lib crack - bolted line to right?

[iain]

Noticed some bolts and a set of shiny new chains to the right of liberty crack on liberty bell, around p3. We were wondering what that was, so I'm turning to the cc.com thinktank.

[G-spotter]

Maybe it's the start of a new 20 page thread/controversy/sprayfest about rap bolting!

[olyclimber]

I'm here to post about this important topic. Perhaps it is a piece of rock that was enslaved by the impossible, and was freed by a gallant hero?

[iain]

got the low-down from the neutrino hustler via pm, thanks!

[olyclimber]

I don't think that will stop this train from continuing to the station.

[Sol]

i stumbled upon a rap-bolted line on SEWS a few weeks ago. quite over-bolted, much like condorphamine addiction route. i imagine it was put up by the same person. i'll let the bolt-choppers know where it is,just as soon as i climb it.

[RyanTriplett]

please share your findings ...

[iain]

Freedom or Death, bolted by P. Butler & E. Helmuth, freed by Wallstein & Wallstein's brother about 5 years ago. 11+ or so...

[DirtyHarry]

i stumbled upon a rap-bolted line on SEWS a few weeks ago. quite over-bolted, much like condorphamine addiction route. i imagine it was put up by the same person. i'll let the bolt-choppers know where it is,just as soon as i climb it.

 

Another Leland debacle. Free at 5.13 or so, or 5.11 C1 (or 5.7 c1, for that matter). Stupid fucking route, should be chopped.

[Sol]

Freedom or Death, bolted by P. Butler & E. Helmuth, freed by Wallstein & Wallstein's brother about 5 years ago. 11+ or so...

anybody got more beta on this route? seems like a pretty reasonable grade as far as a free line up the east face of lib bell is concerned. any beta appreciated, thanks.

sol

[iain]

Here's what Wallstein sent me about it, can't see why he wouldn't mind me posting it:

 

"the first pitch is 10+ or so. All bolted if I remember. The next two are 11+ plus the 2nd being slightly easier. the pitch that traverses into lib crack is also 5.11 and slightly runout if I remember. It traverses back into lib crack right and the last few fixed heads. I clipped them for pro and remember busting some moves above them. Some might consider it runout but the heads seemed bomber. It is a super good route and a reasonable way to free liberty bell. It was bolted by paul butler and Eli Helmuth and then it was freed by me and brother 5 or so yeas ago. You should go do it!"

 

enjoy.

[DirtyHarry]

Is Wallstein back in country?

[matt_warfield]

Seems like 11+ is well within range of Butler and Helmuth. Are we sure they didn't get the FFA of their own route?

[DirtyHarry]

Yeah Mike Schaeffer, the best rock climber in the state, just said he and his bro were the first to free it, so that probably means that Butler and Helmuth did.

 

Do you smoke PCP?

[G-spotter]

The best climber in the state is the one having the most fun.

[matt_warfield]

Yeah Mike Schaeffer, the best rock climber in the state, just said he and his bro were the first to free it, so that probably means that Butler and Helmuth did.

 

Do you smoke PCP?

 

No offense to Mike's tremendous accomplishments, but the FFA of Freedom or Death was around '98 by Eli Helmuth.

[DirtyHarry]

What's your source for that info?

[matt_warfield]

EH.

[Sol]

Thanks for the beta Matt, i'll have to give it a whirl.

[PSB]

Eli put in most of the work on this route. I think it was 1998...it could have been the year before. Originally it was two pitches which we freed, but we never did the final link up pitch with Liberty Crack. John and Mike sent the whole thing after adding a station to the second pitch because it was too long. So the first pitch goes at 5.10+ with mostly bolts, but some gear at the start especially when the snow is all gone. The second pitch is 5.11 with all bolts. The third is hard 5.11, maybe 12a, with bolts and a cam placment or two. The link up pitch under the roof sounds like it goes at 5.11 – all gear except for what is fixed on Liberty Crack.

It is a great variation – stellar climbing.

 

Paul Butler

Mazama