kevbone Posted June 9, 2008 Posted June 9, 2008 Well its still there. I did not remove the history. Simply added a new one in a better position. Quote
ivan Posted June 9, 2008 Posted June 9, 2008 ah nice - a menu of anchors! kinda like the upper anchors of jensen's ridge! Quote
pierceadams Posted June 25, 2008 Posted June 25, 2008 good looking out for the safety of others and many thanks for using personally bought gear. Quote
geoff Posted June 25, 2008 Posted June 25, 2008 If anyone is looking for a good bolt candidate to replace, I always thought the third or fourth bolt on the second pitch of New Generation at Carver, the one right before you traverse to the left, is the worst looking bolt I've ever clipped. Â Â Quote
corvallisclimb Posted June 26, 2008 Author Posted June 26, 2008 Menagerie  Rooster Rock 2 Anchor bolts on the summit.  PS and if any one knows who added the nice 1/2" bolts to the summit of rooster rock most likley with a power drill. Let me know so I can cut their nuts off. Tell em they can have their hangers back. Quote
kevbone Posted June 26, 2008 Posted June 26, 2008 Is that bad that someone added bolts to the top? Quote
corvallisclimb Posted June 26, 2008 Author Posted June 26, 2008 (edited) yeah, convenience anchors in the wilderness suck! Edited June 27, 2008 by corvallisclimb Quote
corvallisclimb Posted November 18, 2008 Author Posted November 18, 2008 (edited) Menagerie  The Bridge The Newt Route 1 anchor bolt atop P2 1 lead bolt on P3  W/ Chris Fralick and Randy Rimby 11/08  and thats how you drill  hidden single bolt belay Edited November 18, 2008 by corvallisclimb Quote
rocky_joe Posted February 4, 2009 Posted February 4, 2009 The last two bolts on Double Trouble at Smith are pretty sketchy. Might as well be plant hangers, esp the last one which spun 180 deg. I didn't even bother clipping it. The anchors are also a little unnerving, there was definitely a significant amount of creaking going on during the lower. Quote
Ishmael Posted April 16, 2009 Posted April 16, 2009 Thanks for the replacement work. I used some of those bolts on a trip to Smith this spring... Quote
powderhound Posted April 21, 2009 Posted April 21, 2009 Twin Pillar's: New anchor bolt on top of main pillar, Tyler styled the hand drill in a few minutes flat. You can now safely get back to the tera firma. Quote
corvallisclimb Posted April 22, 2009 Author Posted April 22, 2009 Twin Pillars - Mill Creek Wilderness Main Pillar - Campfire Route? 1 Lead Bolt 1 Anchor Bolt  W Bryan Schmitz 4/19/07   did the main pillar go free?  ha for us hardly i think we did that F6 A3 route but who even knows! Quote
powderhound Posted April 22, 2009 Posted April 22, 2009 Twin Pillars - Mill Creek Wilderness Main Pillar - Campfire Route? 1 Lead Bolt 1 Anchor Bolt  W Brian Schmitz 4/19/07   did the main pillar go free?  ha for us hardly i think we did that F6 A3 route but who even knows!  the main pillar is free via the "north face route" f7!!!! the campfire route could be free, but it would be a ballsy endeavor, not something you would do onsight, having only done the lower half free on TR, I thought the overhang would go around 5.11, maybe harder. Quote
fgw Posted April 22, 2009 Posted April 22, 2009 (edited) thanks & thanks for the efforts Tyler. Â so the F6 A3 line goes up the groove in the photo above guy's head by chance? Â Â edit: sorry dont know why photo's not showing up but the link's right. Edited April 22, 2009 by fgw Quote
powderhound Posted April 22, 2009 Posted April 22, 2009 yeah...and the north face starts about 15 feet left of the groove in a right facing corner. The second pitch of the north face climb...joins the weakness above the groove. Â did you guys climb the pillar? We didn't find anything in the way of anchor material on top, we were wondering how long its been since the thing has been summited. Quote
corvallisclimb Posted April 23, 2009 Author Posted April 23, 2009 thanks & thanks for the efforts Tyler. so the F6 A3 line goes up the groove in the photo above guy's head by chance?   edit: sorry dont know why photo's not showing up but the link's right.  theres some more text after the .jpg Quote
corvallisclimb Posted May 13, 2009 Author Posted May 13, 2009 Smith Rock  Diheadreals - Methuselas Column 5 Lead Bolts 2 Anchor Bolts  Diheadreals - Rattle Snake Chimney 1 Lead Bolt  Diheadreals - Bunny Face 6 Hangers 2 Anchors Bolts, to top out.  Diheaderals - Rabbit Stew 2 Anchors Bolts  Cocaine Gully - Hippos On Ice 3 Lead Bolts  All with Jim Ablao 5/9/09 Quote
corvallisclimb Posted May 28, 2009 Author Posted May 28, 2009 Smith Rock  Red Wall - Helter Skelter 6 Anchor bolts 4 Lead bolts  with Wilbur Nazarien 5/26/09 Quote
corvallisclimb Posted June 19, 2009 Author Posted June 19, 2009 Wolf Rock  Sport Arch - Right Corner Arete 2 Anchor bolts 6 lead bolts  with John Rich 6/16/09  acctually i added a bolt and moved the anchor up 10 feet to a nice stance so now its a little bit longer Quote
ivan Posted June 19, 2009 Posted June 19, 2009 never underestimate the enthusiasm of a man w/ a drill Quote
Jay Chute Posted August 3, 2009 Posted August 3, 2009 Anyone interested in re-bolting at Carver. It needs serious help. Quote
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