Polar Circus

[spiderman]

Does anyone know whether Polar Circus is still in decent shape? Has anyone been on it recently? I'm planning on heading up there before the end of the month with this as the main objective for another short trip.

[Weekend_Climberz]

It was being climbed last week after all the avy hazards flushed the route.

[genepires]

Not a local expert but I would bet that there would still be avi hazard on warm days which there should be plenty of if you will be up there at the end of this month. If you do it, getting off before 1pm would be a very very good idea if it is sunny and/or warm.

[Farrgo]

Climbed it on Sunday. It's in great shape still. It starts getting sun in the early afternoon so start early.

[TrogdortheBurninator]

We were out there today and the ice looked great. The avi hazard on the other hand would lend significant reason for concern. I would want some major settling and cold weather before I even thought about going up polar circus. Lots of fresh snow last night and lots of sloughing/sliding today. There seems to be sort of a 3 days of warm unsettled weather - one day of cold weather cycle right now. Definitely not ideal for climbing in Avy gullies.

 

The weeping wall today:

 

[pup_on_the_mountain]

Wow!!! Was there a climbing party on those ropes when the slide happened?

[TrogdortheBurninator]

Those are our ropes, it was pretty obvious when we got there that there would be some sloughing. Nothing too dangerous though. When the wall started sloughing we sat back for 20 minutes and let it do its thing.

 

Regarding avy danger, this excerpt is from the MCR for the day before Farrgo climbed PC

 

"There was a car parked at Polar Circus but today did not seem like the day to be up there. With "considerable hazard" in the alpine posted then the heavy wet snow combined with warm temperatures, I would avoid big terrain trap routes like Polar Circus and similar.

 

Sean Isaac

Assistant Alpine Guide "

 

Avy danger was between Considerable and High the entire time we were up there.

[Mike Barter]

 

 

Edited March 24, 2007 by Mike Barter

[Farrgo]

Regarding avy danger, this excerpt is from the MCR for the day before Farrgo climbed PC

 

"There was a car parked at Polar Circus but today did not seem like the day to be up there. With "considerable hazard" in the alpine posted then the heavy wet snow combined with warm temperatures, I would avoid big terrain trap routes like Polar Circus and similar.

 

Sean Isaac

Assistant Alpine Guide "

 

Avy danger was between Considerable and High the entire time we were up there.

 

To elaborate on avalanche conditions. PC is a avalanche prone route and there is definately need be safe up there. It was quite warm the previous day. However, there was a freeze overnight followed by a cold cloudy day with no wind. So I'd say conditions were pretty good the next day.

 

The day after Polar Circus we went up to look at Murchison falls and stood in the woods as avalanches/enormous spindriffs rumbled off the cliffs around the climb. Wouldn't have been on anything with avy danger that day.

 

This time of year in the Rockies weather and conditions are very ephermal and you need to constantly aware of changing conditions. Of all the time I was up there, the day I was on PC was the only one I thought was acceptable for climbing in avy terrain.

[glassgowkiss]

 

Of all the time I was up there, the day I was on PC was the only one I thought was acceptable for climbing in avy terrain.

 

i was there on sunday as well. i think your outlook on avi danger is very optimistic. strangely enough Ice Nine fell off on sunday and we were baking (so were our screws) on weeping pillar. i don't think the temps were all that diferent on a route just a couple of clics away. a pretty good size "slough" almost knock my partner off belay (our rope released little snow field 8mx5m. however i am sure you have better knowledge of rockies snowpack then most of us fools.

btw, it's not the big slope above the route you have to look out for, but the shitty little slope you have to cross to bypass the pencil pitch

[thelawgoddess]

i was there on sunday as well.

glass, you still "up there" these days? i'm contemplating a trip that way very soon. obviously not to hit up the polar circus, but i'd love to buy your sideshow ass a beer.