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Posted

So nelson's guidebook has suggested seasons as up to september. Has anyone actually been on this route that late and what is it like? plus, any overall opinions on the quality of said route. One more question- is the road repaired to get to that trailhead?

 

thanks in advance

 

gene pires

 

 

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Posted

Gene, I was up there a few weeks ago to try it. The road to Mowich Lake is completely open. We hiked in to the 10200 ft level from the trailhead in under 8 hours and saw that the route was out of condition with lots of rockfall and active serac fall.

 

This was during a warm spell and perhaps later on when the freezing level drops again it will get back into shape, but now the objective hazard seems to be too much.

 

Posted

I tried to do it once in August. Rockfall was continuous throught the rock pitches. We listened to it all night long then hiked out the next day.

Posted

I thought the route kicked ass. Climbed it July 8th and went left - not toward the rock. I think it could be really awesome during a cold snap after an initial snowfall or two.

 

Climb1Small.jpg

 

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Posted

you know, i think if the route froze up in september sometime it would still be doable, but this year, it was definitely out of shape by late july, but what can you expect?

 

We went off those pics that skykilo posted too and were all excited. Then we got there and it looked like this

 

P10123961.JPG

  • 1 month later...
Posted

We did the climb in early Oct a few years ago. Cold and clear conditions after a bit of wet weather in Sept. Hard ice the entire way to the upper rocks. A few tiny snow runnels in places on the lower section to give the calves a rest. Turned the rocks on the ice chute to the left, then back right onto Liberty Cap Glacier and the slog uphill in knee deep snow. Spent the night out is sacks just a tiny bit below Libery Cap. That was pretty unpleasant with high winds and low temps.

 

With the late season conditions this year it doesn't look like a good option even if the weather changed dramatically for better today.

 

But the route was incredible when we did it, much more fun than Liberty or Curtis earlier in the season and one climb I'd like to do again in similar cirumstances.

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