David Trippett Posted August 9, 2007 Posted August 9, 2007 Trip: The Adamants - Various Date: 7/23/2007 Trip Report: On the 23rd of July a friend from Squamish and myself flew into the Unicorn basin below the West Buttress of the Horn. This was my second visit to the area.....last years TR is here: LINK The primary goal of the trip was field work for my MSc and a bit o' climbering. After having to bail last year, my main climbing goal was to climb the West Buttress of the Horn, a stunning ~20 pitch route similar to the BC in the bugs. We warmed up with a quick ascent of the Gibson-Rohn route on Ironman, one of the best routes I've done anywhere. After sitting in the rain for three days we sent the Horn all free in a day, completing a difficult two pitch variation on the first tower, likely the third all-free one-day ascent of this outstanding route. There remains a lot of unclimbed rock and big objectives in the Adamants for the committed. Here's some pics, enjoy! Adamants Panorama Camp below The Horn Our variation on the Horn(a pic from last year's attempt) Headwall splitter on the first tower Shawn at the base of the second tower Summit of The Horn Iron Man High on Iron Man Bath Time! Gear Notes: Double cams to #2 + one #3 & #4 walking axe and crampons Approach Notes: CMH Chopper Quote
AlpineK Posted August 9, 2007 Posted August 9, 2007 That looks cool. I've skied near there but never climbed. Quote
Cobra_Commander Posted August 9, 2007 Posted August 9, 2007 Same deal as Feck, skied by on the way between Fairy and Great Cairn. Big stuff, and no one around. Quote
Alpinfox Posted August 9, 2007 Posted August 9, 2007 Sweet pictures and TR. Did you see Fred B. in there? Quote
David Trippett Posted August 9, 2007 Author Posted August 9, 2007 Sweet pictures and TR. Did you see Fred B. in there? We saw another party on the Ironman...we watched them until dark below the last pitch and never saw them descend....we were wondering what happened? I heard later it was Fred....I'd like to hear how it went. Quote
Alpinfox Posted August 9, 2007 Posted August 9, 2007 Well, he is back in Seattle now, so he survived. All I've heard about the trip is "SPENT A REALLY GOOD WEEK IN ADMANTS ROCK MIGHT BE BETTERE THAN EVEN THE BUGS SUPERB PLACE". Looking forward to hearing the full story. Quote
David Trippett Posted August 9, 2007 Author Posted August 9, 2007 The rock can be amazing....really amazing, but it can also be slammed shut, scary-loose and really run-out on marginal gear and hard climbing. The climbing there (at least on the west side) really starts around 5.10, perhaps with a few exceptions.....so there's not so much easy, fun stuff to do as in the Bugs. It's like the evil bastard twin of the Bugs . New routeing there requires a bolt or two, big balls or both .... The routes i've done/seen there are sandbagged and feel really committing....I can see why Fred would like it Quote
pazzo Posted August 10, 2007 Posted August 10, 2007 great pics! the rock in the 3rd pic (and others) looks amazing!! Quote
Blake Posted August 10, 2007 Posted August 10, 2007 Big-ups to yourself, David. that be some bling-blinging. Respek... Quote
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