Panos Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 (edited) Hey, My guide books do not say a thing about climbing this route in winter - say after October ... Of course parties have done it as early as the mid-70s. My question goes as follows: From your own experience and/or judgment, and supposing that there is a window of good weather to attempt the climb, what snow conditions may one encounter up there? Some crevasses may be covered but the snow might still be unstable ...? Do not mention the short days, that's a fact! What about the easier Success Clever without ropes or as possible descent route? If these propositions sound silly do you have something else (a big alpine) to suggest for TGiving ? All replies welcome Ibex Edited November 11, 2007 by Panos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 I would say that, in principal it would be possible, but you'd still have to have road access, unless you skied or used a sled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayB Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 The North Face of Shuksan might be worth looking into as an alternative if the snow conditions are favorable. Probably a more pleasant outing than LR this time of year for most parties, I'd imagine. You might also want to consider taking a look at Mount Hood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plexus Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 The month on the calender means less than the conditions that are present. How close can you get? How much slogging are you going to be doing? Do your research, keep tabs on what the weather has been like and what the conditions will be like up there. Keep in mind you are getting less and less daylight as I was reminded a couple of weekends ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineK Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 I've never been on the Carbon river side in winter, so I don't know about access in the winter. When I have climbed LR I've always done it via the Emmons side of the mountain. If you do the Emmons approach the road is gated just where HWY 410 reaches the turn off to Crystal Mountain. There is a snow park right there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericb Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 I'm guessing a danger of any route that involves an extensive approach on glaciers this time of year after only a couple storm cycles is partially bridged crevasses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panos Posted November 11, 2007 Author Share Posted November 11, 2007 I have exactly the same feeling! As JayB suggests I took a look at Shuksan NF. It looks a nice route, I need to check approachability. On the other hand Mount Hood seems more easily approachable but for Yocum Ridge it is probably a bit early now. Thanks for the suggestions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinegar Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 Panos, If you choose the sled option I suggest at least an 8 dog team. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
builder206 Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 at least an 8 dog team. You're trying to sandbag the poor guy because he's new around here. Panos, this isn't Alaska. Around here a 4-dog team is fine. There are outfitters in Eatonville and Black Diamond who can set you up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 I tried Rainier over Thanksgiving weekend once. We went up to Muir and attempted the standard route. We got up to Ingraham Flats on a scouting walk the day we headed up to Muir, but the next day the weather really sucked and we ended up bailing. It was pretty cool to be high up on the mountain that time of year and I still count that trip as one of my more memorable trips on the mountain. I think you'd have a real sense of being in the wild over there in the Carbon Glacier cirque this time of year but I wouldn't count on a successful climb and certainly not if you are planning a three or even a four day trip that is schdulled in advance rather than dashing up there based on a favorable chain of weather events. Plan for unconsolidated snow, poorly bridged crevasses, and high winds even if it is not forecast to be "stormy." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 I think there's a story in Kearney's guidebook about a winter ATTEMPT on Liberty Ridge. You might read that for some perspective. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 I have exactly the same feeling! As JayB suggests I took a look at Shuksan NF. It looks a nice route, I need to check approachability. On the other hand Mount Hood seems more easily approachable but for Yocum Ridge it is probably a bit early now. Thanks for the suggestions. The approach to the NF of Shuksan si doable. You drive to the Mt. Baker Ski area and hike through a drainage. If there is enough snow, the walk in is cake. If there isn't it's a pretty good bushwhack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panos Posted November 14, 2007 Author Share Posted November 14, 2007 (edited) Surely both weather and snow conditions as well as having a strong dog team are all very important for the a successful attempt. As an alternative to the canniness we are actually considering importing two yaks from Nepal so that we can get the loads possibly up to Thumb rock. That would help! Edited November 14, 2007 by Panos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
susan Posted November 16, 2007 Share Posted November 16, 2007 Panos If the yaks come in time, can I hitch a ride on one? Susan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panos Posted November 19, 2007 Author Share Posted November 19, 2007 (edited) Forecast looks promising. Though, it was impossible to acquire visas for the yaks in such short notice. Also, sleds are banned and skis are only for those who know how to slide with them. Therefore, I guess there is no partner for Liberty Ridge, and with the Carbon glacier to be navigated over early season fresh snow, I am not between those who would go there to climb alone without even knowing the terrain. Success Cleaver is considered as an alternative. At least it does not have problematic access over tricky glaciers. In principle it is a safe line although it is likely that the snow up there has not covered yet the rocks on the ridge and the upper slopes and/or it is not packed enough (I will check with the rangers at Longmire for a visual inspection of the ridge and snowfall history: amounts and temperatures). Shuksan NF is another nice idea (thank you for the suggestion guys), especially if the weather window is shorter. Too little snow might be an issue I was told. Hopefully, it was wet snow and is already part of the face. Anyone interested ? Ibex Edited November 19, 2007 by Panos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineK Posted November 19, 2007 Share Posted November 19, 2007 Not only do you need a yak; you should insist on a Goretex yak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted November 19, 2007 Share Posted November 19, 2007 Not only do you need a yak; you should insist on a Goretex yak. I heard they are going to upgrade to stretch XCR next year. I'd wait. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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