best of cc.com Pictures From the Wayback Machine

[JosephH]

 

 

Deb's Crack, 1972

 

Cool pic. That's a fun route.

 

Pretty advanced looking footwear for '72. Now we were admittedly in a Midwest backwater in '74 but I didn't think those were available til more like '75ish...

[stillcrankin]

 

 

Deb's Crack, 1972

 

Cool pic. That's a fun route.

 

Pretty advanced looking footwear for '72. Now we were admittedly in a Midwest backwater in '74 but I didn't think those were available til more like '75ish...

 

 

EB's, Yosemite mountain shop 1972-$25. Leather sewn on upper canvas, home-$1?

 

Advanced? Ha! That's pretty funny.

 

 

 

 

[MisterMo]

Crack of Doom, Dana Dudley Spring '70

 

Madsen's Swimming Hole, Julie Brugger, Chris Chandler, Sept, '70

 

Upper Town Wall Cave, Dick Emerson, Winter, 1971

 

 

Sulphide Glacier Ski Tour, Dick Emerson, May '71

 

Stillcrankin on Arches Terrace, Sept '72

 

 

[111]

wow, I never realized how old some of you are. Bunch of oldies on CC. Howsabout we make a geriatrics spray forum.

[stillcrankin]

wow, I never realized how old some of you are. Bunch of oldies on CC. Howsabout we make a geriatrics spray forum.

 

Your day's a comin' beeotch. Let's see how you're doin' when everything hurts.....

 

 

 

.

[catbirdseat]

If you live your time will come

I say if you live your time will come

So child don't mess with that cotton sack

It will scratch your knees and bend your back

And if you live your time will come

 

If you live your day will come

If you live your day will come

So child don't play with those pots and pans

They will soon enough ruin your pretty hands

And if you live your time will come

 

If you live a day will come

If you live a day will come

When the sun will shine

And the crops will grow

And you think you're not gonna worry no more

But if you live, your time will come

[stillcrankin]

 

 

Nice pics, MisterMo sir.

 

Thank you for finally chiming in and shouldering some of this pressure. If it comes down to dueling scanners, you're going to whip my a$$.

 

 

Pat Timson on the first pitch of Reeds Direct, mid 70's. No whimpy cams or leg loops present.

 

 

 

MisterMo scoping routes on the Chief from the road in front of the caves, 1972?

 

 

 

Timson soloing unnamed crack at Gran Trano Blanco, mid 70's

 

[JosephH]

Hey Joseph,

 

That first pic is awesome. Did the leader run that whole thing out, or are you guys toproping it? Bold!!

 

PS, this is a great thread!

 

It was a TR as we were hyper LNT - no bolts, no chalk even. The start is quite a ways to the right and down and the top is way up and left so it's a pretty ugly fall because you have to get up on it a ways for the TR to even kick in. I'm just moving through the lower crux which ends in a full hang rest from the lip before doing the top section. The TR doesn't start kicking in until about where I'm at and won't keep you fully off the ground until you hit the lip. You're essentially doing the roof as a highball problem 23' off the deck and we each took two dives from the spot I'm at sorting out the roof sequence. That resulted in landing more or less horizontal pounding your lower body, then having the TR kick in and drag you over some relatively flat rocks on your way out over the creek bank and through the bushes. You then had to manage the landing coming back into the creek bank. Pretty indelicate in general. Once you were moving out of the full hang onto the upper section you were just looking at a ride.

[JosephH]

Reeds Direct sans cams - burly I would imagine...

[ken4ord]

Full respect to you old climbing fools, awesome pictures keep them coming. Hell if I had my photos here I'd scan a few, but none were from the 70's I was still busy trying not to poop and wet my pants.

[layton]

Didn't Mike Layton and Marcus Donaldson do it?

 

Oh, sorry. Mike and Marcus did it with Jim providing ground control. I believe they said they did a couple of points of aid, so no one other than Karsten and myself to-date. Ken (Walla-walla) and Jason went up it with me last fall.

 

I'm pretty sure Erik Linthwaite (IVAN) and I did it free 4 years ago. When Marcus and I did it, one pitch was different (the 1pt aid pitch) and that was after Joe and Karsten.

[JosephH]

Mike, when I talked with Erik he said you guys struck out right from the middle of YW p3 into the obvious chute running above (left) of the LW p3/4 and met LW instantly above the roof moves in the shot above. Do you recall differently? I think your comment that the "first aid pitch was different" would mean you did LW p3 with Marcus which would also mean you wouldn't have done LW p4 with Erik as the chute you guys went up bypasses the LW p3/p4 belays up and left. It's also hard to imagine there wouldn't have been any fixed/left small gear on the LW p3/4 if you had gone that way. The loose material on those pitches also suggested no traffic.

 

Now, from above the roof to the top has certainly seen [mixed free/aid] traffic going back to the 60's, particularly where it meets and tops out through the 'Lost Variation'. Are you saying you also freed all of that last pitch to the top out? Kudos if so. So is it possible you and Erik did what we are currently calling LW? Possible, but I find it pretty hard to believe that the current LW P2-4 ever had anyone on them. But we should go up there together this coming season, scope it all out again and compare notes. Also, we'll be working on a couple of more independent lines to the right you should get in on.

[kevbone]

Didn't Mike Layton and Marcus Donaldson do it?

 

Oh, sorry. Mike and Marcus did it with Jim providing ground control. I believe they said they did a couple of points of aid, so no one other than Karsten and myself to-date. Ken (Walla-walla) and Jason went up it with me last fall.

 

I'm pretty sure Erik Linthwaite (IVAN) and I did it free 4 years ago. When Marcus and I did it, one pitch was different (the 1pt aid pitch) and that was after Joe and Karsten.

 

Mike….wow, I did not think you actually climbed at Beacon. If you did nab an early accent…..great job. Would you agree with JH’s grade of 11+?

[JosephH]

Kevin, that was actually more Karsten's call on the grade - we settled on 11+ / 11c... Mike and Marcus said they thought the upper of the two cruxes was the harder of the two and Karsten and I thought the lower one was more challenging and still do after doing them a bunch.

 

P.S. Once it opens and I'm back in shape we should hit it together and see what you think, you can also check with Jason and Ken for their thoughts on the grade...

[chriss]

I'll play...

 

'75 or so

 

'77ish

 

(bigger than expected, sorry)

chris

Edited March 16, 2007 by chriss

[JosephH]

Here's about the only other one I have - Doug Drewes, circa '76, on "Student Center South - By The Column" [very technical, V5/6 (I would guess) ]. As the name implies the problem goes up the column and then out the roof pods to where Doug is about to attempt the very careful transition to a full hang before firing the top. The first transition from the column top into to the knee jams in the roof pods is one crux, moving across the pods to get established on that edge is the second, and then negotiating that "careful transition" to a full hang while maintaining full control of how your feet lower out is the third crux - manage that one badly such that your feet just cut/swing and you get ripped off the edge suffering a desperate face-planting wrist-breaker onto the concrete below. We did it both on this lower South portico and on the 20 foot or so East portico.

 

[layton]

Joseph, I can't recall exactly. Erik and I didn't do the 5.11 pitch that marcus and I did after you guys freed that section. We were somewhere close though. We freed the rest, including the loweball section and the roof finish...which when I did with marcus, we found it considerably different.

 

Basically you, karsten, erik, and I all did a similar route with some variations here and there. I can't get into it more than that, it was too long ago and the whole area was pretty confusing/contrived...but fun.

[JosephH]

Fair enough Mike, it may have been plausible to drop from the chute (which, as you say travels parallel to the left and above quite close) onto the p4 anchor spot and then up p4, but it still seems pretty damn unlikely. Erik said you guys took the chute all the way to where it empties onto the left side of the face above the roof lip and traverses left-to-right across the lip bypassing the actual roof moves and the slabs below. Again, I'd pretty surprised if you guys made it up those slabs, up the boulder problem below the roof, and up through the roof without pro in some spots and without leaving some in others. The roof can be avoided pretty much just like the crux on YW - by going left up to where the chute empties and then do the high traverse back right - but there would be no bypassing the slab and boulder problem up to the roof, and dropping out of the chute onto that p4 anchor to go that way wouldn't be easy or obvious either.

 

I will give you the point that, what with it starting on YW and ending by freeing the second half of the Lost Variation (hence LW), that it covers some well-traveled common ground for two of the six pitches. But I wouldn't call it contrived in any way, however, as there was just no other independent way to get into or off the heart p3-p5 pitches. Like I said, come do it again with me this summer and come work on the new ones where we can all be assured no one has ever been. Regardless of the murky FA status of the various stretches, the route is a pretty good and varied addition to the family of stout routes out there and will be a good "warmup" to acclimatize for the routes up through the roofs to the right...

[MisterMo]

Further rainy nite digging yielded:

 

Turns all year above Summerland, June 1969

 

And a handful of fun places that no longer exist:

 

St Helens Forsyth Glacier, June 1968

 

Original P2 Town Crier, Spring 1970

 

 

The Face Climbing Boulder near Snow Creek Trail, Spring 1969

 

and the jam cracks under the I5 Ship Canal Bridge, Winter 1970

 

 

 

[JosephH]

We need to catalog the various jams like that around PDX...

[sk]

Not sure of the current or historical name. The only route we know the name of was the Hydrotube at that time (around 1992). I haven't been there since the various guide books have been out. Starting from the hydrotube, facing the rock, you have hydrotube, then a route that veres off the tube to the right up through a steep bulge to an anchor, the next route right of that moves up and right onto a rib then left through a weird scoop to an anchor, then the next route to the right climbs straight up along the right side of the arete (which is the route in the photo, which was I think about 5.10 or so). So what is the name of that?

I think you are talking about "this aint no disco" but i am not sure.... if so i think that goes at 5.11. god i wish i would have been there then *sigh*

 

p.s. I love all the old photos. best thred in AGES!!!

[kevbone]

 

P.S. Once it opens and I'm back in shape we should hit it together and see what you think, you can also check with Jason and Ken for their thoughts on the grade...

 

I would like that. I also need to get back in shape. Climbing 3 times in 5 months sucks balls.

[Off_White]

 

Bouldering in San Diego, about 1978. I used to love to take out a 4x5 view camera and screw around with mis-aligning the shutter and focal planes.

[Off_White]

Here's the climbing area in my front yard, circa 1915. Uhhh, not my picture.

 

[kevbone]

Off....is that you in that pic?