Recent Guye/Chair/vicinity climbs(1/28+)

[crazy_t]

Thinking about climbing SW rib in the next couple of days. Anyone up there, or Chair, Tooth etc. in the last few days with a conditions report? I appreciate it.

Edited January 30, 2007 by crazy_t

[TrogdortheBurninator]

Snow conditions are super variable right now at the pass and depend a lot on aspect, elevation, and amount of sun. As long as the temps drop below freezing overnight (not a guarantee with this inversion), I'd imagine you'll find a nice hard weight supporting crust on exposed S facing slopes. In the afternoon expect conditions to vary from great step kicking to knee deep slop.

[Dannible]

Did Chair on Saturday, along with about 20 other people. On the NF the first pitch was good ice and the rest was snow with a thin crust in places, and a couple of short ice patches. The NE buttress looked good too. Freeze-thaw has been doing it's thing.

[DirtyHarry]

Jesus, Chair is like the winter Tooth. Can't anybody climb anything else?

[slothrop]

Abiel, Kent, and McClellan Butte are all easily accessed off I-90 and have fun, moderate north face routes. All three involve more snow/ice steeper than 30 degrees than Chair. The approaches are a bit longer maybe, but all three peaks have fun routes if conditions are right. There's plenty of info on cc.com and in Beckey.

 

Red and Kaleetan are probably in good shape for snow climbin', too.

[MCash]

The central ice couloir line that Gary and slothrop did on Kent last year is in. The hard (and undone) WI5 lines on the west side of the north face are in. The west face route on the Duke of Kent was not touching down and is still undone. There are several other waterfalls in the that basin that have formed and are probably unclimbed.

[tanstaafl]

Climbed Guye yesterday; all snow and no ice; fun and cruiser. Snow was a little sugary but steps were fine. The smaller lighter people were able to just walk on top of the crust on the way in but not the bigger people. Saw a bald eagle while having lunch on top.

 

Was on the north side of Kent in the late afternoon; didn't have much time to look around but it looked like there was some fun stuff back there.

[scottgg]

Marko and I climbed that central ice line on Kent on Saturday, and found stellar conditions. Took about about two hours in two long simul-blocks up thunker ice and rock hard neve. Highly recommended!

[dbb]

does anyone have a story to tell from Mt. Kent on Sunday?

[5.12Dreamer]

"The NE buttress looked good too. Freeze-thaw has been doing it's thing."

 

Two parties climbed the line to the left of the lower buttress, which looked to be thin ice over slabby rock. My partner and I chose to climb the gulley, then rapped off from the top of the first pitch. The gulley was not in good shape; the crust broke easily and underneath lied 8-10 inches of sugar over poor, thin ice.

 

From the other parties on both routes, and what I experienced down low, there is no quality snow for protection. And there is a lack of good ice (some on one NF pitch?). One exception might be the steep Buttress pitch, which looked good from far below. I think the other two parties bypassed it on the left, but I'm not sure they did that because it wasn't in shape.

 

There does not seem to have been much freeze/thaw action, it's been too cold. I had hoped that the recent sun would improve the route conditions from what was reported two weeks ago, but it has not.

[NYC007]

snow conditions were great around NF of snoq. mtn

 

up high on the face

[scottgg]

does anyone have a story to tell from Mt. Kent on Sunday?

What the story Dave?

[Dannible]

 

 

From the other parties on both routes, and what I experienced down low, there is no quality snow for protection. And there is a lack of good ice (some on one NF pitch?). One exception might be the steep Buttress pitch, which looked good from far below. I think the other two parties bypassed it on the left, but I'm not sure they did that because it wasn't in shape.

 

There does not seem to have been much freeze/thaw action, it's been too cold. I had hoped that the recent sun would improve the route conditions from what was reported two weeks ago, but it has not.

 

The 50-60 degree slope leading up to the NF gully and the first pitch had solid, fun ice. Not great for screws, but it would have almost been hard to fall off of it. Above that it was mostly snow, but it was good enough to not be scary even without pro (a slung root was all I got on P.2, and all that was needed).

And yes DirtyHarry, it was kind of like the Tooth in the summer, only with a lot more shit falling down on your head. A constant stream of falling ice added to the adventure.

[crazy_t]

Climbed that S side of Guye today (intersected with your tracks and maybe someone else's in bits, taanstafl). It was mellow but fun, a nice workout on a nice day. Like many say, snow was pretty firm, esp on S facing aspects. It has seen a lot of melt thaw + metamorphism too. Good now, and should stay good or improve on these aspects for as long as this weather trend continues. Firm crust/thick layer on top either supports steps or sometimes was frontpointing on steeper "snice". Nice cruising with a couple of steeper sections with options; pro from trees, not much protectable ice or usable ice right now.

 

For beginning snow climbers, in this condition it is in this would be a nice day trip. Avy hazard very low (now, 1-29). Very easy and solid trail to base coming up from road by rope tow, snow is solid and you could belay 2 ropelengths or more (or less), and pick a way that was mellow to steeper with steep/ mellow mixed thrown in. Descent N off of summit(s) is easy to follow (tracks), takes you to Alpental parking lot. This tr/ description was pretty accurate: http://www.summitpost.org/route/260526/south-gulley-direct.html

 

N facing snow was a different story. Thin firm/crust layer on top of variable depth lighter and drier. Layers and pack varied greatly depending on aspect at same elevations, and even small variances in elevation produces very different snow. It was fine coming down on foot, generally.

 

Skiers, S facing open slopes (like off of Red, Snoqualmie, those faces in Commonwealth) seem to be doing a corn thing and might be nice if the weather/sun cooperated. N facing, see above. Otherwise, not the best downhill skiing (firm to breakable crust), and you'd definitely want harscheisen for tours. (This was Monday, with 20-30s temps and midday sun).

 

It's going to be ugly when the next fresh snow lands on this firm snow/ crust. I even saw some majorly facetted surface hoar in some places.

 

 

And thanks to everyone for the snow and route reports. Not being able to get out often these days, it is appreciated!

 

Edited January 30, 2007 by crazy_t