Favorite climbs!!!!

[MCash]

WA Crack - Breakfast of Champions

WA Sport - the 10C pitch on Dark Rhythm

 

OR Crack - Karate Crack

OR Face - Wedding Day

 

ID Crack - Bloody Fingers

ID Face - None

[motomagik]

Yes, I meant West face NEWS, that last pitch is the best crack pitch I have ever climbed, loved it!

[Cobra_Commander]

ID Face - None

 

Come on now, Tribal Boundaries, Cairo, Redtail, etc, etc, etc...

[Christian_Knight]

Mixed: Fifth Force (Index lower town wall)

[Jens]

how about calling this "Favorite rock climbs!!!"

WA trad- Outer Space or ROTC @ leavenworth

WA sport- Technorigine or something at the drip wall or rattlesnake rock @leavenworth

OR sport- Vomit launch or Monkey space

OR trad- Karate crack

[kevbone]

Man, after reading what others thought. I have forgoten a lot of great climbs I have done.

Breakfast of champions - Index. Great climb.

 

How about the best 10- in WA: Blownout - Beacon Rock! Anyone done this climb? 105 feet of beautiful climbing.

[Farrgo]

Ya blownout is incredible, sustained great climbing. If you kick it up solid 10, I think blood, sweat, and smears is incredible. Long and techy, especially the pro.

[pope]

Crack climbs: Al Givler's Crack, Damnation, ROTC, Caboose, Easter Overhang, Yorkshire Gripper, Brass Balls

 

Bolt-protected climbs: Timson's Face, White Lightning, Bomb Shelter

 

Sport "climbing":

[TimL]

how about calling this "Favorite rock climbs!!!"

WA trad- Outer Space or ROTC @ leavenworth

 

How many people really think ROTC is as hard as the grade implies? In reality, it is an amazing climb, but to me it never felt that hard. I'd call it 3 or 4 grades lower.

[Tony_Bentley]

Crack: ROTC

Sport: Heavens Gate

 

Crack: ROTC

 

Trad but not quite a crack: Committed

 

Sport: Model Worker

 

What is it about 5.11c? You'd think I would pick something more about the fun factor and less about the grade. The truth is, 5.11c is the most fun!

[StreetBoss]

My favorite rock climb would have to be Dreamer. Very very fun day! Should we include Canada? I remember the first time I lead Merci me or Diedre. Those were thrilling time.

[mountainmatt]

OR Trad: Zebra Zion (Smith)

OR Sport: Magic light (short) (Smith)

 

WA Trad: Thin Fingers (Index)

WA Sport: The Overture (Deception) or Gorrilla my dreams (Index)

[TrogdortheBurninator]

WHich one is the overture? Is that the one with the long hanging chain at the roof?

[mountainmatt]

Yea, Overture has that long chain. Has a nice crux low, and then the excellent pull over the roof. Still need to get it clean

[kevbone]

AZ: Paridise Forks, many great crack climbs.

 

The Prow! one of the best cracks anywhere. 11.a.

Anyone done it?

[mateo]

or trad= goldrush

or sport= headless horseman(smith)

[colt45]

how about calling this "Favorite rock climbs!!!"

WA trad- Outer Space or ROTC @ leavenworth

 

How many people really think ROTC is as hard as the grade implies? In reality, it is an amazing climb, but to me it never felt that hard. I'd call it 3 or 4 grades lower.

Agreed, extremely "soft" for the grade (but still a great pitch!)

 

My picks:

trad-the dihedral pitch on Colchuck Balanced Rock W Face

sport-Rainy Day Woman

[pope]

how about calling this "Favorite rock climbs!!!"

WA trad- Outer Space or ROTC @ leavenworth

 

How many people really think ROTC is as hard as the grade implies? In reality, it is an amazing climb, but to me it never felt that hard. I'd call it 3 or 4 grades lower.

Agreed, extremely "soft" for the grade (but still a great pitch!)

 

There's no move harder than 10+ and if you take a rest in the middle of the pitch then that is what you climbed, a 10+. Most of the folks I've heard poo poo ROTC revealed that they did it with one hang. Many experienced crack climbers I've talked to call it 5.11c (like I remember Wallstein writing as much). I thought it was more difficult than Japanese Gardens. The year I first tried it I had flashed every 5.11 I attempted but on ROTC I couldn't squirm up the final squeez bulge (until I dispensed with a slippery wind breaker). Two years later I nailed it first try but it felt even harder. Think of any number of local popular 5.11- pitches such as Thin Fingers, Clean Crack, 1st pitch of Liberty Crack, Hot Cherry Bendover. ROTC is harder than any of these. In fact, ROTC is like having several Hot Cherry Bendover pitches stacked consecutively and tilted steeper. Hot Cherry has a reputation for spitting off "5.11 climbers".

[Drederek]

Wa crack P1 of Lovin Arms or Orange Sunshine

Wa face Manly Wham (Tenino) or Aboriginal Design (Tieton)

Or crack Last pitch Zebra-Zion

Or face Hemp Liberation or oot and aboot (Spring mtn)

But I have to add that the Split Pillar is number one by far IMAO

[mattp]

For a single pitch trad climb, I have always liked Godzilla. Maybe "real climbers" don't sully theirselves with it except as an afterthought, in the dark, with sandals on, but there is a reason it is so popular.

 

For a longer trad climb, I think Davis Holland to Lovin' Arms is the best 5.10 in WA.

 

For something a little easier, I think Midway with the original traverse 35 feet above the step-over from Jello Tower is as cool as it gets for truly moderate trad climbing.

 

For a single pitch of sport climbing, I used to really like Narlux at Vantage. It is (or was) bolted funny, with substantial runout at key points even though it has plenty of bolts, but it involved heel hooking and side pulls and things slightly out of the ordinary for 5.10 at Vantage. I haven't been on it for a few years, though.

 

For multipitch sport? Condomorphine. I know it rubs some people the wrong way, but it is a fun climb in a great setting.

 

Of course I heartily enjoy the climbing in Darrington, and I'd say Dreamer, Total Soul, Dark Rhythm, Rainman, and Jacob's Ladder are in a category all their own...

[k.rose]

For easily accessable single pitch stuff I sure like this one:

[still_climbin]

For WA cracks: The top 2 pitches of Outer Space are bliss.

 

Givler's Crack is classic and always makes me remember the good times with Al.

 

Face climbs: Nothing like Midway Direct to shake the cobwebs loose in the spring. Easy, but exhilerating.

 

Also liked the "Traverse" picth on Improbable Traverse...I never found the 5.8 move but loved the feel of the whole pitch.

 

Friction: WF of Grand Central Tower.

 

The "Nervous 5.6" pitch of SEWS SW Buttress blew out some synapses when I did it on wet lichen several weeks ago.

 

Extinct Climbs: Skin Graft Crack, Granite Point (now about 50' under water)

 

First Column Direct in the old WSU Field House.

[TimL]

how about calling this "Favorite rock climbs!!!"

WA trad- Outer Space or ROTC @ leavenworth

 

How many people really think ROTC is as hard as the grade implies? In reality, it is an amazing climb, but to me it never felt that hard. I'd call it 3 or 4 grades lower.

Agreed, extremely "soft" for the grade (but still a great pitch!)

 

There's no move harder than 10+ and if you take a rest in the middle of the pitch then that is what you climbed, a 10+. Most of the folks I've heard poo poo ROTC revealed that they did it with one hang. Many experienced crack climbers I've talked to call it 5.11c (like I remember Wallstein writing as much). I thought it was more difficult than Japanese Gardens. The year I first tried it I had flashed every 5.11 I attempted but on ROTC I couldn't squirm up the final squeez bulge (until I dispensed with a slippery wind breaker). Two years later I nailed it first try but it felt even harder. Think of any number of local popular 5.11- pitches such as Thin Fingers, Clean Crack, 1st pitch of Liberty Crack, Hot Cherry Bendover. ROTC is harder than any of these. In fact, ROTC is like having several Hot Cherry Bendover pitches stacked consecutively and tilted steeper. Hot Cherry has a reputation for spitting off "5.11 climbers".

 

I think ROTC is 11-. I felt ROTC had no hard move anywhere. Maybe one in the middle, but for me it was more the sequence of the jams. I put it down on my second go, no hangs. ROTC is pumpy and actually the business is short lived, but technical it is not. Jap Gardens and Clay are all technical with definite hard moves and cruxes. Now Clean Crack, I jumped on that again this past summer and it felt really, really hard for the grade. Anyways, no matter whaqt the grade, ROTC is one of the best single pitches in WA.

[G-spotter]

A gym climbing friend of mine onsighted Hot Cherry - back when you could climb it. She didn't hand or finger jam once, she pinched the right edge of the like it was an arete, the whole way up.

[pope]

A gym climbing friend of mine onsighted Hot Cherry - back when you could climb it. She didn't hand or finger jam once, she pinched the right edge of the like it was an arete, the whole way up.

 

Now you've got a woman as your role model.