Cairns Posted March 19, 2007 Posted March 19, 2007 Cairns, great shots! Give me a shout if you're still climbing and make it down to PDX sometime... Â Okay, thanks. Â Standing in the middle of nowhere, Â Â Â Â Wondering where to begin, Â Â Â Lost between tomorrow and yesterday, Â Â Â Between now and then. Â Â Â And then its back where we started, Time to go 'round again, Â Â Â Day after day I get up and I say, Time to do it again, Â Â Â Do it again, do it again. Â Â Â Boys, pony up sometime with just stoppers and hexs and give Blownout a whirl. I bet you'd have a whole new perspective of the climb. Maybe we should hold a 'RetroDay' and party afterwards this summer... Â Â Although we rapped off a hex, in the dark, into poison oak, it is likely that a few Friends were on the rack. It was Henry Barber who didn't bother with cams at Beacon. Quote
Cairns Posted March 19, 2007 Posted March 19, 2007 Holy fuck....thats Blown out. Who is that? Â Â Different route, but here's the photographer: Â Â Quote
Cairns Posted March 19, 2007 Posted March 19, 2007 Â Pins, swami, goldline, and kronhofers: Â That is a great shot, Cairns. Â Â Yes, from well before the box camera. Mike Warburton, seen below at left, chipped it using a stone lashed to a stick. Â Quote
kevbone Posted March 19, 2007 Posted March 19, 2007 It was Henry Barber who didn't bother with cams at Beacon. Â Henry Barber climbed at Beacon? Wow.....when? Quote
Cairns Posted March 19, 2007 Posted March 19, 2007 It was Henry Barber who didn't bother with cams at Beacon. Â Henry Barber climbed at Beacon? Wow.....when? Â Â When Free for Some was freed. Before 1978, publication date of the Jeff Thomas guide: Â "Nuts are strongly advocated for protection on all climbs." Â "The practice of applying chalk is similar to smoking; it does not bother those who do it, but it is highly irritating to those who do not. In addition, experience at Smith Rock has shown it to be highly visible and a permanent blemish on any climb with an overhang. Leave the offending white powder at home!" Quote
kevbone Posted March 19, 2007 Posted March 19, 2007 It was Henry Barber who didn't bother with cams at Beacon. Â Henry Barber climbed at Beacon? Wow.....when? Â Â When Free for Some was freed. Before 1978, publication date of the Jeff Thomas guide: Â "Nuts are strongly advocated for protection on all climbs." Â "The practice of applying chalk is similar to smoking; it does not bother those who do it, but it is highly irritating to those who do not. In addition, experience at Smith Rock has shown it to be highly visible and a permanent blemish on any climb with an overhang. Leave the offending white powder at home!" Â Are you saying Freeforsome was first freed by HB? Quote
Raindawg Posted March 19, 2007 Posted March 19, 2007   Great picture of Trigger Finger! I climbed it the first of many times on my first trip to Leavenworth in March 1976. After he got off work as a dishwasher at a Mexican restaurant, at midnight, Jim Yoder drove me, Matt Kerns, and Mike Adams over the pass in his giant smoking Cadillac that required a couple of quarts of fresh oil every hour or so. After spinning out on highway ice (at least once), we arrived around 3 AM to the apple orchards where we slept on the edge of the road. (No parking lot then!). Trigger Finger and all of the weird shapes of the Pinnacles greeted me when I woke up and then I spent a wild day paired up with Mike Adams, wearing a too small pair of stiff rock shoes kindly lent to me by Kerns. I hadn't done a lot of 5.9 then but I sure did a few by the end of the day, including a scary route on Trigger Finger called "Hangover". It was located on the side of the Finger opposite that in the photo and involved a poorly-protected, overhanging, two-handed free-flying lunge for a lip with some questionable shenanigans afterwards.  Trigger Finger was a real novelty climb and Mike Adams would occasionally do a headstand on the summit. I tried it a couple of times but would get disoriented...the anchors were below the summit and a fall would have meant a spooky tumble.  Good times!  Here's a picture of Trigger Finger before and after it's mighty fall: Summit Post: Trigger Finger   Quote
Cairns Posted March 20, 2007 Posted March 20, 2007 It was Henry Barber who didn't bother with cams at Beacon. Â Henry Barber climbed at Beacon? Wow.....when? Â Â When Free for Some was freed. Before 1978, publication date of the Jeff Thomas guide: Â "Nuts are strongly advocated for protection on all climbs." Â "The practice of applying chalk is similar to smoking; it does not bother those who do it, but it is highly irritating to those who do not. In addition, experience at Smith Rock has shown it to be highly visible and a permanent blemish on any climb with an overhang. Leave the offending white powder at home!" Â Are you saying Freeforsome was first freed by HB? Â Â That is indeed what memory kicked out, at first, but later I thought I might have heard 2 differing stories on the FFA. I wasn't there at the time. I was climbing at Devil's Lake, getting several kinds of abuse from Pete Cleveland. There was the newly freed Bagatelle he wanted people to try. My first tendon injury. Quote
JosephH Posted March 20, 2007 Posted March 20, 2007 Kevin, man - hell, even I knew Hot Henry stampeded through town. I heard he also chastised the locals about the intermediate anchor on FFS... Quote
Off_White Posted March 20, 2007 Posted March 20, 2007 Great tale Dawg. Surely you've got some dusty gems floating around in an old paper sack of slides and snapshots, post up! Quote
pink Posted March 20, 2007 Posted March 20, 2007 Kevin, man - hell, even I knew Hot Henry stampeded through town. I heard he also chastised the locals about the intermediate anchor on FFS... Â and now we have an intermediate/intermediate anchor there. fuck, i hope he stamps through town again. Quote
kevbone Posted March 21, 2007 Posted March 21, 2007 Kevin, man - hell, even I knew Hot Henry stampeded through town. I heard he also chastised the locals about the intermediate anchor on FFS... Â and now we have an intermediate/intermediate anchor there. fuck, i hope he stamps through town again. Â God I love that anchor. Quote
phillygoat Posted March 21, 2007 Posted March 21, 2007 So, Kev... Does this mean "Freeforsum" hasn't really sent Free For Some? haha Quote
kevbone Posted March 21, 2007 Posted March 21, 2007 I heard he also chastised the locals about the intermediate anchor on FFS... Â What do you care.....its not like you climb that climb. Quote
kevbone Posted March 21, 2007 Posted March 21, 2007 So, Kev... Does this mean "Freeforsum" hasn't really sent Free For Some? haha  Thats correct.....by some standards. Quote
k.rose Posted March 22, 2007 Posted March 22, 2007 Someone upthread talked about these pictures are smokin, here's one thats burning. Stoking the fires of hell about 30 years ago. Quote
JosephH Posted March 23, 2007 Posted March 23, 2007 I heard he also chastised the locals about the intermediate anchor on FFS... Â What do you care.....its not like you climb that climb. Â True, I haven't been on it for a long time. Your point relative to me passing along a scrap of history...? Or are you just thumping. I would like to see you do that clean, have no doubt you can. Quote
Skeezix Posted April 8, 2007 Posted April 8, 2007 (edited) I finally got a flatbed scanner, so here goes... Liberty Ridge 1983 Mark Sheek on Lieback Route, Raven's Roost, VA --1975 Your's truly on Bo Derek, Givler's Dome, Icicle Canyon @ 1979 Rigging a tyrolean from Rattlesnake Tower, Tumwater Canyon 1978 (Note US Army-issue "Greenline" rope) Lounging at Pavillion Campground, Seneca Rocks, WV 1978 Edited April 8, 2007 by Skeezix Quote
Off_White Posted April 8, 2007 Posted April 8, 2007 was he using a box-camera? Â No, I was: Â Â Â Â Quote
Skeezix Posted April 9, 2007 Posted April 9, 2007 Mark Sheek on top of Seneca Rocks Seneca mountain porn Quote
catbirdseat Posted April 9, 2007 Posted April 9, 2007 Â Â Three cheers for the American Triangle! Quote
EWolfe Posted April 9, 2007 Author Posted April 9, 2007 That B & W of Seneca rocks is wonderful! :tup: Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.