Tony_Bentley Posted April 26, 2007 Posted April 26, 2007 What is the name of this route? Seems to be about 5.10c. Quote
counterfeitfake Posted April 27, 2007 Posted April 27, 2007 Totally FA; don't let the rusty pins tell ya' otherwise. Quote
tradclimbguy Posted April 27, 2007 Posted April 27, 2007 It's documented but not listed here on cc.com. DCramer has a site thats got pics of the route and descriptions. I made a link to it, but I guess it was too much for the site and my post got deleted The route is an 11a, no name that I know of and there are other routes newly cleaned and setup to the right as well. If you want to actually visit a climbing site that talks mostly about climbing and lists routes and info go check out rcnw.net and look up this route under Sky Valley on the Lower Wall. I think the site is great! Too bad it's so low bandwidth right now. -TCG Quote
Tony_Bentley Posted April 27, 2007 Author Posted April 27, 2007 Still a no-namer. Someone give this route a name please! Quote
matt_m Posted April 27, 2007 Posted April 27, 2007 rcnw is low key and low bandwidth to keep the wanking to a minimum. There it's only about route info and pretty much that's it. Quote
TeleRoss Posted April 27, 2007 Posted April 27, 2007 Love that pitch! More like 10b/c than 11a though. Yeah, get somebody to name that thing. Quote
tradclimbguy Posted April 28, 2007 Posted April 28, 2007 How about Phast Children I still give it a 10+/11-. I think the slab moves over the first roof is way more than just a 10b and the traverse under the roof is definately more than a 10c with gear and smeary feat, but I think getting on the nubbins on the face to make it to the jug in the top roof and then pulling the lip puts it into the 11 range. I mean sloe children is listed at what? 10d? I can't remember, but either way I think it's a step up from that at least. Then again I'm old, fat and can't climb very hard anymore Quote
Tony_Bentley Posted May 2, 2007 Author Posted May 2, 2007 Sloe Children was named after a band if I recall. Maybe the route could be another band name like Boogie Brown or something. Quote
klar404 Posted May 9, 2007 Posted May 9, 2007 (edited) Sloe Children was named after a band if I recall. Maybe the route could be another band name like Boogie Brown or something. If it was up to me I would name it after my favorite (named) band "Black Mayo". Edited May 10, 2007 by klar404 Quote
Wallstein Posted May 10, 2007 Posted May 10, 2007 I think I was calling it something like "Little tommy's sandbox" I have heard everything from 11c to 10c for the grade. I thought it was 11- It seams the roof might be a little height dependent. I am glad people are actually climbing the route, it makes a great final pitch for the lower wall link up. Quote
DirtyHarry Posted October 15, 2008 Posted October 15, 2008 Is this a Mikey Schaeffer route? I did it for a second time last weekend and got my nuts kicked in again. Definitly at least 10+, I mean every move on it (40 meters or so) is 5.10, and most moves are solid 5.10. Excellent pitch though. Quote
lunger Posted October 15, 2008 Posted October 15, 2008 more like 10a doofus would also like to hear the name from the source. definitely more difficult than sloe children. if S.C. is 10d, then 11- seems reasonable. Quote
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