Best bets for ice close to Seattle?

[Jason_Formo]

Hi,

 

I'm new to the area (and fairly new to ice climbing) and am looking for an area close to Seattle that has some top ropeable or easily leadable ice. We're looking at going out for one or two days the 28-30th. Any suggestions on areas, climbs, what is in, etc. would be appreciated.

 

Thanks,

 

Jason

[Weekend_Climberz]

Go up to Snoqualmie Pass. It may or may not be in, but if you bring your ski's you'll still have a good time. Park at Alpental on the north side of the valley and hike up the summer trail and after about 15 minutes you'll see some falls on the right. If not in, rip some turns up the valley farther above source lake. :tup:

[Jason_Formo]

Thanks WC,

 

Any one know if Alpental ice is in? Seems like its been fairly cold up there, but not for long.

 

Any other suggestions? ice reports? I don't mind driving a couple hours...I just don't want to get skunked.

 

Cheers,

 

jason

[Alex]

Its a longer drive, but PanDome falls at Mt Baker ski area would be a slightly more reliable bet than Alpental Falls. Again, bring your skis and enjoy some turns should it not be in.

 

There also might be ice around Leavenworth that might be in, but its weather and temp dependent. Leavenworth is a really nice place to fart around for 2 days, though, in the winter, your time will not be wasted regardless of whether you get much ice climbing in.

 

Climbing ice around here really is a matter of hitting a good window, and those are not predictable. Best bet is to mine this site for information just a day or two before you head out here, and see what people have been climbing.

[Alpinfox]

 

Buy THIS BOOK.

 

Hubba Hubba falls at Leavenworth would be a good first ice climb.

 

Alpental could be good too.

 

 

[Alex]

Thanks Pax. Yeah, buy the book!!!

 

I'd point you to the http://www.wastateice.net website, but its still busted. Argh!

[TrogdortheBurninator]

The millenium wall, described in Alex's book, would be a good bet too. Maybe spend one day there, then climb Hubba Hubba the next day. Millenium wall can be toproped (come in wide from the left to set the TR, otherwise you will do some difficult scrambling), but you must lead Hubba Hubba.

 

The main alpental falls area is not in right now, although there is ice further up valley.

 

It should stay cold enough for the next week that Banks lake will still be in a good shape too.

[Jason_Formo]

Thanks for the link on the book!

 

I checked wastateice earlier today and was bummed it wasn't up yet. Do you have an ETA on it being up?

 

 

[Weekend_Climberz]

Thanks Pax. Yeah, buy the book!!!

 

I'd point you to the http://www.wastateice.net website, but its still busted. Argh!

 

I keep forgetting, am I suppose to call you or you call me??

[Alex]

I was working on it, and actually had a new, working site on my laptop complete with an online version of the guide, new photos, new routes, etc, but never FTP'ed it to the new host and I had to re-build my laptop this past week and lost that work.

 

I will get something up there in the coming weeks, but its been slow going.

[Jason_Formo]

So Leavenworth in then? Sounds like a good bet. What is the approach like?

 

Where is Banks Lake?

 

Alex, good luck with the site, your work will be appreciated!!!

[TrogdortheBurninator]

Things can change, but AFAIK M. Wall and Hubba Hubba are in. When I was there last, most of the roadside ice was not formed, but that could have changed.

 

Banks is located north ~1.5-2 hrs north of moses lake. Again, it is in the book.

[johnson]

Hey Jason - we did Hubba Hubba about 2 weeks ago. It was a bit thin but do-able for sure. Watch for avi danger.

[cynicalwoodsman]

Alex K's book is a good idea. I especially like the part where it's explained that, basically, PNW ice can be had, but the flows don't usually come in for long and rarely get fat (making a broad sweeping generalization here).

 

Make a habit of watching the weather... closely, and for lenthy periods of time. The temps in Leavenworth have been better than normal for a good bit, but the daytime highs 'r gettin' to be a bit warm maybe. The north-facing stuff might be good. Anyone know?

 

There's roadside ice in Leavenworth up the Icicle Canyon at Rainbow falls and Coreno. Although they require a WI3 leader and would be very difficult if not impossible to TR. I am unsure about what's farther up the canyon as far as TR-ability.

 

Depending on where you just moved from you may find this season to be more of an education and insight as to what to look for next year and where. I moved here from the NE a few years ago and realized that I am spoiled. New England ice comes in for longer periods of time because it's just plain colder for longer.

We used to have to wait til mid-morning just for the temps to get above zero. Boy oh boy I miss the 'Dacks, but I can say that while they're still waiting for cold weather I climbed ice in Oregon a few days ago! Go figure. And I wasn't whackin' dinner plates off the route all day either. What a treat! Plastic ice DOES exist!

 

Get the book! And plan to spend more time driving and scouting routes than you will climbing them. But when ya find the stuff in it's worth it!

[Jason_Formo]

Has anyone checked out Alpental recently?

[Bug]

Be aware that the heavy holiday traffic can trap you on I90 for hours.

[Jason_Formo]

Thanks.... has anyone seen if anything is in there?

Edited December 29, 2006 by Jason_Formo

[DirtyHarry]

All those falls across from ALpental aren't really in. There's too much snow there now anyway.

[Jason_Formo]

I just found that out. Ended up doing some sweet mixed snow and rock lines. Looks like it will be fun when it comes in and super close.

 

Thanks though.

[dbconlin]

Chair Peak is in. More mixed/alpine than ice per se, 3rd pitch of the NF route is a little hairy right now.