[TR] Mt. Hood - North Face/ Left Chute 1/14/2007

[kadyakerbob]

Trip: Mt. Hood - North Face/ Left Chute

 

Date: 1/14/2007

 

Trip Report:

(Bob writing)Eben, Laura and myself decided to give the north face a go on Sunday, since the weather was so damn beautiful. We left the parking lot at 1am and started the long trek in. we managed to get up to cloud cap by about 2:30am. This whole first section was really nice packed trail. Everything went well until we started climbing.

Once we arrived on the glacier the schloggin was slow. We were tired and the snow was holding us up a bit. We traded turns breaking trails and arrived at the schrun at 8AM. (Eben Writing)Crossing the Schrun was a trip. We crossed over on the far right, placing pickets as we moved along. Initially we were planning of climbing the right couloir but after arriving at the base we noticed that there wasnt really any ice in the right couloir, but there was a sweet looking short vertical ice pitch at the base of the left couloir. so We then traversed left up into the left couloir. Where the first and only real pitch of climbing began. There was a thirty foot pitch of vertical ice(WI4 with shitty pro). Bob took the bold lead and Laura and I slowly paid out the rope. As he was climbing Laura and I felt like the mountain was shedding its top layer and our ledge was constantly shrinking due to all the spindrift. Bob cleared the lip and set up belay. I followed second and Laura cleaned the route, all three of us agreed that spindrift sucks. After we were all over the ice and into the couloir it was around 10am. After the initial ice pitch we simul climbed the rest of the face. Snow was decent, but could have been a little more solid. We reached the summit at 3PM. Zero wind on the south side was a welcomed change from the frigid wind and nasty temps on the north side.

 

Over all the climb wasn't too bad, but definately not as spicy as we all thought it would be. There was really only 30 feet of actual climbing on the north face. But the ice along the spur might offer some good climbing this weekend.

 

Overview:(bob writing) The crux of the route was definetely the initial ice pitch. Which was'nt extremely difficult but the ice was soft making any placements very iffy. The constant spin drift also aided in making it a little bit of a pain. I was suprised how mellow the rest of the route was. from the top of the first pitch to the top is all just easy 60 degree slopes to the top. I definetely think that with a little bit more consolidation of both the snow and ice would make the route much more enjoyable.

 

We have some ok pics, somtime this week we will scan them in and post, so everyone can see how the conditions were.

 

Gear Notes:

4 ice screws

4 pickets

 

Approach Notes:

Not to bad, most of the way the snow was packed. once we got onto the Elliot we post holed a little bit.

[sweatinoutliquor]

Nice job! I had a sneaking suspicion that most of the ice pitches may have been buried when I was talking to Eben the day before you left, but it sounds like at least that one pitch was spicy enough to make it worthwhile! ! Thanks for posting a report though, and good job getting up it regardless! Sounds like it was a lot of work! Post the pics when you get a chance!

[ivan]

nice job - looked down on you from the summit - was on that side of the mountain the day before for a shot at the spur but it was crazy windy - thought that the n face routes were totally buried, but still a fine accomplishment in the frigid conditions

[kadyakerbob]

interestingly enough, the north side routes do not have as much snow as one would think. For instance all the ice flowing off of cooper spur looked great! I thought with all the snow that stuff might be buried but there didnt seem to be a great deal of snow. The left couloir still had quite a bit of rock showing and it looked as if the right couloir was even more bear. But still good! A little warm weather and then a cold streak will make the whole mountain happy.

[l0930]

Laura writing- It was cold up there but pretty fun. That pitch of ice at the base of the gulley was sweet. Wish the approach would have been a little harder as cold as it was. Also not as much snow as I would have thought with the weather reports. Good time though.

[syklone]

Did you decend the south side? How were conditions at the Pearly Gates?

[Teleconvert]

I was on the South side Sunday and the pearly gates are still steep (probably 50 to 55 degrees or so), with sections of water ice and a 10 to 15 foot vertical rime ice step at the gates. Along the summit ridge, there was a significant difference in temperature between the north and south sides. After coming up the sun baked south side, the north was positvely frigid. Nice work!

[benb]

Thanks for the report. It sounds like a good day.

[Joe_Poulton]

So, sounds like a better ski run then a climb right now...any cornices developing near the top of the face?

[iceaxe]

I climbed through the gates (left side) on Sunday. As teleconvert noted, it's quite steep and icy. The hairy part is a section about 6' or so of near vertical smooth water ice!

[ivan]

iceaxe - was that you who followed me w/ the 'board on your back?

[iceaxe]

I didn't have a board on my back but I followed someone up. It didn't look like there were too many people taking that route so it was probably you. Did you ask me if I had 2 tools after you climbed the step?

For the record I did have a second tool along with my ice ax...which if I had to do it again I wouldn't think of going up that with less than both my ice tools...ice ax strapped neatly on my pack.

[ivan]

ah yes, i remember you - a fun day in oregon for sure - the change that's come to the pearly gates has deprived newbies of a more aesthetic finish to the hill i reckon

[l0930]

It's steep enough to almost make it exciting up there for newbies! Wasn't expecting that when I took someone up a month ago with no rope, one tool, and no experience... He sure was stoked to get to the top though!

[Chad_A]

any word on those pics?

[dmuja]

Where the first and only real pitch of climbing began.....from the top of the first pitch to the top is all just easy 60 degree slopes to the top

 

I guess even "easy" 60 degree slopes are no longer "real climbing"??? Silly chest beating imo

 

 

Good TR and climb though, nice job!