Canadian Rockies Update

[Jens]

Cold temps but game is on.

Parkway: Weeping wall right and left in. Center, and sniviling gully still forming. Weeping pillar forming fast.

Polar circus: In, lots of new snow covering lower angle ice down low. Anchors buired.

Haffner: In. Go easy on the icicles though to give em a chance.

Ghost: Numerous in. Big Hill snowy though

Gibraltar wall: In. No chains needed on road in. Somebody bring their power drill back to that place- their are some huge roofs.

________

Safety: The cold temps are causing some pillars and daggers to snap off. Stay off the free hangers for a few more days until it warms up. We saw some pretty big snaps. Took a picture of the thermometer in canmore at -14F with a stout wind and no sun. Climbs at higher elevations gave us -20F temps with gale winds and no sun.

Avy: Significant wind deposition accompanied with new dry snow which will need to be watched. Terrain anchoring still good due to early season shallow snow depths.

 

 

[G-spotter]

Did you read on gravsports.com about the party nearly getting killed on Louise Falls when the curtain snapped?

[Weekend_Climberz]

A nice 10x30 foot free hanger broke off of GBU while we were trying to get the wheels to spin again after having the E-brake freeze up. Pretty impressive. Some pics soon

[UW_climber]

Sorry theres not more pictures, too cold so the camera hardly worked + we were pretty lazy. Thanks for the great trip guys!

-Jesse

 

 

 

 

 

 

[rat]

if that's your rig and that's the bottom of gbu, you might want to read this:

 

http://climbersaccess.ab.ca/content/view/47/38/

 

it might be nice to put this link at the top of the forum page.

[Weekend_Climberz]

This was one thing that we were concerned about, but there were at least three other local rigs out there. There is absolutely no signage indicating any closures at any point on the road. Out logic was that the locals know best, so we followed their lead.

[catbirdseat]

That sounds like "herd mentality" to me. Dangerous way of thinking.

[Weekend_Climberz]

So then, without any signage or other notification other than a website (which one may or may not have access to), what would you suggest?

 

We deduced they worked everything out since there was no mention of it from the locals we talked to combined with the lack of signage. Elementary dear Watson, elementary...

[jmace]

Sounds like there is signage, at least at the time of the posting.

 

Never the less a quick glance at the bulletin you woulda seen this

For the time being please participate as a responsible element of the climbing community and park at Junction 39. It is possible to skirt the first 2 fords of the river on the left via old trails. As of present it isn't possible to get to STD crag or GBU / Valley of the Birds without wading / walking through the Ghost River. CASA is working to get approval from SRD on some sort of foot bridge to access the GBU area, temporary or otherwise, for this winter.

 

Considering its a 250$ fine you may want to drop the pic of your car..

 

Looks like fun, cant wait for this weekend

 

Bulletin

 

 

[Weekend_Climberz]

We spent about 10 minutes at the bulletin reading and there was no mention what so ever of any closures.

[jmace]

Fair enough..its new so im sure it will take some time to get everyone up to speed

 

Cheers

[Weekend_Climberz]

I just want everyone to know that we did follow what was posted and we saw no notice. So, if this closure is still in effect maybe one of the local climbers from the board could post a huge red notice on the bulletin that is very obvious. I know ignorance is no excuse, but it seems even the locals had no knowledge either.

 

Regardless, it was an awesome and beautiful area and while I was there I picked up some trash and tat that was laying around the base of the climbs. We had plenty of time while we waited for our brakes to unfreeze so we could drive back out.

[UW_climber]

I highly doubt that just because a website says its closed means we'll get a ticket. Like Weekend_Climberz said there was no notice on the board or anywhere on the drive in & the Canadians we had talked to said they have been driving back there more than a few times, so don't worry about it.

 

If you're scared then hike in.

[rat]

it wasn't my intention rag on you guys. however, the issue has been discussed on live-the-vision and at least one canadian mentioned the potential for yanks and others to not know of, or ignore, the restrictions. i was just trying to, as jmace described, get everyone up to speed (i actually posted this link a week or two ago but it was never pinned to the top of the forum page).

 

glad you had a fun trip.

[dbb]

It seemed pretty clear when this was loudly annouced over a month ago that there would be no signage:

 

There currently is no and probably will be no further signage indicating that this location is the end of the public vehicular access into the Ghost River Drainage. Rightly or wrongly SRD had decided that it is the responsibility of Ghost recreational users to glean this information preemptively from the SRD website or the SRD kiosks that are located at the main entry points to the Ghost and Waiparous watercourses.

 

but it sounds like they took the notice down from the SRD kiosk?

 

I'd say it's not about being "scared" of a ticket, it's about respecting the land managers so that we continue to have access in the future.

[Weekend_Climberz]

There currently is no and probably will be no further signage indicating that this location is the end of the public vehicular access into the Ghost River Drainage. Rightly or wrongly SRD had decided that it is the responsibility of Ghost recreational users to glean this information preemptively from the SRD website or the SRD kiosks that are located at the main entry points to the Ghost and Waiparous watercourses.

 

This just seems like a recipe for disaster. The last thing I want to do is risk getting it closed for all. There needs to a more visual indication that there are closures in effect and where they begin. Maybe that's just the lazy yank in me, but it seems the locals also are not aware of any closures. Somebody buck up and post an F'n sign for Christ sake. I know a group headed up there in a week, maybe I'll have a sign made and give it to them to post.

[jmace]

that would probably be a wicked idea...it sounds as if the onus is on us to know the rules

[Chad_A]

I just saw this thread, and sent the SRD an email asking them (in a very nice way) about the signage, and how the new access rules are supposed to be known other than their website, if the kiosks are missing the information. I mentioned that I was an ice climber, and that I was looking to maintain access to the area, and added that I would gladly follow the rules, so long as they were made known. When they reply, I'll post it up here.