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kevbone

The Optimists?

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You armchair wankers who bring up this kind of crap are idiots, plain and simple. Claiming some beat-out choss seam is somehow being ruined by bolts, or that the people who have freed it are unqualified to make the call as to whether it will take gear...you do not get it. You are trying to criticize people who are pushing the limits of this sport and climbing things in a style you cannot even begin to comprehend, and whimpering about how you aided this pile once and so you should have a say. No. When your inept aid attempt qualifies as a worthwhile advance in climbing standards, you might have something to say; until then, stick to beating your forehead with your wall hammer until you have the sense to shut your drooling yap.

 

Love,

Dr. Flash Amazing

:lmao: :LMAO: :lmao: :LMAO:

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You armchair wankers who bring up this kind of crap are idiots, plain and simple. Claiming some beat-out choss seam is somehow being ruined by bolts, or that the people who have freed it are unqualified to make the call as to whether it will take gear...you do not get it. You are trying to criticize people who are pushing the limits of this sport and climbing things in a style you cannot even begin to comprehend, and whimpering about how you aided this pile once and so you should have a say. No. When your inept aid attempt qualifies as a worthwhile advance in climbing standards, you might have something to say; until then, stick to beating your forehead with your wall hammer until you have the sense to shut your drooling yap.

 

Love,

Dr. Flash Amazing

 

 

Really, and what are you for responding to this "crap"?

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:laf:

 

Smith and bolting ethics. Come on. :laf: :laf: :laf: :laf:

 

Seriously, you're killing me. Make the pain stop.

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:laf:

 

Smith and bolting ethics. Come on. :laf: :laf: :laf: :laf:

 

Seriously, you're killing me. Make the pain stop.

 

Very true!

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since when is a single pitch 14b advancing the standards of climbing?

 

When it's a "last great problem" of ~20 years standing that defeated all the hotshots of the day, starting from Watts in the mid-80s to right up to two years ago, until some short girl sent it and upstaged them all? In the process making the hardest FA by a North American woman?

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since when is a single pitch 14b advancing the standards of climbing?

 

When it's a "last great problem" of ~20 years standing that defeated all the hotshots of the day, starting from Watts in the mid-80s to right up to two years ago, until some short girl sent it and upstaged them all? In the process making the hardest FA by a North American woman?

 

Well said.

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since when is a single pitch 14b advancing the standards of climbing?

 

When it's a "last great problem" of ~20 years standing that defeated all the hotshots of the day, starting from Watts in the mid-80s to right up to two years ago, until some short girl sent it and upstaged them all? In the process making the hardest FA by a North American woman?

 

if Watts bolted it in the mid 80s why is it included in the 93 guide as an aid climb... for somereason i thought they bolted it late 90s.

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if Watts bolted it in the mid 80s why is it included in the 93 guide as an aid climb... for somereason i thought they bolted it late 90s.

 

Interesting?

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it was listed as an aid climb in the the 92 watts guidebook because no one had freed it yet.

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it was listed as an aid climb in the the 92 watts guidebook because no one had freed it yet.

 

Thanks Mark.....is there a way to find out exactally when it was bolted? On the video of Beth leading it....the bolts did not appear to be from the 80's. They looked alot newer. But what do I know.

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it was listed as an aid climb in the the 92 watts guidebook because no one had freed it yet.

 

I just dont understand why hed still list the first pitch as A3

 

"Aid a series if pin scars past several bolts into a left facing corner. Belway beneath the big roof"

 

From what I can tell on route there where 3 original mid pitch bolts... now theres 9 or so... oh well

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From what I can tell on route there where 3 original mid pitch bolts... now theres 9 or so... oh well

 

so its been retroed. Who did that?

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From what I can tell on route there where 3 original mid pitch bolts... now theres 9 or so... oh well

 

so its been retroed. Who did that?

 

Well ya... from what I can tell/know/heard there where 3 original 1/4's from the aid FA (1967 Seve Heim & Jim Nieland) then in the late 90's Brook Sandahl bolted it to try and free it. Mark probably knows more than I do...

 

Another disucssion point I thought of... Why didn't they TR it first then bolt in when they felt good enough and sure enought that they could lead it. On any sport route I put up I TR the hell out of it before bolting the lead bolts, making sure I can make the imgainary clips and so on, though I climb at no where near that level of Watts and others. I guess its that kinda mentality at Smith that gets to me... oh it looks hard lets bolt it, with out even giving it a sold TR effort. I mean shit walk around smith... how many abandoned projects can you see?

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Did this person also try to free it?

 

no man, he didn't. shit i'm just fuckin with ya, and now i feel all bad and shit. glenn anzalone is friggin danzig, and i doubt he's ever even been to smith rocks.

go ahead, put up my pic again.

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what it comes down to is most of you guys on this board (not all but most) have nothing better to do than put down other people's accomplishments. there's nothing wrong with aiding at all but when someone free's something, bolted or not, the person who aided it should give it up to that person because he climbed it in a better style. I agree that it's obviously better to use passive pro than drill if possible but you can't get pissed about every bolted climb you see. sport climbing is a major part of this sport and like it or not that's just the way it is. If I were u guys I would stop wasting my time bitching and go out and enjoy climbing however you see fit.

 

cheers

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better style.

 

What the F....is that supposed to mean. That is entirley your opinion.

 

 

wasting my time

 

WTF... who's time is being wasted? You are the one responding! Quit wasting my time. Bro.

 

We are having a discusion on bolting old aid lines. Its is not dissing on anybody's accomplishments. Heray for those who have freed it. Question: If the someone (anybody) aided a line in Yosemite, then someone else came in and bolted it later, then much later someone freed it, would this even have gotten to this point, because the “retro bolts” would not have been allowed to stay. FA are respected there. Apparently not at smith. Or maybe the person who retroed it got permission.

Edited by kevbone

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thank you; i feel soothed.

 

Try shaving, it sooths me. And that hair bro...you got to do something with that hair.

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