DRep Posted August 16, 2007 Posted August 16, 2007 (edited) Trip: Prusik Peak - burgner stanley Date: 8/13/2007 Trip Report: AHHHH, what a trip. Jesse and I leave Monroe @ 5:30 on Monday morning for an attempt to attain the enchantment permit. 75 MPH over the pass gets us to the ranger station in leavenworth. 5 other parties had the same idea as us. We pull up and get the F**K off look from everyone there. Low and behold the ranger walks out. you can just feel the anticipation, hearts racing, andrenaline flowing. I throw my name in the hat and waaahhhhbaaaammmm, first one called, the mountain gods had an in for me. we took off to the trail head and away we go for three wonderful days!!! or so we thought? The hike in from the snow creek parking lot is absolutely beautiful and just gets better the higher you go. We reach lake vivian at about 3 and make camp, study the route, take the classic gnome tarn prusik pic, eat dinner and crash out. we get on the route at about 6:30. I start out on lead up the nice hand crack on the left of the chimney (awesome) and ended up leading all but the final pitch. I was in utter shock as to the quality of the route and it exceeded my expectations. The chockstone pitch was so fun. Then disaster struck; I was leading off above the chockstone and just before I got into that bastard of a chimney my foot came off (I don't know why) and I took a 15 footer and hit a ledge rolling my ankle. Jesse lowered me down, where we discussed retreat, My foot hurt pretty bad and i didn't have full range of motion anymore, stuffing it sideways in a crack was out of the question. I zealously wanted the summit and was not going down, so against Jesse's recomendation that we go down, I said "climbing" and started up the chimney (I hate that thing). I reached the top and told Jesse he had to lead the final pitch, He was psyched to do it and I was psyched not to lead it in my condition. Jesse summited and realized that he dropped his belay device somewhere? (thank God for the Munter hitch). we reached the summit and looked out over a glorious landscape, ate lunch, chilled for a bit and then rapped down. The descent was slow and painful for me but we reached camp at about 4. After we sat in camp for a bit, I went down to the frigid lake to ice my foot. After an hour of pondering my options I ruled out search and rescue (to save the embarrassment)and went back to camp and told jesse that we needed to leave tonight because I would not be able to walk in the morning. I taped it up with all our remaining tape, put my boots on, threw my 60 pound Naos on my back and started hobbling down. I cried my way to the upper snow lake and then willed myself all the way to the car @ 12:45 (Thank you Jesse). I got home at 2:30 and crashed out. I woke up to go to the doctor where i learned that i broke my foot and ankle and might need surgery!!!! So here i am sitting at the computer looking out towards Index wishing I was on the rock . Overall the goods of the trip outweighed the bad (I came away one bail biner richer). I can't wait to go back and do it again!!!!!!! Gear Notes: full rack a couple micros (larger C3s) cams .4-4 and double on #1-2 and stoppers. oh yeah you can't forget a sam splint!!!! Approach Notes: long and tiring. Edited August 16, 2007 by dave repnik Quote
goatboy Posted August 16, 2007 Posted August 16, 2007 Way to hobble out, one bail biner richer! Nice work....sorry to hear about the accident... Quote
chucK Posted August 16, 2007 Posted August 16, 2007 What?! No pic of the broken, swollen foot? ...cc.com standards are slipping Nice job getting out on your own. Hope all goes well with the treatment/recovery. Quote
olyclimber Posted August 16, 2007 Posted August 16, 2007 damn, must have been a painful hike out. way to finish it! and i agree, we need to see pics of your foot all pinned up. Quote
skykilo Posted August 16, 2007 Posted August 16, 2007 Nice pics. Sorry 'bout your foot. Good job hobbling all the way down that interminable trail. Quote
Rad Posted August 16, 2007 Posted August 16, 2007 Sorry to hear of your injury, but an x-ray image is required for verification purposes. Quote
DRep Posted August 16, 2007 Author Posted August 16, 2007 (edited) OK, I don't think I can actually get my x ray up!!! I don't have it on me and it isn't in JPEG or JPG. Edited August 16, 2007 by dave repnik Quote
OlympicMtnBoy Posted August 16, 2007 Posted August 16, 2007 Bummer on the foot, way to self rescue though, I hate that hike out even when my feet are good. I really have to climb that route. Heal fast! Quote
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