tradclimbguy Posted June 25, 2007 Posted June 25, 2007 Assuming it was the same moron who chopped JG their level of stupidity seems to be continually increasing. I suspect before long they'll either die because they forget to breath or will be run over by a train as it passes by the crag while they lay out sunning themselves on the tracks midweek after another good anchor chopping. This f@cking dumb sh&t should just be banned from climbing or interacting with others altogether. That anchors will just be replaced but with better hardware this time round and whatever their point was will be lost on the nice new hardware that will make up yet another mid point anchor. If they want to make a statement there are a bunch of other things they could do to promote hard climbing, good style, better ethics or any number of positive things. Unfortunately they are such wusses they will never show their face and instead do nothing more than stir the pot and guarantee more anchors be put up. I see this causing not fewer mid anchors but more because we could probably use a few more out there. I'd like one half way up City Park for a short aid pitch if I feel like it and the final moves on Godzilla are way hard so toss in another one their before the double hand cracks start would be nice. I could also see another anchor or two easily on Princely, why don't we break up that awful traverse with another anchor and eliminate rope drag... Thank you and have a nice day Quote
Bug Posted June 25, 2007 Posted June 25, 2007 Nice troll. It will cost more to put the new hardware up than it will to take it down. I feel pretty nuetral about this whole bolt-chopping thing at Index but it seems clear to me that the anchors being chopped are being selected carefully. That does not mean it is totally "OK" but to blast away with pure rhetoric makes the blaster look uninformed. Quote
Jens Posted June 25, 2007 Posted June 25, 2007 So if it has been established that this station was in place before 1980 (put it during the 70's). Again, quite possibly older than the person that chopped it. --------------------------- The lower town wall crag is kind of weird. I've never seen so much ego, wiring of routes, attitude, and sandbagging of any other individual Washington cliff. Many folks seem to only climb at this cliff (albeit they clmb quite hard) and feel fiercely territorial of this small section of index. ------------------- Leave history as is and have fun climbing. Quote
RuMR Posted June 25, 2007 Posted June 25, 2007 The first time I rope-solo aided Iron Horse I was unable to figure out how to get past the blankness above the fixed pins, and had to resort to aiding rightwards to that anchor. I was a n00b and out of my depth. I didn't realize I could have just down-aided. In that respect, that anchor was vital because it let me escape my own folly and learn how to be a better climber without dying or getting hurt, and without committing to going up to the next anchors on wide gear or mandatory free climbing. with this logic, bolt everything in sight and at 2 foot intervals... Quote
RuMR Posted June 25, 2007 Posted June 25, 2007 I too have used the midpoint anchor during aiding, if for nothing else, to practice belay changeovers for soloing, or to bail off in foul weather. At the very least, these anchors may help to keep newer aid climbers off of other more popular free climbs. Iron Horse is a very accessible aid route that is not often free climbed. Maybe without the anchor, those same climbers will not be as keen to jump on it, knowing they can bail partway if need be. It just seems like it wasn't really that benefitial to remove it. It's not like people were often using that anchor and tying up Sagitarious. Sigh. iron horse not often freeclimbed?? WTF are you talking about???? Quote
catbirdseat Posted June 25, 2007 Posted June 25, 2007 The lower town wall crag is kind of weird. I've never seen so much ego, wiring of routes, attitude, and sandbagging of any other individual Washington cliff. Many folks seem to only climb at this cliff (albeit they clmb quite hard) and feel fiercely territorial of this small section of index. I think some of the worst behavior in climbers comes from the "territorial imperative". This is seldom seen in climbers who don't get attached to a single crag. Quote
Peter_Puget Posted June 25, 2007 Posted June 25, 2007 Many folks seem to only climb at this cliff (albeit they clmb quite hard) and feel fiercely territorial of this small section of index. ------------------- Leave history as is and have fun climbing. It is hard to leave an oasis and journey across a wasteland...... Make your own history! The best is yet to come. Quote
catbirdseat Posted June 25, 2007 Posted June 25, 2007 It appears that that statement must have hit pretty close to home. Quote
Peter_Puget Posted June 25, 2007 Posted June 25, 2007 Actually I haven't climbed on the LW in 2 years......but I think I might have to get back there. Quote
tradclimbguy Posted June 25, 2007 Posted June 25, 2007 Nice troll. It will cost more to put the new hardware up than it will to take it down. I feel pretty nuetral about this whole bolt-chopping thing at Index but it seems clear to me that the anchors being chopped are being selected carefully. That does not mean it is totally "OK" but to blast away with pure rhetoric makes the blaster look uninformed. No troll. You got a drill and the time to go fix it let me know and I'll send you the money or the hangars. I got more than enough to fund any and all intermediate anchors anybody feels like. Seems like just as good a "point" made as whomever chopped them. "Carefully selected", do we have THE chopper in our midst??? So fuck your rhetoric and fuck you, theres your nice day, oh and those are my "carefully selected" words just for you I say again (which I have said before), you wanna make a point at Index go take a big fucking brush and scrub something. Clean up a classic, replace crappy existing hardware, do some trail maintenance. Chopping bolts anonymously is just cowardly and makes no point to anyone. Quote
TimL Posted June 25, 2007 Posted June 25, 2007 (edited) Dave, that anchor was completely bogus. This wasn't an issue of trying to make the washington all arounder climb "harder". It was simply extra hardware that was didn't need to be there. I believe the remover of those anchors didn't fill in his holes though, which is the only negative thing I can see in this situation. I predict this thread will reach epic size. Too bad. Does not the route go from 5.9 at that point to 5.10b? 5.9 Climbers no longer can do the route. To be honest, I think the lower 5.9 part of Sagitarious is harder than the upper part. The 5.10, which might be a little soft, is perfectly protectable. To me the problem is some idiot chopping without asking an opinion rather than the actual anchor. You can't just go around doing that shit. Not sure if I know this person or not, but it sounds like he's not thinking. This anchor is really not needed and is an eyesore. On Sag alone, you have three anchors in 30 meters. I think leaving two will be fine. Edited June 25, 2007 by TimL Quote
TimL Posted June 25, 2007 Posted June 25, 2007 (edited) I too have used the midpoint anchor during aiding, if for nothing else, to practice belay changeovers for soloing, or to bail off in foul weather. At the very least, these anchors may help to keep newer aid climbers off of other more popular free climbs. Iron Horse is a very accessible aid route that is not often free climbed. Maybe without the anchor, those same climbers will not be as keen to jump on it, knowing they can bail partway if need be. It just seems like it wasn't really that benefitial to remove it. It's not like people were often using that anchor and tying up Sagitarious. Sigh. Bullshit its not often free climbed. Besides, I think there are two solid pins you can lower off of if you get in trouble. Edited June 27, 2007 by TimL Quote
HeadSpace Posted June 25, 2007 Posted June 25, 2007 Hey Tim, remember our first foray on Sag? Hope your well. I'm still recovering from this.Motorcycle related. -Bruce Quote
Jens Posted June 26, 2007 Posted June 26, 2007 Hey Tim, remember our first foray on Sag? Hope your well. I'm still recovering from this.Motorcycle related. -Bruce Man that's me right now! Quote
Doug T Posted June 26, 2007 Posted June 26, 2007 Were the anchors chopped or the hangers/nuts just stolen? Doug T Quote
Baltoro Posted June 26, 2007 Posted June 26, 2007 I too have used the midpoint anchor during aiding, if for nothing else, to practice belay changeovers for soloing, or to bail off in foul weather. At the very least, these anchors may help to keep newer aid climbers off of other more popular free climbs. Iron Horse is a very accessible aid route that is not often free climbed. Maybe without the anchor, those same climbers will not be as keen to jump on it, knowing they can bail partway if need be. It just seems like it wasn't really that benefitial to remove it. It's not like people were often using that anchor and tying up Sagitarious. Sigh. Bullshit its not often free climbed. Come out of your hole for a little light. Besides, I think there are two solid pins you can lower off of if you get in trouble. It always amazes me how quickly people get excited when things are anonymous. I'm sure we'd be perfectly friendly if we met in person. I've spent a fair amount of time at Index here and there, and from my personal experience, I've not often seen people on Iron Horse. Sag and JG, yes. Godzilla and Thin Fingers, most certainly. Princely and Rogers Corner; all the time. But I've not seen a whole lot of people free climbing on Iron Horse. You've probably spent much more time out there than I have and have seen others free climbing Iron Horse and perhaps have frequented it yourself. But like I said, I haven't. The thread has more or less nothing to do with the frequency of free climbing done on Iron Horse so I'll "crawl back into my hole" and return to my darkness, the conversation regarding anchor chopping can continue with out my "unenlightened" opinions and you can continue being the really nice guy that you clearly are. As for the two pins to lower off of, that was someone else's comment that they bailed onto this anchor because they couldn't firgure out the Iron Horse aid crux. I agree that you can lower off of the two pins and the anchor is most definitely not essential. Whether or not the anchor was relevant isn't the conversation we should be having after the fact. It's what should have been asked before the chopping. Like the anchor or not, you can't be excited about a person or persons going around and making decisions like these that effect the whole community without having a dialogue about it beforehand. Enjoy. Quote
Gary_Yngve Posted June 28, 2007 Posted June 28, 2007 The intermediate anchor is still gone as of today. There's also a project bolt (w/ red ribbon) as well as a fixed line to the left of Iron Horse. Quote
TimL Posted June 28, 2007 Posted June 28, 2007 New project bolt? Amandela is just to the right of Iron Horse. It is bolted...but project bolt? Quote
backcountrydog Posted June 28, 2007 Posted June 28, 2007 amandla is just to the left of iron horse i think you meant to say tim. there is a small red sling on the 6th bolt of numbah ten that an aid climber used to bail off of last week. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.