It was still pretty cold, but nothing serious. The wind was another story. It was definitely one of the top three windiest days I've done out there and not in the normal way which I love. Instead it was generating pretty unusual and powerful back currents (West and down) which I've never experienced.

 

The tree was also being blown due South or even slightly Southeast towards the river which I've not seen before which set up a large bucking motion lifting the entire tree - root mat, stones, and all the soil - off the ledge an inch and a half. It was bucking so much, I moved myself and the rope, while I restacked it, off the roots so I wouldn't get drug off with it if the tree went.

 

On p3, especially on the technical moves above the tree the wind was funneling straight down the corner dihedral blowing me over backwards towards the tree at every move. On the third 'hump', with the hand jam and decent ledge, I was having a seriously hard time just standing there and had to relock the handjam several times and use a piece to guard that single move in case I got pitched over backwards.

 

All in all a real eye-opener after being away, then sedentary spending weeks stuffing my face. I lasted awhile at Bill's party (thanks Bill...!), but had to bail and take a rest - I'm more thrashed than I expected.

Posted

uh, I left those there to help others who might also be climbing in the cold wet slippery-ness!? Forgive this newbie dumbass, but you might need a hammer to get the P3 nut out after I stood on it for almost half a freaking hour.

Posted

Ivan, yeah, I have the lot of it. Billbob, the nut on p3 came out no problem as it fit pretty well to the geometry of the placaement. BTW, how old is that long light blue Mammut sling? Looks ready for retirement.

Posted

it's pretty old, and hanging out in the freezing weather for a few weeks probably didn't help :P

 

i'd be happy enough to just get the 'biners back as the draws could all use replacing...

Posted

Folks have been down there judging by the footprints. Still a bit of a blur, but I think at the party Dan said he'd been down there on the 31st - maybe doing some aid. Corner definitely went unloved from the look of things.

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