tvashtarkatena Posted June 27, 2007 Share Posted June 27, 2007 (edited) Trip: Dumbell Mountain (Glacier Peak Wilderness - from the west Date: 6/26/2007 Trip Report: Greg Moo and I decided to take advantage of the recent 2 day stint of beautiful weather and nab a peak I’d halfheartedly attempted last October from it’s precipitous east face. It turned out to be a great alpine jaunt, particularly this time of year, when there is still continuous snow from Phelps Creek basin to just below the summit. We ascended to the notch SW of the main summit, then downclimbed steep snow to the permanent snowpatch on the mountain’s north side, then up the snowpatch to an easy summit scramble. We descended by crossing the notch immediately south of the summit, then downclimbed 4th class rock to the snowy basin below on its south side (recommended as the more straightforward route either way). Glacier Lilies, Spider Meadow Western Anemones, upper Phelps basin The peak at dawn Greg downclimbing from the notch to the permanent snowpatch on the north side of the peak Ascending the wind scoop on the permanent snowpatch Glacier Peak on the horizon from just below the summit rock Summit Cheese. Bonanza in the background ‘Speedboat’ avalanche remnant, from the summit Crossing upper Phelps Creek after the climb Gear Notes: Axe, poons, 75' 7mm rope (not used). Approach Notes: Well consolidated snow on the trail to Spider Meadow. Easy walking. Hike to end of Phelps Creek basin, pick a snow ramp, and ascend. Edited June 27, 2007 by tvashtarkatena Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted June 27, 2007 Share Posted June 27, 2007 You are officially grounded pilot!! No more alpine goodness for you for at least one month. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted June 27, 2007 Share Posted June 27, 2007 Nice job Did you find your poles? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvashtarkatena Posted June 27, 2007 Author Share Posted June 27, 2007 No, but I found an old pair of ski poles from the '70s halfway up the mountain. Weird karma. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom_Sjolseth Posted June 28, 2007 Share Posted June 28, 2007 Love the shot of the climber ascending the wind scoop. It's easy to get suckered into that E. Face... a couple of years ago we went up that way thinking it would be quicker since we were coming back via the ledge from NW Dumbell (AKA Greenwood). We ran into downward sloping ledges topped with peagravel followed by a mid fifth slab near the summit. Not recommended without a rope! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mythosgrl Posted June 28, 2007 Share Posted June 28, 2007 beautiful pics! nice work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted June 28, 2007 Share Posted June 28, 2007 is this the same dumbbell that there is a pic of some big unclimbed face on, on scurlock site? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted June 28, 2007 Share Posted June 28, 2007 Yeah, I was gonna ask. I saw a big ol somethin on it from Bonanza last year, and a photo in the beckey guide. see anythin? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvashtarkatena Posted June 28, 2007 Author Share Posted June 28, 2007 Post or PM me the photos you're talking about and I'll see if I can provide a useful comment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted June 28, 2007 Share Posted June 28, 2007 Right on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted June 28, 2007 Share Posted June 28, 2007 I'm pretty sure that face was climbed by a couple of visiting climbers from Colorado a few years ago, rotten 5.4 kind of affair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted June 28, 2007 Share Posted June 28, 2007 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvashtarkatena Posted June 28, 2007 Author Share Posted June 28, 2007 I'm pretty sure that face was climbed by a couple of visiting climbers from Colorado a few years ago, rotten 5.4 kind of affair. Rotten sounds about right for that peak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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