NTM Posted May 7, 2007 Posted May 7, 2007 i agree that if someone can move quickly, allowing folks to jump on and pass should be common sense/courtesy. however, i've had folks request to pass saying that they had done it before and it won't take long, then they proceed to haaaaaaaaaaannnnnnggggg all the way up it. if you can't back it up, don't pass, wait your turn patiently or go do something else, its not like there aren't TONS of fun (hard and easy) access routes to higher up stuff. Quote
plexus Posted May 7, 2007 Posted May 7, 2007 however, i've had folks request to pass saying that they had done it before and it won't take long, then they proceed to haaaaaaaaaaannnnnnggggg all the way up it. Ditto. You never know who can back up their chestbeating. The more humble the climber, the better they are. Quote
chucK Posted May 7, 2007 Posted May 7, 2007 Instead of chopping an anchor, what we actually need is a NEW anchor atop of JG short. Put one situated on the ledge (the natural spot for an anchor). Then the 10a climbers can set up there. If someone wants to "play through" then you know they'll at least be able to make it the current anchors easily and won't hang all over it. They will then be past the ground-level gang-ropers in quick fashion and will be able to attack the meat of the pitch without hurrying or bothering anyone. In fact, gang-ropers could just set up their toprope gear on a couple of long slings, just for this occasion! Quote
chucK Posted May 7, 2007 Posted May 7, 2007 You think I'm joking or something? I'm the fucking answerman! Quote
Raindawg Posted May 7, 2007 Posted May 7, 2007 Listen to the wisdom of the Lunch-Lady when the cafeteria runs out of corn dogs: "First come, first served, Buster." It ain't like Japanese Gardens is the only route at Index. If you got specific "ambitions", get up earlier than the other guys. Lunch lady would say, "quit your whining and go for the Sloppy Joe instead." And if you think you're somehow better or higher priority than those aid climbers who are out there monopolizing "your route", you aren't. Climbing is pretty lame to start with and those guys, like you, are just trying to have a big day of adventure. Go ahead...ask the lunch lady near you...she'll set you straight! Quote
ashw_justin Posted May 7, 2007 Posted May 7, 2007 Instead of chopping an anchor, what we actually need is a NEW anchor atop of JG short. Put one situated on the ledge (the natural spot for an anchor). Then the 10a climbers can set up there. Logically since this would essentially define a new route, the climb up to such alternate/short anchors should be named something different to avoid confusion. Something catchy and meaningful, like "Gang-hangers." Quote
bigwallben Posted May 7, 2007 Posted May 7, 2007 -Japenese Gardens p2, p3 p4. -Stiff Kittens -Cheesburgers on Trial -TPMV p2, p3, p4 -Trout Farm Massacre. -Journey to Pitar The natural approach for all these pitches is Japenese Gardens. Godzilla, Princley through Newest and the GNS are also options but most of the time are jammed. One could get there from the Middle Wall...but that would take hours. Did TPMV's upper pitches last weekend and the aid climbers racking up at the base of Japanese were kind enough to let us through. Thank you to whoever that was. The amount of days that I have gone to the lower wall to climb these upper pitches and had to scrap those plans because of mega huge top rope parties dominating the first 50' of Japenese gardens is staggering. I'm hopeful that someday those climbers who love to hangout on this small chunk of amazing stone will realize what lies above, and that there are potentially climbers who would love to get up there. I didn't remove the anchor but I do support the removal of this anchor. This is a bottleneck problem. That said, I understand the much larger majority of Index enthusiasts who just can't wait till the weekend to camp out beneath Japanese Short and test their mettle on one of the shortest 10a's around. Happy Climbing! Ben Gilkison Quote
RuMR Posted May 7, 2007 Posted May 7, 2007 hahaha... sounds like ben just slapped raindawg's lunch lady in da face... take that soup nazi... Quote
RuMR Posted May 7, 2007 Posted May 7, 2007 dwayner, for what its worth this proves your point about what happens if a route is dumbed down for the masses, so rethink your post... Quote
Raindawg Posted May 7, 2007 Posted May 7, 2007 The amount of days that I have gone to the lower wall to climb these upper pitches and had to scrap those plans because of mega huge top rope parties dominating the first 50' of Japenese gardens is staggering. Buy one of these: Quote
RuMR Posted May 7, 2007 Posted May 7, 2007 dwayner...a party does not have to hog the route ALL DAY...come on, sure, they have the right to, but still... Quote
bigwallben Posted May 7, 2007 Posted May 7, 2007 (edited) The amount of days that I have gone to the lower wall to climb these upper pitches and had to scrap those plans because of mega huge top rope parties dominating the first 50' of Japenese gardens is staggering. Buy one of these: If I recall correctly, my alarm woke me up at 630am. Thanks for the advice though. Ben Edited May 7, 2007 by bigwallben Quote
Alpinfox Posted May 7, 2007 Posted May 7, 2007 you know what you little tools...he's got a frickin' point...there is such thing as a courtesy...if he and partner can bust through the first whole pitch in 25 to 30 minutes to get on with a day higher up and you KNOW that you are gonna be on the thing ALL DAY with your bumbly self and first time girlfriend get the fuck out of the way...Seriously, its just courtesy... And another thing...lead the route and pull your fucking line so other parties can have a chance... FUCKING MANNERS PEOPLE... Sort like driving on a narrow logging road eh Rudy? HAHAHAHAHA!!! HONK! Quote
RuMR Posted May 7, 2007 Posted May 7, 2007 (edited) i shoulda left a steaming coil on your hood...or at least a used diaper!!!! Edited May 7, 2007 by RuMR Quote
tvashtarkatena Posted May 7, 2007 Posted May 7, 2007 dwayner, for what its worth this proves your point about what happens if a route is dumbed down for the masses, so rethink your post... "I hate the masses that much more every time I have to stand in line to do the same route everyone else is standing in line for." Quote
RuMR Posted May 7, 2007 Posted May 7, 2007 ha! I'm one of the masses...but i stand aside if i'm hogging something and will gladly pull my rope or offer it to anyone around if someone's waiting to go... Quote
plexus Posted May 7, 2007 Posted May 7, 2007 So what I'm learning from this thread is that JG is the Flying Circus climb of Index? Quote
RuMR Posted May 7, 2007 Posted May 7, 2007 So what I'm learning from this thread is that JG is the Flying Circus climb of Index? hey...its a great route! one of many... Quote
G-spotter Posted May 7, 2007 Posted May 7, 2007 ha! I'm one of the masses... yes, your mass is considerable Quote
RuMR Posted May 7, 2007 Posted May 7, 2007 ha! I'm one of the masses... yes, your mass is considerable large and in charge... i made all of the layback flakes creak this weekend...stand back... Quote
G-spotter Posted May 7, 2007 Posted May 7, 2007 the fat virus is contagious please don't come to squamish Quote
RuMR Posted May 7, 2007 Posted May 7, 2007 what? you worried your gonna sink from 5.8 capability to a 5.6c/d level? Quote
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