Fav. Hood Route

[rock-ice]

Western washington provides a lot of climbing so I don't go down towords Hood very often.

Since I discovered this site I've heard or seen rather alot of disscusion about different routes. I was wondering if i could get the general concensus on whats everyone favorite hood route and why. (Sorry if this sound like a high school essay question)

Michael

[rbw1966]

My favorite depends on the conditions I've encountered when climbing the route. So far my favorite was the Sandy Headwall: beautiful sunny sky, solid verglass all the way to the summit, not another soul in sight the entire climb. So secure and ideal we didn't even bust out the rope.

 

I need to do more stuff on the north side though.

[Alex]

Sunshine!

[Billy]

Devil's Kitchen Headwall with the fixed rappels.

[wayne]

My personal favorites are any of the ice season mixed routes on Illumination Rock. There is a topo of them in Climaxe currentlyIf it cooled down , the Reid side of it would be sweet

[MtnHigh]

Devils Kitchen HW (var 1c)

Narrow ice filled gulley. Once you are in the gulley you forget that this is actually Hood because of the constriction and the WI. So very different than other features and routes on the mountain. Do it in the Fall to find good ice, some mixed. No need to rap the route. Finish the climb on the upper Wy'east route to the summit.

[iain]

Agreed. The Sandy HW feels like you are briefly passing through a whole other world and you are the only one in it. I like the sharp contrast between being alone high on the sandy to the bustle of the south side on descent. I too, need to get out on the north side more. I'll definitely be heading up Cathedral later this summer from C. Cap. Tried to do the dirt scramble later in the fall from McNeil Point last year...don't bother.

[airmoss]

rb21966 or iain,

Do you have any advice for crossing the YR for a first timer heading to the Sandy? OH says to cross at 8600, Nelson's book suggests going low around the toe.

[rbw1966]

We did it in winter so conditions were a bit different then they are now. That being said, I would recommend going low, rather than higher. Yes, there is a significant loss in elevation but its faster and simpler than going high.

 

Wear a helmet. Especially this time of year.

[mattp]

I've only done one route on Hood, but my personal favorite is Yocum Ridge. It was not very difficult in the conditions that we found it, but it was highly scenic and very exciting. When the ridge is fully rimed, I doubt there is a more fun way up that mountain.

[MtnHigh]

Yocum crossing:

 

I was up there last week and crossed lower down YR. From Illumination follow a 315 degree bearing or if YR is visable simply aim left of where the ridge dissapears below the Reid. 30 minutes from Illumination you will see a broad saddle below YR proper. The saddle is around 8000'.

 

Although you give up 600-700' the climbing is fast and very straight forward. Also, from the saddle the drop onto the Sandy is a cake walk.

 

We camped just below this saddle at a rock outcropping. Excellent spot that's sheltered from the wind. The spot will only hold about 4 bivvies or one tent.

 

Pete

[iain]

The times I've crossed it have been up high, around 9000'. That was a fairly calibrated reading, so I think we were higher than the 8600' mark. This puts you on a pretty steep snow traverse for about 30m, but eases when you get around a corner, and you gain a ridge that overlooks the Sandy G after a few hundred meters. Getting down to the Sandy G. can be slow from this elevation, there is some fairly steep downclimbing on mixed ground to a bergschrund that would need an end run now. Nothing too difficult, but it takes some time.

 

You can drop much lower where Yocum R. mellows. There is supposedly a good spot to camp if you want a two-day trip. MtnHigh was there just a short while ago. He said it was a good spot. I think he is in Alaska now, so you probably won't get a response from him. Gaining the Sandy G. from the low crossing appears to be quite easy. Obviously it is a significant elev. penalty, but is easier ground than the higher stuff. Hope that helps.

 

Good luck! Watch for rockfall off the upper buttress as you cross over to the start of the headwall.

 

-Iain

 

Just to add: I've traversed it in early May and mid-June, each time I took the upper route, encountering no problems. That would be my choice.

 

[ 05-29-2002, 12:26 PM: Message edited by: iain ]

[Downhill]

I'd prefer the chairlift if it went all the way to the top.

[iain]

Just wait a few years.

[Know_Fear]

See my trip report for Coe Glacier - early May '02. I can't believe

it doesn't see more traffic. In general the north side is much more scenic, permits aren't required, and there are no crowds. I haven't climbed the Sandy Headwall yet.

[Thrashador]

quote:

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Originally posted by Downhill:

I'd prefer the chairlift if it went all the way to the top.

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Note to all: beware of the Mt. Hood Meadows cretins and their plan to develop Cooper Spur into an uber destination resort. Check Off Piste for some solid info on the subject.