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Posted

Seen in the gym last night: some guy top roping a 5.9 (with orange tape) gets to the ledge, yells take, reaches into his chalk bag and pulls out a chalk ball. He proceeds to "powder" a two foot by six inch wide section of ledge with chalk. I could see clouds of chalk filling the air.

 

He makes the next move and takes. Now he proceeds to powder the next two bolted on holds.

 

Now, I ask you. Is this considered "fair means"? It looks to me like the climber is trying to bring the climb down to his level, rather than trying to rise to the level of the climb. Granted, it was hot in there, but that's no excuse. He could always come back in the cool of the morning for his send.

 

Next thing you know they'll be bolting on holds...no wait, nevermind. :P

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Posted

We could have a forum - "Seen at the climbing gym last night"

 

It amazes me everytime I go! Tonight there was a training group doing sit ups galore and as many pull ups as they could. NONE of them had any technique to speak of. Cart before the horse.

 

:yoda:

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