layton Posted July 8, 2007 Posted July 8, 2007 Wow, I didn't read what you wrote, but you're a very pretty dude. Quote
kevbone Posted July 8, 2007 Posted July 8, 2007 At least try and establish every 2 sets of anchors within 200' of each other so that double rope rappels get one down from anchor to anchor. Holy crap do I agree.....I just climbed IB today and they forgot an anchor.....of all crazy things to forget. Oh and by the way.....it is not chopped. Quote
Buckaroo Posted July 20, 2007 Posted July 20, 2007 Ooh, one more, I just can't help myself. MY GOD!? This is for real? I thought it was a really good photoshop. damn Quote
high_on_rock Posted July 20, 2007 Posted July 20, 2007 I would love to bring my kids to that outdoor/climbing wall. cool. Quote
billcoe Posted January 15, 2008 Posted January 15, 2008 I read all this again, every single post, an have not changed my mind a bit. It only serves to remind me to hold my own cards closer to my vest. Regards to all Bill Quote
Jens Posted January 16, 2008 Posted January 16, 2008 I read all this again, every single post, an have not changed my mind a bit. It only serves to remind me to hold my own cards closer to my vest. Regards to all Bill Well spoken. Quote
JosephH Posted January 16, 2008 Posted January 16, 2008 Please, do feel free to talk shit about me long before and long after I'm dead. Oops wait - too late (or is that too soon...)! Proceed. Quote
pink Posted January 16, 2008 Posted January 16, 2008 well, it just won'tbe the same now that i have your permission Quote
mimi Posted January 16, 2008 Posted January 16, 2008 Joseph, It doesn't matter who you are, if you haven't actually been on the line, it's all [dubious] hearsay. Quote
pink Posted January 16, 2008 Posted January 16, 2008 Joseph, It doesn't matter who you are, if you haven't actually been on the line, it's all [dubious] hearsay. this is your first post? JgWQ1erBnMo Quote
billcoe Posted January 16, 2008 Posted January 16, 2008 Please, do feel free to talk shit about me long before and long after I'm dead. Oops wait - too late (or is that too soon...)! Proceed. I'm blaming Doug for this thread revival, he linked it in Rudys Raindawg taunting thread. Unintentional trainwrecking it's called:-) Joseph, It doesn't matter who you are, if you haven't actually been on the line, it's all [dubious] hearsay. Huh? Mimi, Kevin already pitched that softball 5-6 pages ago and it was knocked out of the park. There was also an earlier reference to "I don't have to try unprotected, lubricated Gay Anal sex to know I don't like it, but I can still comment on how mess up it is" or something like that. I guess from my viewpoint, I look at some great lines that have bolts. All of the routes up El Cap and Monkey Face for instance, and I liked climbing all the ones I've been on. Even (maybe especially) Dean Caldwell's bolt ladder. Had some petty bureaucrat come over while they were doing that or any of those lines, and stopped all activity, then all of us would be the poorer for it. Monkey Face, for instance, would not have a single route to the summit. I understand striving and endeavoring to climb in good style, and to discuss the definition of what that is, but I don't see it as an absolute rule that all must follow everywhere we go. Different areas have different ethics and norms and people rarely butt heads with the group ethic which has taken years to evolve at that specific area. I understand rap bolting and using a drill to bolt as well. If you HAVE to put a bolt in, should it not be the best you can do? I agree that most people coming out of gyms are short changed on the mental development that most of us went through, and I am not advocating that gym mentality become the dominant ethic. I think routes done bold should be left that way, and routes done with bolts should be left that way, unless a huge percentage of LOCALS, ie those who climb in that area 99% of the time, disagree. Quote
denalidave Posted January 16, 2008 Posted January 16, 2008 Well said Bill. I've only me a few bolts that I did not like. Quote
kevbone Posted January 16, 2008 Posted January 16, 2008 Huh? Mimi, Kevin already pitched that softball 5-6 pages ago and it was knocked out of the park. I so disagree. That statement or “until you have been on the route you are taking out your ass” is correct. To all those disbelievers……I could not stand “not knowing”….so I sucked it up and went and climbed the route. Now I have first hand knowledge of what the discussion is. This is a great route. I respect the FFA team a great deal. I have put up about 20 climbs in my life…..all single pitch climbs……I cant imagine the work that went into 24 pitches….. 4 star route. I say 4 star (not five) because they did forget one anchor. Quote
mimi Posted January 16, 2008 Posted January 16, 2008 Bill - Are you Joseph's official mouthpiece? My point is simply that people arrive at stone with different vision, experience, perceptions, and approaches. You might disagree with them but responding with gross disrespect after only inferring what's going on without knowing the facts is less than standup. Quote
counterfeitfake Posted January 16, 2008 Posted January 16, 2008 Bolts rule. They keep you from falling off mountains. Quote
billcoe Posted January 16, 2008 Posted January 16, 2008 Huh? Mimi, Kevin already pitched that softball 5-6 pages ago and it was knocked out of the park. Of course you can argue it either way. Robbins thought he knew about Dawn Wall too until he jumped on it with a chisel. I meant that this very point had been discussed, and well flushed out earlier in the thread...both points of view can be valid IMO. It probably boils down to ones pre-conceived conceptions and notions of what is correct or not correct pre-this thread discussion really are. Quote
billcoe Posted January 16, 2008 Posted January 16, 2008 Bill - Are you Joseph's official mouthpiece? My point is simply that people arrive at stone with different vision, experience, perceptions, and approaches. You might disagree with them but responding with gross disrespect after only inferring what's going on without knowing the facts is less than standup. Ouch...outted. Yes, yes I am Joseph's official mouthpiece, and my commission check is overdue too. Did the last 7 pages give me away? PS, speaking of chisels - Russ Walling sold me 2 chisels recently too:-) These things have machined groves and wire rope swaged onto it in case anyone wants any of this kind of stuff for chipping any new routes they are working on.....www.fishproducts.com. Cept he's out climbing right now, so you'll have to wait. Quote
JosephH Posted January 16, 2008 Posted January 16, 2008 Joseph, It doesn't matter who you are, if you haven't actually been on the line, it's all [dubious] hearsay. Mimi dear, the distinction between IB and WoS, aside from both involving a steaming pile of shit, is that the facts about WoS were clearly distorted and the "chipping" and 'hole/bolt' count in question can only be verified by those who have "been on the line" [with a magnifying visor] whereas with IB there are no such facts in contention and there is no need whatsoever to have "been on the line" to know what it's all about. If you want to honestly and intelligently discuss the technical reality of WoS in stone you have to either get on it or rely on the commentary of someone who has been. That's quite different from IB where the bolt count and rock quality have been more than adequately reported. On the otherhand, you and others can legitimately discuss the question of whether the WoS or IB slabs should ever have been climbed without having "been on the line". Ditto on the style, ethics, and ensuing cultural conflicts. Quote
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