MountainGirl_Boston Posted August 3, 2006 Share Posted August 3, 2006 I'm coming to Smith Rock for the first time end of Aug. I'd like to do Pioneer or West Face Variation. I'm just learning aid rigth now, no prior experience. I would appreciate advice on: 1. what gear I should have other my normal trad track? 2. how long is the rapel? Would two 50 meter ropes be enough? 3. any special gear my second would need? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan_forester Posted August 3, 2006 Share Posted August 3, 2006 1. aiders and a fifi hook will make the bolt ladder easy 2. pretty sure you need 2 60m ropes for the rappel 3. aiders & a fifi hook; don't bother with jumars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted August 3, 2006 Share Posted August 3, 2006 The bolt ladder is easy all you need is about 20 quick draws and each climber have a Gri Gri and off you go. Its a team effort. Clip the bolt throw your rope through it and say take and keep doing that on up. Having two ropes makes the repell easy. You can get off with one rope but it sucks. You have to rap into the mouth and rap to bond street and down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan_forester Posted August 3, 2006 Share Posted August 3, 2006 rapping into the mouth does not look easy or fun. plus you'd miss out on the best free hanging rappel ever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted August 3, 2006 Share Posted August 3, 2006 I really suggest at least useing some sort of aiders, I imagine it would make things alot easier than just trying to yard up 20 bolts on very steep rock. A biner can always be a fifi hook, tape it open if you really want. Read in freedom of the hills about the basic movement of aid climbing, if you know that it should be as straight forward as it can be. Oh and its Bohn street. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainmatt Posted August 3, 2006 Share Posted August 3, 2006 I second the above comments. The aid section is very easy with a set of aiders and a fifi to rest with. If you don't like fifi hooks, just get a biner. Your second would have the easiest time just aiding the pitch as well. You could do it wil accenders, but I think they might be more of a pain. We rapped with 2 60m ropes, can't recall if 50m ropes would work or not. Definitely do the rap over Just Do It, it is not only a great long rap, but you can see what 14c holds look like. Make sure you get a real early start (especially if you are leading the couple trad pitches below the notch). Its a great route, and coming out of the mouth is one of the best leads at Smith! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted August 3, 2006 Share Posted August 3, 2006 50 meter ropes do reach! 2 of them! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spotly Posted August 3, 2006 Share Posted August 3, 2006 My partner aided it then sent the aiders down and I did the same on TR. Worked great. Watch the wind on the rap. It was howling through the gap when we came down and had the potential for getting a pretty good spin going. We did it with 14 draws but had to be pretty creative with back-cleaning. It was my only aid but I wonder if I'd have felt better with a key lock biner instead of the fifi?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan_forester Posted August 3, 2006 Share Posted August 3, 2006 a fifi is way easier to use than a biner. I can't imagine why you'd want a locking biner? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted August 3, 2006 Share Posted August 3, 2006 The bolt ladder should only take about 10 minutes, if you do it how I suggested! Maybe a little longer. Either way, get on it early, usually a train of people. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spotly Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 a fifi is way easier to use than a biner. I can't imagine why you'd want a locking biner? Actually I meant a key gate but yer right of course, a fifi would be the ticket. Just a random intra-question - seems if a person was a bit nervous about the fifi for the first time(I was - seemed like not enough of a positive curve), that maybe a biner might feel more secure. Woulda been a pain to move though. Anyway, the fifi didn't slip off so must have been ok - right!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mos_Chillin Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 Then there is the flipper move INTO the cave (not actually the monkey's mouth, BTW: the mouth is on the West side), have fun with that! And I agree, the move out of the cave is some of the airiest 5.8 moves you will ever experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 the move out of the cave is some of the airiest 5.8 moves you will ever experience. Though easily aided as well if it gets to you. Or keep going further right for a killer 5.8 sport variation Monkey Off My Back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted August 6, 2006 Share Posted August 6, 2006 rapping into the mouth does not look easy or fun. plus you'd miss out on the best free hanging rappel ever. I second that. it is the best free hanging rap EVER Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
111 Posted August 8, 2006 Share Posted August 8, 2006 I second that. it is the best free hanging rap EVER especially in the dark on a moonless night. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shapp Posted August 8, 2006 Share Posted August 8, 2006 you need double 60 meters to reach the ground from the nose boulder in one rap, if double 50 meters you have to make one more short rap at the bottom to reach the ground. I have climbed the west face variation many many times. Climbing with double 60 meter half ropes is great as there can be a lot of drag on the first two pitches of the west face variation take the left hand start on the first pitch through the bulge and then take the left hand variation on the second pitch listed in the Watts guide. Standard rack to a #4 friend will treat you right with two aiders (not two sets of two) and some jugs for the second. Only clipping every third bolt or so on the bolt ladder really helps out the second cleaning on jugs. Shap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letsroll Posted August 11, 2006 Share Posted August 11, 2006 Ok question about aiders. I am looking at getting the Metolius pocket aiders. I am heading to smith next weekend. If I can't get them I am thinking about getting another pair and if I am getting a second pair I might as well get a pair for big wallin. That way I have a light weight pair for alpine and a heavier pair for everythingn else. What would be a good pair? How many steps? These are what I am looking at for the big wall. http://www.yatesgear.com/climbing/etriers/index.htm Also you just need one fifi hook? What about a BD Cliffhanger or grapling hook? Never done aid climbing but will be heading that way soon. So trying to make my perchases count. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan_forester Posted August 11, 2006 Share Posted August 11, 2006 I have the yates aiders you're looking at, and I think they're pretty good. You just need one fifi hook, girth hitched to your harness (I have mine on my belay loop)...to be hooked into bolts, biners, your daisy, etc. No need for other hooks if you're doing the pioneer route, 'cause the aid pitch is a bolt ladder. If you want to do some aiding sometime let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letsroll Posted August 11, 2006 Share Posted August 11, 2006 Yo Dano. Can you recomend a book to get me some info before I head out on Aid (so I don't look like a complete idiot). I would love to and will take you up on that offer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan_forester Posted August 11, 2006 Share Posted August 11, 2006 I think freedom of the hills gives a decent overview on the basics of aiding. Once you get your basic sequence down you won't look too much like an idiot...but you might want to practice a little bit before you're up on the bolt ladder with 3 parties sitting below you on bohn street tapping their feet and offering you advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letsroll Posted August 11, 2006 Share Posted August 11, 2006 lol I rather not have any practice before hitting monkeyFace. It would be too comical so see people waiting. Will read up some then. THanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted August 11, 2006 Share Posted August 11, 2006 Ya know you can make functional aiders pretty easily and save $$$. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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