Mowich Face Conditions

[Skatan]

Checking to see if anyone has been on that side lately? Or has climb any of the routes in Oct, wondering about approach and descent for the fall. Probably the standard just longer with potential road closures later in season.

Edited September 28, 2007 by Skatan

[mtngt]

Mowich road closes Oct 8th, Carbon only accessible by hike or bike, planning on a long walk are you?

[Fairweather]

Carbon River Road to Ipsut is closed to ALL traffic for the next couple weeks. No bikey. No walkie either. Mowich Face now? Holding a gun to your head and pulling the trigger would probably be about as safe. And the cleanup less expensive.

[mtngt]

About the Carbon road, the park's website as of 9/26 says, "GOOD NEWS! the road reopens on Saturday, September 22 at 8:00 a.m. to hikers and bicyclists", but at least we know a supply of body bags should be on hand for the attempt. skull

 

 

Edited September 27, 2007 by mtngt

[Heat]

It seems funny that the guide book says it is a October route! And I talked with the Rangers and all said the same thing! This is why I don't use site because you guys can't just give somebody some beta on a climb you have to bash them and tear them down! Is this how you get your rocks off!

 

Do you west siders even really climb or do you play with a mouse all day?

[el jefe]

heat, this website was hijacked by a bunch of knuckleheads a long time ago and has turned into a forum for cranks and malcontents. i think a lot of these people rarely if ever climb but nevertheless don't see that as an obstacle to "bashing and tearing down" or pontificating about climbing ethics, etc. some of the trip reports posted here are useful but otherwise this site is of little benefit when it comes to getting information about climbs.

[Couloir]

8ul3bT4gAXc

[ryland_moore]

Fairweather or Mntgt, have either of you even climbed the Mowich by any route that would give you all the experitise to make this call? Even if you have, have you been on the route lately, or just armchair quarterbacking it?

[Duchess]

I am very familiar with this side of the mtn, and I've watched it melt out all summer. I can honestly say that there is more exposed rock on the Mowich face now than I have ever seen before - I suppose it is possible that it could be climbed, but getting to the face would be problematic, and getting through/above the many rock bands to the good ice above would also be... well, desperate...

 

Access to the Mowich Face is pretty crappy this year...

[Heat]

I just thought it was a climbing web site for climbers to gather info etc... on climbs in are area and beyond. I also thought climbers back each other up? But everytime I come on here and ask simple honest questions I get shit about it! Do you have any good beta on the route?

[Skatan]

Wow I feel like one of the three billy goats gruff, trying to cross a bridge. Beware of trolls! I have been know to carry a gun and a body bag if needed for trolls or yard gnomes (wannabe trolls) skull just trying to get beta from fellow climbers thats all. I have been told that Oct can be a good time to give it a go. After taliking with a climbing ranger today I was told it is definately worth a shot. As for the road closures planning on going in and coming out before the closure dates, in the end its all up to Mother Nature. Even if I only get to hike in to look at the route, it beats sitting around masturbating ones ego. As climbers I feel like we need to try to help each other and share information, thats what this site is for I thought. Thanks for the info Duchess.

You never know unless you go!

 

Edited September 28, 2007 by Skatan

[mtngt]

All routes on Rainier have suffered badly this year from tons of warm temps and excessive melt. This has exposed LARGE areas above 10,0000 of black, old, glacier ice that many have reported and I've experienced as somewhat bulletproof to pro. The Mowich is melted out with large amounts of exposed 50 degree+ loose scree, rock extremely prone to fall and virtually impossible to protect and the upper section hard exposed ice. This would make climbing it an effort in becoming a human bowling project with you being the pins. Last I checked with the climbing ranger staff there had been no recorded summits of the route this season and if correct no attempts given the status since at least mid July. Add to this the road closures, extended distances of approach, trail damage, and few to no potential rescuers left this late in the season, and hence the view that it might be risky to the point of ridiculous. Try calling the climbing ranger team left there and ask directly about any other advice or updates.

[ryland_moore]

Maybe there are no reports from the Mowich side this year is because the prime time to climb it is in October? i am just saying, if you are making an opinion, state so. if you have specific beta, say so. If you are just speculating, at least back it up with why and from where your educated guess is coming from. Otherwise you are wasting everyone's time. I say go check it out. If it doesn't go or looks dangerous, then don't do it. if it looks good, attempt it.

[skykilo]

I descended the Mowich Face in July - Dan's report here:

http://www.turns-all-year.com/skiing_snowboarding/trip_reports/index.php?topic=7568.0

Definitely lots of glacier ice right now. Could make for an interesting climb. What could you possibly want to know from some desk-jockeys? Just go do it.

[Skatan]

I should have known better, last time I checked for conditions I got the old ooh ahh to scary to cold Goldy Locks BS. We went anyway and the climb was great.(Canadian Rockies Climb) Sometimes you just get to hike and look and other times it all comes together. You can't blame a guy for trying. Straight answers and good info is all I was looking for from someone who had done or been on the mowich side before. We will give it a shot why not. I'm not going to climb if its a bowling alley, and we have climb in remote areas with out rescue teams available on other mountains. I wasn't planning on being stupid but thanks for the judgement.

 

Edited September 28, 2007 by Skatan

[Off_White]

I dunno Skatan/Heat, when you end your posts with the "fuck you" symbol, maybe people just feel like flipping you shit.

 

Try contacting Mike Gauthier at MRNP for a climbing ranger conversation, he's pretty likely to have some good advice. The last report on his site is pretty old, but it's worth asking him.

 

Mowich Face - July 27th

 

The recent rain and warm weather have melted the lower third of the Mowich. This section is now 50 degree scree and patches of snow rather than the more enjoyable and consistent 50 degree snow. This rock will be very loose, very prone to rock fall, and very hard to protect. Above 10,800' the route still looks like it is still in excellent shape. The hourglass has melted out near the top, but the climbers right variation (the Direct Central Mowich) still looks great.

[Duchess]

I think when you ask for beta, you are inevitably going to get folk's opinions, and maybe they aren't the opinions you were hoping for, but...

 

I think there's a lack of reports this year because access to the Mowich Face was more difficult this year than in the past, also the mtn seemed to melt out rapidly this year. A couple of rangers tried to climb Sunset Ridge a month and a half ago from Golden Lakes and felt it was long gone. I haven't seen the N Mowich glacier up close since July, but I would anticipate that crossing it would be very difficult right now. Same goes with the S Mowich glacier, which I have found to be really broken up in July in the past. I can't imagine the forecasted snow will help at all...

 

But that being said, people have found a way to do it in the past, so go for it, just make sure to register and be safe!!

 

By the way, I think you've actually gotten a lot of good beta here, and haven't gotten torn apart nearly as much as most do...

Edited September 27, 2007 by Duchess

[Heat]

I agree, the beta has been good. Thanks I will talk to guys later.

[Skatan]

Second the good beta, as for the fu symbol just old crass skater stuff besides goes good with skatan handle.

[Off_White]

Do tell us a story when you get back, even if it's ghastly and you're unsuccessful. Everyone loves a TR, and we seriously discourage anyone from trashing them. I know I'd love to see some pics of that side of the hill from this season.

[Heat]

I will do that. I cant get in touch with Mike Gauthier, He must be having fun some where else!(good for him). Hoping to get some fresh snow mixed with rime ice to hold it all together this weekend!

[Fairweather]

It seems funny that the guide book says it is a October route! And I talked with the Rangers and all said the same thing! This is why I don't use site because you guys can't just give somebody some beta on a climb you have to bash them and tear them down! Is this how you get your rocks off!

 

Do you west siders even really climb or do you play with a mouse all day?

 

I haven't climbed Mowich Face - but I have been up several routes on Rainier over the past 28 years or so, probably spent a lot more time on the mountain than you, and I can see Mowich Face from the road just behind my house. It is bone dry, frozen mud, ash, and thermally altered paste. The hanging ice tongue above Edmunds Glacier is virtually gone - something I haven't seen before. Frankly, I don't believe any ranger at MRNP told you it was a good time to climb this route, and my comments were meant to dissuade you from going. Even if you climb it, post a brilliant trip report, and hang some fine pictures, my comments stand. It is an irresponsible endeavor at this time, IMO. You would put at risk the lives of your potential rescuers and the hearts of those who love you. I can think of at least a couple out-of-state parties that solicited beta from this site prior to their off-season departure dates - and never came back to post here again. Just please take care.

[ScaredSilly]

Hmm, well I have climbed the Mowich did it last summer June 06 and I have walked in from Carbon River to play on the Willis (March 05). And have been schlepping my carcus up the hill for over a quarter century so I might be able to offer some incite. In the past 10 years or so things seem to be melting out earlier and earlier. As such, many of the routes that could traditionally be done in the early fall are not really possible any more. For instance, the FA of Liberty Ridge was in September. When I did it some 15 plus years ago in mid June we could approach the ridge from the left side. This year in June most climbed up from far on the right side leaving themselves open to the Liberty Ice Cap. Over Memorial day in 2000 we found hard ice and sun cups on the lower Ptarmigan Ridge however we only climbed over a few feet of rock. IIRC this year folks had a lot more rock.

 

Now could it be climbed in October this year? Certainly, a couple of good snows and some good freeze thaw could bring things into shape. But the bitch is going to be getting to climb. My approach is typically from CR. The long hike is no big deal but crossing the Mowich glacier would be ugly as would be coming in from Mowich Lake, lots of cracks to deal with. Coming from the south via Edmonds perhaps similar - I have yet to get on that side of the hill so can not say much about it.

 

 

BTW I assume you saw this photo from early August:

 

From last weeks trip for turns on the russell

[pinegar]

I say go for it / check it out too. I was in the area in early July of this year. From Mowich Lake, my advise is to stay as high as reasonable on the approach, approaching as for Ptarmagin Ridge and then traversing around near the bergschrunds rather than following the lower approach from "A Climbing Guide" by Gauthier, and other sources.

 

The comments of rangers (and even people who know less) are understandable in general though, because if you have doubts and don't know the issues, discouragement is the the best advise a third party can provide. If nobody climbs, nobody gets hurt.

 

I look forward to the TR!

[treknclime]

Not sure about Mowich...likely lots of ice, rockfall, and maybe hard to move super quick like when there's hard snow. Have done Ptarmigan in September, and it was full of dinner-plating ice...but doable. Quite nice. Did an up and over from Mowich to Paradise.

 

Have been up the DC drop-down and around route a couple of times in the last two weeks...there's a good stretch of ice on it right now ...with several parties, including guides, belaying the route (up to 6 pitches; and lowering on the way down). Not many independent climbers on the route these days.

 

Be sure to post a TR to let us know what you find. Could be an interesting and fun adventure.