Favorite Guidebook Route Discription?

[cj001f]

"Hire guides and chop east through the jungle for about 8 days"

 

-describing sumaco in the "Fools climbing guide to Ecuador and Peru"

[ScottP]

"Although the wall pulsates from the passing trains, these reverberations have not yet cast off flakes. A warning is in order in regarding to expanding ones: there is a legend that a leader and belayer were thrown into the trees when a flake peeled--don't nail expanding flakes."

 

Darrington and Index Rock Climbing Guide-1976

[pink]

the "mystery route" in tim olsens portland rock climbing guide.

[pink]

the "mystery route" in tim olsens portland rock climbing guide.

[G-spotter]

The bit in the smith guide about "nauseating rock... struggle up chimney fighting off pigeons... this route is only climbed by beginners armed with racks of hexes and triple-length slings"

[ivan]

mt triumph as described in nelson's book:

 

"alone, aloof, dramatic"

[shapp]

9. SHOT IN THE DARK 5.10c/d X

From rattle and slime on the "flying camel move"

 

Duane Constantino, Dave Tower, Marvin Wetzel 1979

After the first ascent of this route, Marvin told Duane that he'd seen a cop show the

previous evening that displayed 4’ shafts of fire coming from pistols fired at night. Marv

suggested this was total Hollywood to which Duane replied "Hollywood, hell!" as he

pulled a large caliber pistol from his pack and fired it in the general vicinity of this route.

In those days, you could see the rock from the parking area and there was indeed a big

flash of brilliant orange, white and red flame! Pitch One: Begin in a small, arching crack

near the cedars, then run it out a bit past a hidden bolt to a bolt anchor beneath the first

overhang. Pitch Two: Leave the belay and move up past a hole and more 5.10 climbing

to pass the second roof, a couple more bolts and the second anchor. Pitch Three: Climb

over this difficult roof, perhaps using what Duane called his "Flying Camel” move. Work

up continuously difficult rock and sparse, old bolts to the final anchors. Probably original

[tanstaafl]

Some route or other in Vedauwoo:

 

"Bomb-bay chimney. Tape your belly. Protection: none. Landing: jumbled boulders."

[Weekend_Climberz]

I still like the story of "Cowgirls get the blues" or also known as "Children of the Sun". Goes something like this:

 

While driving to the top of the route the FA's came across a lonely lady who had run her truck off the road. After picking her up she described how she had snuck away from her sleeping husband and gone out to a local bar. After partying with a couple the patrons all night long, in her haste to get back to her still sleeping husband, she had put her cowboy boots on backwards. While speeding down the road in her truck she attempted switching the boots to the right feet, ending up in the ditch.

 

Chicks, sheeesh

[catbirdseat]

Some route or other in Vedauwoo:

 

"Bomb-bay chimney. Tape your belly. Protection: none. Landing: jumbled boulders."

That really makes me want to climb that route. Who could resist? I mean, those jumbled boulders, that's the kicker.