n00b ice

[counterfeitfake]

Let's say you're an ice n00b. Like so:

 

 

Where do you want to go this coming weekend?

 

Needs to be within a reasonable drive from Seattle. I'm hoping for easy leading or toproping. Leavenworth, Vantage, Banks Lake... it's so cold it seems like it will all be in, so I guess I'm more wondering about specific climbs.

[Weekend_Climberz]

Make sure to get the WA Ice book. Some good TR's at Banks:

 

Trosky's Folly WI3-4 (below and left of the Devil's Punchbowl)

Upper half (or full if you tie two ropes together) of Zenith WI5

Children of the Sun WI5 (sweet telephone pole belay )

The Cable WI5 (two ropes)

Champagne WI5 (two ropes)

Most of the Beer climbs at Soap Lake

 

All these can be TR'd by walking around to the top, though COTS can be pratically driven to.

[John Frieh]

Disclaimer: I am still very much learning how to ice climb... my thoughts are based on my experiences to date as well as watching others learn how to climb... but still: I'm no expert or anywhere close.

 

But yeah... if you are true n00b or just someone looking for improvements in ice climbing find a TRable WI3 and work on your footwork. Seems every time I look at the ice forum or the gear critic people are regurgitation what they read in some climbing magazine about different tools that they may have picked up in the store once. Swinging a tool is one part of ice climbing and if anything much much less important than good footwork... another way to look at it is WI5 has been climbed with straight wooden shaft general mtneering ice axes... if you have good technique (feet and swing dynamics) what tools you own won't matter.

 

Hyalite is a long drive but worth it if you ask me. You could get a TR on Mummies 1 or G1 and run laps over and over and over and over till you can't wipe the frozen snot off the end of your nose.

 

Other closer options might be Mazama (short drive long ski) or Bluewood Ice. I bet they have some options like this up in BC... I don't know the area that well so I hesitate to suggest anything... perhaps Mr Serl or Dru could...?

 

Getting on a WI5 as a n00b (or even a 4) is just going to teach you bad habits and put the fear of god in you so that when it does come time to get on 5s you won't because of previous negative experiences (read rock warriors way for more info).

 

So yeah... TR a 3 or 3+ and use only one tool... this will force you to learn how to stem things (very important at any grade) and drop your heels.

 

Think about your swing but don't over think/focus on it. Ice climbing is no different than rock in that if you learn to use your feet and position your body you will get much much much higher than if you just do a bunch of one arms.

 

And one last thing... get over this driving thing... if it is just this weekend that is cool but if you refuse to drive more than 4 hours for ice you might as well sell your toolz now because face it: we live in WA... a gym membership would be a better investment than ice toolz. And the more time on ice you get the better you will get which mean driving. Find some motivated individuals with cash for gas and car pool car pool car pool!

 

Have fun!

[fenderfour]

I would stop wearing ski boots to ice climb.

[DPS]

 

And one last thing... get over this driving thing... if it is just this weekend that is cool but if you refuse to drive more than 4 hours for ice you might as well sell your toolz now because face it: we live in WA... a gym membership would be a better investment than ice toolz. And the more time on ice you get the better you will get which mean driving. Find some motivated individuals with cash for gas and car pool car pool car pool!

Amen to that brother.

[Weekend_Climberz]

Getting on a WI5 as a n00b (or even a 4) is just going to teach you bad habits and put the fear of god in you so that when it does come time to get on 5s you won't because of previous negative experiences (read rock warriors way for more info).

 

I disagree with that. This ice newb has been on several WI5 lines this year (TR of course) and if you are a strong 5.10 climber there really is no reason to TR a route of this grade. It's true that you probably should think twice about leading something like this, but immersion is the best method for learning (at least for me) IMHO.

 

I would stop wearing ski boots to ice climb.

 

Climbing with mine over the weekend worked fine. Only one question, does climbing with one loose crampon "up" the grade any?

[John Frieh]

Getting on a WI5 as a n00b (or even a 4) is just going to teach you bad habits and put the fear of god in you so that when it does come time to get on 5s you won't because of previous negative experiences (read rock warriors way for more info).

 

I disagree with that. This ice newb has been on several WI5 lines this year (TR of course) and if you are a strong 5.10 climber there really is no reason to TR a route of this grade. It's true that you probably should think twice about leading something like this, but immersion is the best method for learning (at least for me) IMHO.

 

If you are climbing these WI5s flawlessly and demonstrating the correct technique then I would agree with you but climbing something to the top and climbing something to the top in the best style are two very different things.

 

I suspect that you and most 5.10 climbers are fairly strong and with underdeveloped ice technique likely use strength and/or fitness to "muscle" ones way up and over compensate for lack of good technique... this happens and we are all guilty of it but it builds bad habits so when you move into leading 5s or 6s or whatever you do the same thing you learned and finally get caught with bad technique.

 

There was an excellent climber pod cast on this and discussing the difference between topping out and topping out with style... I think Marcus has it... does anyone else?

 

The example the podcast used was John Gill... his whole MO back in the day was to repeat hard problems using flawless technique... and we all know what levels he achieved.

 

I agree with immersion *assuming* you are ensuring that you are using nearly perfect technique... taking the time to learn/enforce good technique will take you much further than jumping on the hard rigs right away.

[John Frieh]

 

And one last thing... get over this driving thing... if it is just this weekend that is cool but if you refuse to drive more than 4 hours for ice you might as well sell your toolz now because face it: we live in WA... a gym membership would be a better investment than ice toolz. And the more time on ice you get the better you will get which mean driving. Find some motivated individuals with cash for gas and car pool car pool car pool!

Amen to that brother.

 

My name is John and I have a climbing/driving problem. I average 40000 miles and 1.5 speeding tickets per year. :laf:

 

See you in the hills! :snugtop:

[cappellini]

these guys are dicks..climb what you want, enjoy yourself, and stick with the ski boots if thats all you have...and by the way driving a long way to climb is a stupid waste of time, use your imagination and climb locally...when you become desparate you will find yourself falling into the driving trap, irregardless of how you feel about it now. most importantly, ignore all guidbooks and advice from sources like this place except for finding loctions of potential climbs.

[Alex]

"I'm hoping for easy leading or toproping."

 

I think Fugs Falls out at Vantage is your best bet, its got a reasonable drive, a pretty short snow-free approach, and walk-arounds to set up TRs if you dont feel like leading.

 

Otherwise I would recommend driving to Blue and Park Lakes with 2 60m ropes and go TR Champagne or Children of the Sun or something, there are some options that will keep you busy for an entire day very close to the road with no wallowing through knee-deep pow.

[Lambone]

Lillooet is pretty close to Seattle....

[Weekend_Climberz]

There was an excellent climber pod cast on this and discussing the difference between topping out and topping out with style... I think Marcus has it... does anyone else?

 

Jeez, I forgot to listen to this pod cast, man I've been missing out I guess. Fuck what do I know

[eric8]

don't drive all the way to Hylite to top rope a grade 4. Since only Alex has give you any ideas I will throw a few more out there.

 

The closest ice to Seatle is Stellar falls, if you ride the chair lift up(buy a ticket or have a pass) and ski down to it. Don't fuck up and ruin access for everyone though.

 

Elsewhere at snoqualmie pass you could try bryant buttress right. There are other routes too.

 

At leavenworth the millenium wall has a nice pitch thats reasonable to top rope. Hubba Hubba is fat right now if you want an easy lead.

 

Marble Canyon has a bunch of good top rope possiblies a longer drive though 4.5 hours.

 

You could top rope trosky's folly, zenith, the 1st pitch of shitting razorblades, and salt n peper, at banks.

 

basically buy the guidebook and get a few ideas. Most anything that normally comes in, in washington is pretty fat right now. So have at it.

 

As far as grades go. The biggest piece of advice I can give you is to ignore them. If looks reasonable try it, if you do and its to hard back off and try again another day. Ice climbing grades are so subjective its not even funny. A pitch of grade 5 thats seen 5 ascents can easly become a 4 and most routes vary a grade or so either way depending on the season.

 

Cheers, have at it!

[counterfeitfake]

There was an excellent climber pod cast on this

 

... man.

 

Re: driving- there will be times when I am willing and able to drive for 12 hours, and many more times when I am willing and able to drive for 4 hours. Of course the best ice is not found in Washington, but sometimes you make do with what you've got.

 

Re: ski boots- mostly an accident.

 

Thanks for all the advice everyone, I appreciate all of it, and I especially appreciate the advice I asked for.