Suggestions for Yos.

[selkirk]

So this coming weekend I'm going down to a wedding being held in Yosemite, and we'll be staying at a hotel just outside the park entrance (30 minutes maybe?). We'll have at least 1 full day on Saturday to do as we please, and maybe a 1/2 day on Sunday before we fly back out of Sacramento (Flight out is around 8:00 so I'm thinking we should be leaving the park around 1:00 or so.)

 

So what are peoples recommendations for stuff to do? Single pitch cragging suggestions, good hiking, moderate to easy multipitch? Could certainly bring a small to medium rack, or just quick draws and rope, or even leave it all at home and just bring day hiking stuff.

Thanks in advance!

Cheers

 

[Rad]

Sounds like a great trip. Here are a few ideas for moderate climbs:

 

NE Buttress higher Cathedral (not the spire). If you like crakcs this is a good one. 5.9 IV (Said by many to be the best grade IV in the valley). Plan on a full day for this. Longish approach and descent. Standard rack reqd. Several variations on the last pitches can cause confusion. pm if questions.

 

Braille Book. 5.8 III. About the same approach and descent as above but the climb is a bit shorter and easier. Pro to 3".

 

Central Pillar of Frenzy. Middle Cathedral. 5.9 II/III Very short approach, can be quite popular. Climb as high as you like and rap the route (people often rap after 5 pitches)(this is still on my to do list).

 

E Buttress of Middle Cathedral. 5.10something. Popular, short approach. This is still on my list.

 

Nutcracker 5.8 II. Manure pile buttress. Very popoular but still fun. Short approach. Many start variations allow you to leapfrog past slow parties, but there is a bottleneck around the crux pitch.

 

Munginella and 6ish are easy (5.4-5.6) multipitch routes on the manure pile buttress left of nutcracker. I haven't been on them.

 

Snake Dike on half dome. 5.7. I would avoid against selecting this climb because the approach is VERY long, likely will have snow, and the cables on half dome will probably still be down.

 

Royal Arches. 5.6. III Good intro for newbies but I thought the climbing was not that interesting. The moves off the ground behind the hotel include the most polished, unprotected, '5.6' chimney you'll ever ascend.

 

Crest Jewel on North Dome is excellent. 5.10a friction. ONLY QUICKDRAWS REQD! It looks like a lot of pitches but it goes quite quickly. Be prepared for long runouts. Best to approach from the Tuolumne road. Can also be approached via Royal Arches and then down the North Dome gully.

 

There's lots, lots more but that should give you some ideas.

 

Reed's Yosemite Select is a good guide to use/borrow.

 

Have a great trip! (got any room in your luggage?)

[AlpineK]

Sounds like a great trip. Here are a few ideas for moderate climbs:

 

NE Buttress higher Cathedral (not the spire). If you like crakcs this is a good one. 5.9 IV (Said by many to be the best grade IV in the valley). Plan on a full day for this. Longish approach and descent. Standard rack reqd. Several variations on the last pitches can cause confusion. pm if questions.

 

Braille Book. 5.8 III. About the same approach and descent as above but the climb is a bit shorter and easier. Pro to 3".

 

Central Pillar of Frenzy. Middle Cathedral. 5.9 II/III Very short approach, can be quite popular. Climb as high as you like and rap the route (people often rap after 5 pitches)(this is still on my to do list).

 

E Buttress of Middle Cathedral. 5.10something. Popular, short approach. This is still on my list.

 

Nutcracker 5.8 II. Manure pile buttress. Very popoular but still fun. Short approach. Many start variations allow you to leapfrog past slow parties, but there is a bottleneck around the crux pitch.

 

Munginella and 6ish are easy (5.4-5.6) multipitch routes on the manure pile buttress left of nutcracker. I haven't been on them.

 

Snake Dike on half dome. 5.7. I would avoid against selecting this climb because the approach is VERY long, likely will have snow, and the cables on half dome will probably still be down.

 

Royal Arches. 5.6. III Good intro for newbies but I thought the climbing was not that interesting. The moves off the ground behind the hotel include the most polished, unprotected, '5.6' chimney you'll ever ascend.

 

Crest Jewel on North Dome is excellent. 5.10a friction. ONLY QUICKDRAWS REQD! It looks like a lot of pitches but it goes quite quickly. Be prepared for long runouts. Best to approach from the Tuolumne road. Can also be approached via Royal Arches and then down the North Dome gully.

 

 

I've done all the routes I didn't strike through and they're all great routes (though I'm sure those routes are good too). You'll have fun with those and there are a lot of other routes out there.

 

I did the E Butt of El Cap and that's a good one too. It's kind of a big wall without really being a big wall. There are good views of folks doing the real walls.

Edited May 14, 2007 by AlpineK

[bigwallben]

I'm going to say Snake Dike if you have not climbed in the great ditch before. Great hike, views, climbing...just know that weekends are the worst time to be climbing anything 5.10 and below, and of average or high quality.

 

If you want an adventure and solace...perhaps try arrowhead arete.

[Peter_Puget]

With only one full day I would say forget Snake Dike.

 

I would say if you want quantity and quality go do East Buttress of Middle (the .10 is a bolt ladder) or Central Pillar. Central Pillar is a distinct second choice.

 

Forget Manure Pile Buttress. The East Buttress of El Cap may get water if breezy.

 

 

Obscure recommendation: The Sermon on Pulpit Rock may not be easy to get to cross the river.

 

I would spend my time esp on day two when you want to leave early at one of the following:

 

Reed’s Pinnacle:

Reed Direct .10

Stone Groove .10b

Lunatic Fringe .10c

 

Arch Rock:

Axis/Blotto 5.10d

Gripper .10b

Mid Term .10a

English Breakfast Crack .10c

New Dimensions (easy for .11) Can do the first two pitches and Bail

 

Cookie:

Nabisco Wall – Many variations Possible under 5.11

Catchy/Catchy Corner - .10/.10+

Outer Limits 5.10a/b

 

Edited May 14, 2007 by Peter_Puget

[Peter_Puget]

In general, Yos pitches are longer and more continuous than in WA. (Wa Pass is nothing like Yos) As a general rule you will have to run it out more. Bring a wide range of pieces and do not believe the “Nuts to 3.5” comment on many routes. I usually bring a few large pieces despite notation.

[willstrickland]

Reeds will be hot, getting full sun, ditto the Cookie until late afternoon. If you do go to Reeds, drop down to Five and Dime cliff afterwards (same parking). The namesake pitch on that crag is fantastic.

 

Being the weekend, I'd skip the sure to be crowded Reeds/Cookie stuff and go to the Finger Lickin' area for cragging from .10a to .11c. Jawbone, Snatch Power, Finger Lickin', Pinky Paralasis are all nice.

 

If you don't mind a long approach, Arrowhead Arete is a fun day.

 

East Butt of El Cap is wet on P7 and P8 right now. Could be dry by then.

 

 

[Peter_Puget]

Will -

 

His hardest gear climb is .11a. In his position I would want to go to where there are plenty of alternatives. Pinky is a great climb but relative isolated. Five and Dime is a great cliff but If I had one morning I would use it as a second choice if he can't get on something at Reeds.

 

The more I think about it Arch rules.

 

Easty Buttress of Cathedral can be really crowded - get an Alpine start.

 

 

[RuMR]

I second the cookie...lotta cool stuff on that cliff...

 

Pat and Jack's got some ok stuff...

 

cragging on the base of el cap is really good too...

 

Peter is spot on about throwing in large stuff despite the topo's...valley guys don't need offwidth and consider them "self protecting" so unless you've got it going on for OW throw some big stuff in...

[RuMR]

oh...and peter...shame on you for recommending arch rock...it will be nuclear hot down there...

[Peter_Puget]

EGads you guys. He is leaving at lunch time! I'll be there next weekend and let you know how hot it is. (Should be in the 80s)If it is too hot he could consider Vanishing Point, Manana and P1 of Yin Yang are all fun one pitch climbs on the Shady side. MAybe the Thief near Bridalveil.

 

Moby Dick & Sacherer are good at the base of El Cap.

[Rad]

As PP suggests, Yos ratings often feel stiff for first-timers.

I think the reason is due to several factors:

1 - you need to be tuned into jamming cracks (all sizes) without access to face holds. Few WA areas will prepare you.

2 - Yosemite pitches, particularly classics, are often very sustained. Example: NE buttress higher cathedral has 300ft of continuous 5.9 moves.

3 - Most of the classic moderates were put up in an era when 5.9 was thought to be the top end of difficulty. Thus, there are some tough 5.9s out there because people thought if it would go free then it couldn't be 5.10.

4 - Classics see a lot of traffic, which leads to polishing of key holds. Royal arches is the best example I know.

[willstrickland]

Base of El Cap has been seeing tons of traffic on weekends. That said, p1 of Salathe at .10c is great, Moby Dick center .10a is good (take multiple 3.5" pieces), Sacherer Cracker is very nice, but I think a horrendous sandbag at .10a (and I don't mean because of the OW at the top).

 

Pinky isn't really isolated, there are starred .10a, .10c, .10d pitches right there that very nice, Arch and Generator are only about a mile away.

 

Super Slide is a good easier multipitch right by Serenity.

 

Seems like everyone I see here is walking around with the Supertopo free climbs book, so maybe avoid most of that stuff. Kor Beck is probably getting done more times in a week now that in previous years because of that book...ditto the Swan Slab Aid route.

 

I'll be here until Oct as one of the Camp 4 Campground Hosts. Drop by and say hello.

[AlpineK]

Moby Dick center is a great route. You can climb it and get scared looking at MD right.

[RuMR]

DOOD AHAB IS SO FRICKIN' COOL!!!

[AlpineK]

I want to do it. I'm sure it is cool, but I'm a big pussy.

[carolyn]

I think there should be a "Yos reccomended climbs" book by cc.comers!

 

I do think Braille Book is a good choice.

Moby Dick center is duper fine - quick off the road, other routes around it, and superber-ooo grunting....I mean climbing.

 

Im really glad I did royal arches. However, I agree with Rad. I think there are much better choices out there if you are only going to be around for a day or so. Go back and kill your curiousity about the route when you have more time.

 

Kurt - do you remember the area we climbed one day with super short, single pitch routes, 10ft from the parking lot (not by camp 4), there is a real popular, easy route that seems to be a magnet for classes? I think there is a chimney, a great layback climb, and a few others? Anyway. I think it was during a weekday, but we didnt find enough people there to be in our way. I thought the routes were worth it. Might be a good "half-day" option.

[AlpineK]

Church Bowl? I think I remember some good easyish short routes there.

[willstrickland]

DOOD AHAB IS SO FRICKIN' COOL!!!

 

Get some.

[RuMR]

already got some!!!! 5 or 6 years ago i decided to become "proficient" (whatever the hell that means) in ow!!!

 

on that section i faced in and then rotated back around once i got to the fisties...hahahaha wanna go back there sooooo bad...

[RuMR]

OH MY

and

here we go here we go...

[MattStan]

Church Bowl? I think I remember some good easyish short routes there.

That's where Bishop's Terrace is, if'n I recollect correctly. Tasty two-pitch 5.8 with a super-short approach. I'll also second the recommendation on Central Pillar of Frenzy -- just make sure to pack a #4 Camalot for the wide stuff on it and don't venture beyond the fifth pitch. If you're looking to push yourself, consider Serenity Crack, if it's not too hot.

[Telemack]

I personally recommend all the bad-ass routes I have done in the Valley that will impress you, but I can't give beta 'cuz it was so long ago---pre-cams, no sticky rubber, swamis---that they are way easy now.

Seriously, gang, didn't you see "1-1/2 days, moderate to easy, first time"? Some of these recs. are not realistic. Try El Cap base, Manure Pile, Central Pillar, sure, but some of the harder/longer suggestions will hose a first-visit guy.

A place not mentioned yet is Yosemite Falls, Jamcrack Route (5.7/5.9); then, Lazy Bum 10d/Bummer 10c, which can be led or TRed and are very quick and easy to find.

[chirp]

Zion...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

...ditch the Ditch.

[Peter_Puget]

So what did you do?