kurthicks Posted December 29, 2006 Posted December 29, 2006 (edited) Trip: Banks Lake - Brush Master II, WI4+, 5.7 (FA) Date: 12/28/2006 Trip Report: What do you do at Banks when it's not "in"? You go mixed climbing. Today Matt (NYC007) and I established a new route that is mentioned as a "rumor of ice" in the Washington Ice Guide. It is located between "The Cable" and "H202". We named the route "Brush Master" after it's slight resemblance to Mixed Master (which we just climbed last week). We found no traces of prior ascents. The route starts on fractured basalt, by the road, left of the ice runnel to gain a snowy ledge. Traverse out right to the icicles and ascend the brushy ramp, protected with many many crappy knifeblades, to thicker ice above. I belayed after about 50m, just after the first ice step (yellow/gray aliens helpful). The last 50' of ice were sunbaked and partially detached, but the sun was shining and it was a great, although quite technical, pitch. After that, one double rope rappel from the now slung bush brought us back to the ground. A nice little mixed route. Brush Master (click for topo) Me leading the first mixed crux Higher up on the sun baked and detached pillar. A good day out "Brush Master" II, 65M WI4+, 5.7 FA: Kurt Hicks, Matt Cusack Gear Notes: An arsenal of knifeblades (8 or so) small cams #1 or 2 camalot (optional for last pitch) a couple screws & screamers slings double ropes to rappel Approach Notes: Park about 100m south of H202. Edited December 29, 2006 by kurthicks Quote
brian_m Posted December 29, 2006 Posted December 29, 2006 Great TR! Thanks for the great beta and pics! Way to get it on when things just aren't "in"! Quote
Alex Posted December 29, 2006 Posted December 29, 2006 nice work you two. looks cool. can you email details re: where its at milepost wise? Quote
powderhound Posted December 29, 2006 Posted December 29, 2006 Looks like that early season training has paid off. Way to go man. Quote
KingsMM Posted December 29, 2006 Posted December 29, 2006 Sweet! That makes me look like a wimp and i though i was cool when i did my first ice lead (Devils Punch bowl) today. Quote
kurthicks Posted December 29, 2006 Author Posted December 29, 2006 where its at milepost wise? This is the climb between The Cable and H2O2. We did our best to clean the brush at the belays and on route, but it is still a little prickly. I think a couple more ascents will result in less brush on the ramp, thus resulting in more ice (since it won't be taken up by the bushes). Also, cleaning the cattails from the ledges will definately help increase the ice. Quote
Weekend_Climberz Posted December 29, 2006 Posted December 29, 2006 Sweet! Who's gonna finish off that large flow south of Zenith?? Quote
kurthicks Posted December 29, 2006 Author Posted December 29, 2006 go about your business... nothing to see out at Banks anyways. Quote
Weekend_Climberz Posted December 29, 2006 Posted December 29, 2006 It would be sweet if the chimney down low would ice up, but it should still be able to go in a moderate M grade. Quote
powderhound Posted December 30, 2006 Posted December 30, 2006 (edited) Sweet! Who's gonna finish off that large flow south of Zenith?? Anyone wanna give me a belay. Or take me over there. Edited December 30, 2006 by powderhound Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.