chair peak, north face winter

[harringtonandy]

i need some beta for a winter ascent of chair peaks north face

[Bug]

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Board=3&Number=636511&Searchpage=3&Main=47991&Words=Chair&topic=0&Search=true#Post636511

[letsroll]

Take several gloves and rotate to avoid cold injuries that I incured when I did this. Rotate early and often, lesson learned the hardway!!!!

 

Route kicks ass. Oh yes I am going to say it hold....hold....

 

SUPER FUN

[builder206]

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Board=3&Number=636511&Searchpage=3&Main=47991&Words=Chair&topic=0&Search=true#Post636511

 

So Bug is the site's new search function. Cool!

[DPS]

Some things I have learned from 12 winter ascents of Chair Peak:

 

-Don't go if avalanche conditions are bad.

 

-The NE Buttress is often in decent shape when the North Face isn't

 

-Bring a little of everything in terms of a rack (a few screws, pins, nuts, cams and a couple of pickets)

 

-There are two possible gulleys that lead to the col with the fixed rappel anchor. The gulley just below the summit pyramid is a little harder to down climb than the gulley that is farther NE.

 

-Get an early start to beat the crowds and avoid descending in the dark.

[Bug]

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Board=3&Number=636511&Searchpage=3&Main=47991&Words=Chair&topic=0&Search=true#Post636511

 

So Bug is the site's new search function. Cool!

I am multi-functional. I also climb once in awhile and happened to have just looked at this TR for beta myself.

[XXX]

So what is chair peak lookin like right now? I know its getting cold again this week. But after all the melting that has occured, what should I expect by this weekend if I was to climb it?

 

T

[TrogdortheBurninator]

I bet that with all the moisture freezing up the snowpack it could be good to really good.

[Bug]

Like I posted in the IceCLimbing forum, By this weekend, the passes are probably going to be ice encrusted!

[XXX]

So what are we lookin at on Chair right now WI2? if even that.

[selkirk]

Probably more mixed than ice

[dbconlin]

I'd say it is likely to be harder this time of year than it will be later.

[DirtyHarry]

It could be really fun right now. I climbed it late December '05 when we had that bony snowpack, some freeze / thaw, and cold temps. Later in the season there's too much snow for it to be at all interesting.

[Reid]

Was up that way today. The vertical steps on NE buttress seemed to be in, but the snowpack on route looked a little thin, but certainly doable. Probably would involve lots of snowed up rock climbing. We bailed after talking a good long look at the route since a number of small slides were going off on the sun exposed slopes around us. Didn't get to see the N face, but I would imagine conditions would be even thinner since it has less of a melt freeze cycle without the sun exposure?

[DPS]

Three parties climbed the NE Buttress on Sunday. Lots of ice, conditions generally very good. One party climbed the first pitch on the left via a pure ice pitch. The "S" shaped gulley was mostly snow with a couple of water ice steps. The second pitch is easy snow climbing. The third pitch that climbs the top of the east face to the short water fall was mostly very good ice with excellent screw placements. The last pitch was easy snow with a couple of water ice blobs that took good screw placements. The down climb of the gulley to the col was a bit bony, we did one rappel. The traditional winter anchors at the col were out of reach so we slung a block poking out of the snow and made a 60 meter rappel which was just long enough.

[Bug]

Cool. Sorry I missed it. But now I know SharePoint Server.