[TR] Weeping Wall (Bluewood Ice) - 1/13/2007

[Jamin]

Trip: Weeping Wall (Bluewood Ice) -

 

Date: 1/13/2007

 

Trip Report:

The weeping wall is located about 17 miles or so from Dayton. I was tired of the thin, unsafe ice around Pullman so I made the drive. The wall is in pretty good shape although it is a good bit drippy. The ten degree lows that we have been experiencing should take care of that in about a week. I was unable to do any completely vertical ice because I did not have a partner. I did do about 20 feet of a nice wall to the right of the freestanding pillars. There are a bunch of large stalactites that will probably become columns later.

 

I used prusiks to protect the climb after toproping. They worked very well when I fell. However, I was unable to finish the entire pitch because it was neccessary to use both hands to slide the prusik up the rope, which was difficult because the prusik often froze to the rope and because the wall was completely vertical at the top. I can sort of see now why prusiks are not used to climb solo. You really cannot do anything more than fourth class with them as pro.

 

Approach Notes:

From Dayton, take 4th street and drive about 17 miles along the North Fork Touchet after you leave Dayton. The ice is to your left. It is difficult to see so keep a lookout for it.

[kurthicks]

I'm glad that you didn't die.

 

we will be going there soon, so if you want to actually learn how to ice climb you are welcome to come with us.

[brian_m]

Sounds like a fun time...

 

 

 

 

 

I mean, Yardsale.

[Weekend_Climberz]

[catbirdseat]

Time to get yourself a solo device. Regarding your prusiks, you could have hung a bag of rocks from the end of the rope for the weight and it would have been possible to use one hand to slide the knots. I hope you were using two of them.

[NYC007]

but that would take some sense...wouldnt it?

[Alpinfox]

Time to get yourself a solo device...

 

I've never tried it, but I'd be pretty leery of using a solo device for ice. I'd be worried about ice getting in there and jamming up the works.

 

That said, I applaud this guys motivation. Time to find a partner though.

[G-spotter]

Maybe Jamin can team up with DonnyBaker. Swear to god the two of them would be a beautiful synergy!

[billcoe]

Time to get yourself a solo device...

 

I've never tried it, but I'd be pretty leery of using a solo device for ice. I'd be worried about ice getting in there and jamming up the works.

 

That said, I applaud this guys motivation. Time to find a partner though.

 

Likewise.

 

I followed this from another thread. Hey, I use to use a single Jumar to TR solo and it never was a problem. I once saw Wayne1112 doing it on a short (50'-60' or so) what folks call a 5.11c about the same era. We all survived it (wasn't on ice though). Sometimes I still do it, despite having more solo devices than any single human would ever need.

 

But Jamin, you might consider hanging with some real old dudes and check out their schtick so you can shorten your learning curve and reduce your potential risk of death and dismemberment.