corvallisclimb Posted May 10, 2007 Posted May 10, 2007 Trip: Yosemite - Washington Column - Ten Days After Date: 5/9/2007 Trip Report: My friend Darrell called me saying he had a 4 day weekend and wanted to climb a wall. We had been talking about doing one together for a while and now the time was finally here. With a short amount of time we would have to choose something shorter. We opted for Ten Days After on Washington Column. Rated V 5.8 A3/C3+F in the supertopo we where not sure what to expect. The rack required quite a few pins and heads. So after finally leaving Oregon late Friday we arrived in the Valley Saturday morning. We hung in the meadow for a while rested and racked up, then made our way to the Awhanee. We got the the base after a while, the loads where heavy as we had stuff for 3 nights. We decided to start on the first 2 pitches of the prow to avoid wet grassy clibming on the original TDA pitches. Darrell took the odd pitches (free cruxes) and I took the even pitches (aid cruxes) so Darrell fixed the first pitch that evening and we slept at the base. We woke up pretty late and got a slow start, but soon the pigs where off the ground and we where on route. I soon was leading P2 of the Prow supposedly there where 2 rivets that escaped right from the Prow belay to the TDA belay. I clip the belay and look around then I look 20 feet blow me and spy the rivets, so I wind up lowering and penjing to the TDA belay. Darrell made quick time of the first pitch on TDA. Soon I was off on what I thougt would be on of the cruxes. I managed the pitch clean wich really boosted my confidence. Sime dicey cam hooks and top stepping where key too this. Some guys over on Astro Man took some pictures of us on that pitch wich I hope to get soon. Pitches 3 through 5 on TDA follow a steep, overhanging diheadral, looks beautiful from the ground. Then Darrell again made quick time on an easy C2 pitch and where at the spot where the route traverses left back onto the main face. We set up the ledge here wich was kind crappy in the overhaning diheadral, but after some booze and medicine, we where both asleep. Next morning I got to start it off with the A3 traverse. This pitch was mostly fixed with heads but there where some hook and cam moves. The next pitch was the only pitch where anything really happend while on route. Some thin gear off the belay leads to a bolt then a fixed KB in a roof. Darrel clipped the fixed blade but soon enough PING! "falling!" luckly I managed a good catch and he didnt fall very far, I was the only one who got hurt having my hand slammed between the grigri and the wall. Darrell yarded back up and lightly tapped a cam hook into where the fixed blade had been, another cam hook and he was on another rivet. Those taps to the cam hook would be the only time the hammer was used on route. After this one more pitch of TDA before it joins the Prow for the final pitches. This pitch had expando marked all over it in the super topo, so I was kinda nervous. I didn't find it to be bad at all, and soon we where back on the prow. Darrell lead one more short pitch and we where on tapir terrace a nice break from super haning belays. We fixed another pitch and then set up the ledge a little sooner than the night before, so we got a little drunker and quickly fell asleep. We got an early start the next morning and made quick time of the last 3 pitches of the Prow and we topped out by 12:00 we lounged on the summit for a while stuffed our selves full of extra food then packed up to get ready for the North Dome Gully descent, wich really sucks with heavy pigs. Back to the car 4 hours later and soon where where in the Ahwahnee eating smoked salmon and havinh ice cold beers. Another allnighter in the car and Darrell was able to make it to work in time. All in all a fun route, that was cool the try and do clean. Now here are a couple pictures: Darrell on P3 Me on P4 Darrell in the morning atop P5 Darrell on P9 Welcome home atop P9 not many great pictures but thats wall climbing. Gear Notes: wall rack Approach Notes: easy Quote
sweatinoutliquor Posted May 10, 2007 Posted May 10, 2007 Great write up, and congrats on the success! Quote
jlag Posted May 11, 2007 Posted May 11, 2007 Nice job Tyler, see your wearing your "climbing pants". Do you have a couple pair or do you just live in those things. LOL JL Quote
corvallisclimb Posted May 12, 2007 Author Posted May 12, 2007 Nice job Tyler, see your wearing your "climbing pants". Do you have a couple pair or do you just live in those things. LOL JL I'm trying to get sponsored by Adidas for climbing! Quote
tyree Posted May 12, 2007 Posted May 12, 2007 Nice work! I was looking at TDA when I was climbing the prow, nice looking line! Quote
SFDonner Posted May 24, 2007 Posted May 24, 2007 Nice TR. Is that a speaker in the third photo? Good style. Quote
corvallisclimb Posted May 24, 2007 Author Posted May 24, 2007 Nice TR. Is that a speaker in the third photo? Good style. For sure we where out! Mabey we brought to much for a shorter wall... music, stove, warm food, red wine, beer, tequilla... but it was fun! Quote
Kevin_Matlock Posted May 24, 2007 Posted May 24, 2007 Mabey we brought to much for a shorter wall... music, stove, warm food, red wine, beer, tequilla... No, this sounds about right... it's a single pitch, right? Good job, I'm jealous. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.