Large Cam recommendations WC#5 or BD#5 ???

[ericb]

I'm interested in buying a big crack cam, and having a hard time deciding between the #5 BD C4 and #5 Technical Friend. It looks like price/weight/range is pretty close with the Wildcountry a little cheaper, lighter, smaller. I've seen reviews that said WCs were the most stable for big cracks, and others that say the same about BD...thoughts? Any experiences on the relative strength/stability?

[RuMR]

BD's and VG's...

 

wild country's suck...

[catbirdseat]

Friends

 

#5 Red 84-136 mm, 346 g

#6 Green 116-194 mm, 533 g

 

Camalots

 

#5 Purple 85-150 mm, 381 g

#6 Green 114-195 mm, 557 g

[OlympicMtnBoy]

I haven't had any experience with the C4 #5, but the old ones were definately less stable on the big end than the WC tech friends. I had the fortunate/unfortunate time of aiding up an overhanging squeeze chimney/offwidth in Kyrgyzstan with only a BD#5 and WC #6 to leap frog. Given, the WC #6 was a bit bigger, but it was also way more secure when pulling sideways as I tried to slither up the wider side of the chimney with the cam placed in the back. I still like my camalots in the smaller sizes though, and like I said, that was pre-C4.

[fern]

the double axle design defends the BD individual cam lobes from getting into weird tipped or twisted configurations. The big C4s are more stable than the old design (longer cam axle), check online stores and you can often find them 10-20% discount which will make them cheaper than the inferior WCs

[ericb]

yep...all set on the stats....looking for input on practical performance. RuMR....any reasons why you feel this way. How do I know you are not just a viral marketing mole on BDs payroll.

[catbirdseat]

the double axle design defends the BD individual cam lobes from getting into weird tipped or twisted configurations. The big C4s are more stable than the old design (longer cam axle), check online stores and you can often find them 10-20% discount which will make them cheaper than the inferior WCs

Thanks Fern. You cut right to the chase. Longer axles = more stable.

[G-spotter]

#7 TriCam! It will wobble and scare you so much you feel like you're soloing. Then you will send out of fear. Whereas if you are walking a #6 Friend up a crack over your head you will not have any fear to spur you on and so you will flail and fail.

[G-spotter]

You can use a #7 Tricam as a belay/rappel device too.

[Alpinfox]

 

Mr. G.

 

Please post a list of climbs on which you have placed a #7 tricam.

 

[ericb]

This is exactly what Gary was talking about. Knock it off or I will suspend my involvement here and start posting my 5.5-5.7 alpine trad TRs elsewhere.

[G-spotter]

Mr. G.

 

Please post a list of climbs on which you have placed a #7 tricam.

 

 

1) Dolphin at J-Tree

2) some chimbley at the Shorter Wall, J-Tree

3) aided off one at Straiton Bluff on Sumas Mountain

4) at the top of PigPen at Harrison Bluffs

6) in the OW at the top of Corner Crack at Squamish

7) Marble Four at Marble Canyon

 

I think one or two other places but I forget where. I think there's somewhere you can place it at the bottom of Joe's Crack if you are building an anchor for teaching purposes.

[layton]

i have one of those older #7 flexi friends, when they decided to make every piece red colored.

 

anyway, it's light and i use it instead of a 4.5 camalot. BUT!....

the trigger is so goddamn small I can barely get my swollen finers around it and between the wire. it has sharp raised nubs (for blind climbers?) and hurts to squeeze it. it's so floppy that sometimes the cam lobes involute and get caught in their own trigger wires during desperate placements.

Choda Boy loves that piece

[crackers]

Please post a list of climbs on which you have placed a #7 tricam.

 

 

I have used it in several desert walls. I have also used it to defend myself from rabid french baristas in the charles degaulle airport hours before it collapsed on my gate.

[Alpinfox]

Mr. G.

 

Please post a list of climbs on which you have placed a #7 tricam.

 

 

1) Dolphin at J-Tree

2) some chimbley at the Shorter Wall, J-Tree

3) aided off one at Straiton Bluff on Sumas Mountain

4) at the top of PigPen at Harrison Bluffs

6) in the OW at the top of Corner Crack at Squamish

7) Marble Four at Marble Canyon

 

I think one or two other places but I forget where. I think there's somewhere you can place it at the bottom of Joe's Crack if you are building an anchor for teaching purposes.

 

You are a fucking madman.

 

[G-spotter]

I'm gonna belay Olyclimber on my #7 Tricam at ropeup while he eats marshmallows.