RuMR Posted August 27, 2006 Author Share Posted August 27, 2006 (edited) mtnfreak...piss off... When the only available thing was YC's stuff that is fine...when i drop $50 or more on something, I somewhat expect that it should do as advertised if it is placed correctly...if the rock blows, then fine, not the piece's fault. BUT, when they can't even connect the basic pieces together reliably, then claim that it was the user's fault or he's fibbing when its brought to their attention that is BULLSHIT. Secondly, when they release pieces that are marked as one size when they are another that is BULLSHIT. Thirdly, when they release another run with the axle holes completely in the wrong place that is BULLSHIT...In short, their entire operation is BULLSHIT and i suspect that the folks putting the stuff together are lighting BULLSHIT and smoking it while building these things. How hard is it to use a frickin' jig to check if the stuff is aligned?? I'm sorry, but in this case, i tend to believe the posters that they should have been able to trust that piece if they thought it was decent. They weren't noobs and knew what they were doing... You know, i think Croft once wrote that fear of falling on granite wasn't a big deal if you have a cam buried in competent granite and you aren't gonna clip anything on the way down...and so far (big knock on wood) my experience has borne this out. Edited August 27, 2006 by RuMR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris Posted August 27, 2006 Share Posted August 27, 2006 Rumr, right back at ya'... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
counterfeitfake Posted August 28, 2006 Share Posted August 28, 2006 hey fuckbag...i'm not trolling...my point is that IF THE HOLES ARE MISALIGNED BLAH BLAH... Hey douchebagger... I said there are no defects in the Alien in question, right? I'm sure that's the first thing these guys looked at when they got back from the doctor's office. They didn't say anything about it. If there was a defect they'd be screaming about it by now. So we're still back to my original question. I don't even disagree with your assessment of CCH, they seem kinda chintzy to me too. But I don't see how anyone can call this a "cam failure". I guess I'd accept that you're trolling on accident, due to the fact that your reading comprehension kinda sucks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted August 28, 2006 Share Posted August 28, 2006 Imagine back when all the climbing gear was handmade, in Y.C.'s warehouse in Ventura. This conversation would not be happening. All of you with expectations that "textbook" placements will hold 100% of the time are blowing sunshine up your skirts. Except the risk that the cable might break, the cam might walk, or the rock may fail. My only complaint with Aliens is that they are still made by hand (I've heard), and the owner refuses to upgrade to a fully automated manufacturing line, which could minimize and better identify manufacturing flaws. Rumr, quite being a dickhead. I like you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted August 28, 2006 Author Share Posted August 28, 2006 hey fuckbag...i'm not trolling...my point is that IF THE HOLES ARE MISALIGNED BLAH BLAH... Hey douchebagger... I said there are no defects in the Alien in question, right? I'm sure that's the first thing these guys looked at when they got back from the doctor's office. They didn't say anything about it. If there was a defect they'd be screaming about it by now. So we're still back to my original question. I don't even disagree with your assessment of CCH, they seem kinda chintzy to me too. But I don't see how anyone can call this a "cam failure". I guess I'd accept that you're trolling on accident, due to the fact that your reading comprehension kinda sucks. Hey idiot-douche-bag-remains, if you read my very first post i said that it may be "user -error"... Now, what were you saying about reading comprehension? Ahh that's right, you can tell from my response that i think you are an idiot... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted August 28, 2006 Author Share Posted August 28, 2006 (edited) ok...went back and read subsequent posts...it seems that there is discussions about the fact that a larger alien would have been more appropriate slightly higher than the one that pulled...sounds like an upward flaring slot?? Maybe the thing walked up as the leader moved up and opened too much... I dunno, the head-splitter at paradise forks where the guy simply weighted the piece and it fell apart still wears on me...truth be told, i have aliens but will not lob onto them and they are for aid only for me...too much negative noise in my head to really trust them... Edited August 28, 2006 by RuMR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minx Posted August 28, 2006 Share Posted August 28, 2006 rumr-- so let me ask you this--what are you choosing to use instead of aliens? not that i do or ever will climb at anywhere near the level of these guys w/the blown alien or you or most of this board--i still take a whipper or two on gear every so often. i've got aliens and have always liked them but now i worry. i'm not afraid to fall on my gear (in fact i probably trust it too much) but now i'm nervous about my beloved yellow alien. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted August 28, 2006 Author Share Posted August 28, 2006 i personally use quite a bit of different stuff, but my all time favorites are metolius TCU's and their 4CU's for free climbing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted August 28, 2006 Share Posted August 28, 2006 Clint Cummins made an excellent post in the SuperTopo thread that Rudy was referring to. It has some facts that I was not aware of. Because the Alien cams are all triggered to a single sheath, they do not expand independently. As a result, sometimes not all 4 cams will be touching the rock. This has been noted in the past (by Christopher Barrington-Leigh, I recall), and his observation was that you can work around this to some extent by *pushing* on the control bar after the cam is in place. This can help some of the cams expand if they were restricted by the single sheath. I doubt many people do this on a regular basi, and it is a step not needed with other types of cams. If the Alien had seen a fair amount of use, there could conceivably be some dirt or some scratched metal between the cams which could also prevent the cams from expanding properly. If the placement is deep like it appears to have been in this case, the problem would be hard to detect. Heck, it would be hard to detect unless the crack is horizontal and fairly shallow. My own choice is to skip Aliens and use cams which are independently triggered. Perhaps best would be a Metolius 4CU in this size (although I use TCUs myself). I will admit I own one (blue) Alien, but I only use it for aid climbing. If I climbed in the Gunks I might use them. Did Hans have a second cam in? No doubt this is ancient advice, but I always place two pieces of pro if there are hard moves right away. A single cam pulling has killed people before, like on Spiderline (JTree) within the past year. I was thinking about how one could modify the Alien design to allow independent triggering of the lobes on each side of the device. You would have to have some sort of split sheath. Or instead of a moving sheath, a fixed sheath with wires inside that linked the trigger bar directly to the lobes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted August 28, 2006 Share Posted August 28, 2006 A few comments about the route: it is very steep and the rock is a bit different from the surrounding crags but no worse and in fact better than much of the rock in the Cascades. (mountains and cragging) It is not a typical crack where you can place something almost anywhere you want. This gear “failure” seems to simply point out how uncertain anyone can be about how strong/secure a placement is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted August 28, 2006 Share Posted August 28, 2006 Dont care what the thread is about, RuMR, your still a tool! I dont believe you even climb! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted August 28, 2006 Share Posted August 28, 2006 Dont care what the thread is about, RuMR, your still a tool! I dont believe you even climb! Hi Kevin: I think that generally, these kinds of comments which don't address the subject at all but are just placed to trash a thread get put anywhere in "Spray". It helps to keep the flow of what others might feel is an important topic that is happening elsewhere off of the "spray" threads, about real subjects which are occasionally important. So an off "spray" version might be something like this: Aliens suck, I've switched to WC Zeros because they at least have a QC program. BTW RuMR, you're still a tool! I dont believe you even climb let alone spell Alein! Then put in at least one of these---> Or 2 Then somebody will come back an tell a tale of a Green Zero ripping on a 40 footer and how they will never use one again.....back and forth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted August 28, 2006 Author Share Posted August 28, 2006 Dont care what the thread is about, RuMR, your still a tool! I dont believe you even climb! kev-in-pig-shit, it is true i don't climb...but most likely, you suck so we are even... now toddle along and go find your wank friend pig and have yourself a splendid day... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted August 28, 2006 Author Share Posted August 28, 2006 oh, and bill, why don't you go have a splendid day too? In fact, why don't you go lob on some orange aliens circa 2004? cheerz! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted August 28, 2006 Share Posted August 28, 2006 (edited) see. no more topic. It can go back and forth now forever. _____________________________________________________ I had my little buddies out Saturday and used the blue, green, and yellow RUMR (had grey didn't use it once on 17 pitches) and did not have the chance to fall on any. I was too sore to climb on Sunday. (Old man syndrome I think) Edited August 28, 2006 by billcoe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted August 28, 2006 Share Posted August 28, 2006 Bill, thanks for the advice, but here on the spray cite of all spray cites, thin skin is not advisable. RuMR and a few others, decided to pick on me when I was asking about info on a climb, I approached it with a serious question. They slammed away and I realized this site sucks! The entire site sucks! Why do I keep logging on and coming back for more? Well because it’s pure entertainment. It’s better than prime time TV. Being able to make fun, and be made fun of while hiding behind our computers is pure genius. Im sure RuMR is a fine person but his log in persona blows ass. And that goes for a lot of chumps on this site. So from here out, its open season. Two can play at this game. Its called childish. And RuMR started it!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mos_Chillin Posted August 28, 2006 Share Posted August 28, 2006 (edited) Mike dropped my Yellow Alien, I miss it. Edited August 31, 2006 by Mos_Chillin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted August 28, 2006 Share Posted August 28, 2006 RuMR, you dont climb, but have knowledge of gear. You must work at REI. Are you a member? Or do you even have a member? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted August 28, 2006 Author Share Posted August 28, 2006 Bill, thanks for the advice, but here on the spray cite of all spray cites, thin skin is not advisable. RuMR and a few others, decided to pick on me when I was asking about info on a climb, I approached it with a serious question. They slammed away and I realized this site sucks! The entire site sucks! Why do I keep logging on and coming back for more? Well because it’s pure entertainment. It’s better than prime time TV. Being able to make fun, and be made fun of while hiding behind our computers is pure genius. Im sure RuMR is a fine person but his log in persona blows ass. And that goes for a lot of chumps on this site. So from here out, its open season. Two can play at this game. Its called childish. And RuMR started it!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted August 28, 2006 Author Share Posted August 28, 2006 Mike dropped my Yellow Alien, I miss it. RuMR is a whiney little Bitch, and can suck ass gravy. See how well it works when you tie it together like that? hey Mr. Wolfe...please refrain from such childish behavior... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Phil Posted August 28, 2006 Share Posted August 28, 2006 The entire site sucks! Took you 202 posts to fibure this out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted August 28, 2006 Author Share Posted August 28, 2006 RuMR, you dont climb, but have knowledge of gear. You must work at REI. Are you a member? Or do you even have a member? flyingpig'sboytoy... No, i don't know anything about gear or climbing...everything i learned about climbing i learned from this here site...swear to god i did... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted August 28, 2006 Author Share Posted August 28, 2006 RuMR, you dont climb, but have knowledge of gear. You must work at REI. Are you a member? Or do you even have a member? dear k... please post climbing resume for our perusal and awe.... sincerely, your admiring fan club... PS: Also, please be sure to include detailed topos of where cruxes are, how to approach, gear notes, length of grass on approach, approach vehicle required, clothing needed, etc. etc. etc. OTW we would not have a clue what to do... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted August 28, 2006 Share Posted August 28, 2006 Kevbone's climbing resume: Currently I have been climbing your mother. Over and over again. I would say she is about hard 4th class right now. I think a crucial hold is going to break off soon, which might raise the grade to 4 14.c. I have sent many 4th class climbs I even put up a 3rd class once. It was epic. I was on it for 5 minutes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted August 28, 2006 Author Share Posted August 28, 2006 hmmm...as i suspected...nothing spectacular...carry on folks... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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