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Went back to Lightning Dome again, but this time with pre-arranged partnership!! thumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gif

 

Met wazzumountaineer and NYC007 down there Friday night, and climbed a new line with them on Saturday after upper Cretin's Corner proved to be too wet for Kurt to run it out through the pro-less stretch to the fixed pin. So we detoured left on Black Pine Variation to the top of Cretin's Corner, and 3rd classed it to the ledge that houses my old (unfinished) project next to Y Chimney. Kurt spied a line that looked possible on the far left of this ledge, and we geared up for it. I didn't do any of the heavy lifting for the FA, but I was there to supply the necessary bolt kit and shout encouragement, and serve as belay bitch. Three brand new pitches later, we were standing on top of the Dome. The UberDuo called it hard 5.9, with lots of cleaning required. A single bolt was placed on lead with a hand drill early on the second pitch to link a traverse from a crack system to a lieback arch, and a knifeblade was placed near the top of the same pitch, also on lead, as well as all the wire brushing and gardening, true to the established area ethic. They're still thinking of a name for it.

 

On Sunday, the WunderKinder did another new line through a roof at the Road Warrior area, and we watched as pup on the mountain and his partner got waaaaaaaaaaay off-route on Sticky Fingers and verified that the "possible traverse" over to upper Brown Sugar does in fact go. We can fix that little inaccuracy in the guidesheet now... yellaf.gif

 

Then we did some vertical bolted slab at the roadside upstream, and repeated a forgotten roof further up the road. Then we all shuffled back downstream and did Midnight Fright and the first pitch of Fat Albert to call it a weekend. I got a TR from Kurt so I could prove to myself that this fat old geezer could still do Fats Waller, a steep 5.10 slab, even if I can't see my toes when I stand up!

 

I had a great weekend with these two. They rockband.gif and can climb some pretty hard shit while still being hungover. Ahhh, youth...

 

Und ve all hat a gut time und it vas uber fun, ya! Acknowledged!

Posted

Lightning Dome was awesome again this weekend.

 

Here's the new line in the Road Warrior Area. "Toecutter" 5.9**

awesome fingers through a clean granite roof. It's between Mad Max and The Road Warrior routes.

3720IMG_0535-med.JPG

 

The forgotten roof crack at powerpole 31.4, now dubbed "Diamond in the Rough" 5.10***. NYC007 following the lead.

3720diamond_in_the_rough-med.JPG

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