micro cams...

[RedMonk]

i currently have as small as the blue metolius TCU and am looking into getting smaller cams...i have used and looked at getting aliens...but i have also looked at the new zero cams from wild country...are they out yet and if so have any of you used them? thanks in advance...

[Lambone]

Zero-cams are out, I saw them in the Yosemite shop...but I'm not sure where to get them around here. They look like the shiznit.

[RedMonk]

yah i'm definitely interested...thanks 'bone

[Peter_Puget]

Just opened that Zero Friend from Shoreline (size Z3) and here is my intial impression. I bought the Z3 because it is approximately the same size as the 00 Metolius TCU. (00 TCU is in my right hand; Z3 in the left as I juggle and type) Z3 appears lighter and smaller. The Z3 is so much smaller - I am talking cam width while retracted -that I do not belive that both published ranges can be accurate - somebody is fibbing. Not having the soldered axle ends appears to give the Z3 much more flexibilty in placement. Often I seem to find that the axle end screwed up placements with 00 and 0 size TCUs. Zero Friend much more flexible than TCU esp up near the cams. Z3 is virtually the same width as the 00. Trigger bar is plastic. Z3 is about 3/4 inch longer than 00 TCU. Published strength - 00 TCU: 4.0 KN, Z3:6.0KN.

 

Now I need to go field test this little guy.

 

PP

[Lambone]

Yeah, let us know Pete.

 

The TCU's and Zero's are two totaly different cams, can't really compare the two. I'd like to compare the Zeros with Aliens. If WC makes an offset Zero I'll break out my wallet.

[Ade]

Aliens... the dogs bollocks. Just don't get any grit in them, they don't like it. I imagine any small cam has the same problem, too many moving parts too close together.

[Guest]

Nelson's shop has the WC Zeros. Peered through the window at them, right past the sign that said "by appointment only". And it was a weekday too

Might be a good place to check'em out in hand if you call ahead to be sure the shop's open

[Alex]

I have 00 TCU and aliens. I am pretty partial to aliens - I have taken a long leader fall on the blue alien and there was never an issue. It seems like every climb I do I place blue, green, and yellow aliens. Awesome. I dont place the 00 TCU nearly as often, but sometimes it comes in handy

[RedMonk]

soo peter...size wise.....which WC zero compares with the blue TCU? cuase currently that is my smallest cam....thanks

[Peter_Puget]

Z5 is the closest approximation to the blue TCU(assuming blue TCU is #1) But honestly the published size ranges seems a bit bogus to be when I am looking at different cams side by side.

[Dru]

Aliens vs. Zero Cams

 

flexibility - Zerocam slightly higher flexibility as it flexes all the way to the head.

width (side to side) same size Zerocam slightly narrower

safety - Zerocam has cam stop

cost - ZeroCam is cheaper at MEC.

strength - same size ZeroCam lists out slightly higher.

 

Thats ZeroCam over Alien 5-0..........

 

Of course, MEC got their first shipment in - FOUR WHOLE ZEROCAMS FOR THE VANCOUVER STORE!!! And they sold 2 of them by Sunday.

[Peter_Puget]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Dru:

Aliens vs. Zero Cams

 

flexibility - Zerocam slightly higher flexibility as it flexes all the way to the head.

width (side to side) same size Zerocam slightly narrower

safety - Zerocam has cam stop

cost - ZeroCam is cheaper at MEC.

strength - same size ZeroCam lists out slightly higher.

 

Thats ZeroCam over Alien 5-0..........

 

Of course, MEC got their first shipment in - FOUR WHOLE ZEROCAMS FOR THE VANCOUVER STORE!!! And they sold 2 of them by Sunday.

---

This morning while fondling a zero I was struck by how weak the cam stops were. I wonder if they will deform easily and prove to be a pain.

 

[ 08-20-2002, 09:02 AM: Message edited by: Peter Puget ]

[DPS]

Belaying Alex on his multiple big whippers onto small Aliens convinced me they were the shit. That and they work very well for aid routes, especially the offset ones in pins scars.

[Dru]

quote:

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Originally posted by danielpatricksmith:

Belaying Alex on his multiple big whippers onto small Aliens convinced me they were the shit. That and they work very well for aid routes, especially the offset ones in pins scars.

---

Ya but I betcha ZeroCams work BETTER

[fleblebleb]

Nelson has (or had) the zeros... aliens too... they're closed Sun/Mon, open by appointment only Tue, open all day Wed-Sat.

 

I don't know how often I've gone up there right after a climbing trip because there was this thing I really should have had on the trip, only to remember too late that they're closed. Those funky hours have saved me a lot of $$

 

[ 08-20-2002, 09:54 AM: Message edited by: fleblebleb ]

[Peter_Puget]

With the caveat that I have not seen the Z2 and Z1 sizes I would think that they do not replace ball nuts.

[thelawgoddess]

quote:

---

Originally posted by fleblebleb:

Nelson has (or had) the zeros... aliens too...

---

there are a few left. not for long, though, and it might be next year before the store gets more.

[jhamaker]

I am very fond of the two smallest lowe-ball or sliders or what ever they are called. I don't use them often, but when I do, there is really nothing else I would trust. Rumor has it that if you fall on them they set up permanently.

 

I used them to good effect on the N face of Vesper last Sat.