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[TR] Jabberwocky Tower - East Face 12/30/2007


scottgg

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Trip: Jabberwocky Tower - East Face

 

Date: 12/30/2007

 

Trip Report:

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Sunrise at Camp 1

 

After a leisurely breakfast of cold cereal, fresh fruit, and strong coffee, we left our friends house in Leavenworth and headed up the Icicle. The Home Fires Bakery is no longer open, so it was with half full bellies and very full packs that we headed up the gated road leading to Stuart Lake Trailhead. We were soon cruising on fresh tracks, happily wondering if they would take us all the way to Colchuck Lake, or just to the cutoff. Well, they didn’t even stretch to the trailhead, and we were soon swapping trail breaking duties through disconcertingly deep snow. But the weather was nice, and the air cold, so spirits were high.

 

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We reached a nice camp on the south side of Colchuck Lake the next afternoon, and promptly headed up the Colchuck Glacier to check out routes on Dragontail north-westerly face. I never once saw the sun light up the face, and the air was quite cool, so none of the snow on the face had melted. So after giving up on our Plan B, Mark mentioned that Jabberwocky Tower could make a nice Plan C (or was it F).

 

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My brother Luke had been getting progressively sicker throughout our trip, and his misery-meter pegged out when we woke up the next morning. But he dug deep, and started leading us toward a large gully south of The Tower. The snow was nice and compact, in sharp contrast to the bottomless fluff on north-facing slopes, and we soon gained a notch below Jabberwocky’s east face.

 

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Luke coming up the gully

 

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Luke belaying Scott on first pitch

 

 

My paper beat Mark’s rock, so I headed up the first pitch until stopped by a large rock teetering precariously directly in my path. I launched it off, freaked out Mark and Luke, and then continued up to a belay below the Final Headwall!!

 

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Luke following

 

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Mark enjoying the first pitch

 

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Crux

 

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Yee-Haw!

 

 

Mark took the sharp end, fashioned some aiders, and mantled up onto the summit!

 

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Luke and Mark on Top

 

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Luke on Summit

 

 

On the hike out, north of the lake, we discovered a sweet wall with discontinuous ice lines across its breadth. Mark led a cool line, and then we did some top-roping before hiking out. Defiantly has “destination crag” potential.

 

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Great weather and awesome partners! Mark was a great teacher, and was upbeat, and funny. Luke had a big heart, and kept persevering. I love going to the mountains with both of ‘em!

 

Edited by scottgg
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Great trip guys! My wife bought Home Fires Bakery and will reopen it at Prey's Fruit Barn just east of Leavenworth in February. Come check it out. No reason to go into the high back country hungry.

 

I have fond memories of the home fires as a kid. "are we there yet? when do we get to the bakery???"

 

definitely post something when you get it back open :tup:

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Great trip guys! My wife bought Home Fires Bakery and will reopen it at Prey's Fruit Barn just east of Leavenworth in February. Come check it out. No reason to go into the high back country hungry.

 

Wow Kyle. Interesting turn of events. Good for you!!

 

The old location was way cool though.

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The old location along the Icicle was great. The previous owners decided to make that place their home. The new location at Prey's Fruit Barn along Highway 2 just on the outskirts of Leavenworth will be very convenient.

 

So, since you'll be working there on the w/ends, it doesn't leave you much time for climbing. Bummer!

 

 

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