North Ridge of Stu

[WhiteLightning]

Just wondering if I can get on the North Ridge (or Complete North Ridge...either one) with out poons. Any thoughts?????

 

THX

[G-spotter]

Can you afford the chopper fees?

[chucK]

The complete doesn't require poons

[ryland_moore]

I'd say, it depends Chuck. I would probably want poons if I descended Sherpa gl. instead of heading down Cascadian. Don't need poons for the approach on complete N. Ridge though. I've also seen people without poons on the regular approach, but they usually had an ice axe or at least a whippet. I have also seen people with no poons and no axe using talus rock in case they fell, but I wouldn't rec. that. Heard stories of people slipping and going for long rides....

[Gary_Yngve]

Also depends on time of day. Early morning, poons were required (perhaps unless you had boots that could really kick in hard) for access to the upper NR. Late in the day they may not be. But the last bit across the glacier is decently steep and exposed and I definitely felt more comfortable with an axe.

[DirtyHarry]

You can also go down the West Ridge and hike around but it all seems a lot more difficult than just bringing some lightweight aluminums and going down the Sherpa.

[smithisheaven]

Go without the cramps and do the whole route. Much better in my opinion. Then you can say you actually climbed Mt Stuart instead of walking around half of it. The lower half has alot of nice pitches and including it makes for a great 2 day alpine climb.

[DirtyHarry]

Go without the cramps and do the whole route.

 

How get down then chump?

[russ]

cascadian... go in/out via Teanaway

[Gary_Yngve]

Can you bypass all snow coming down from Goat Pass to the base of the CNR? I think you could minimize your snow on the Stuart Glacier to just a short section, but below that are cliffs interspersed with gullies, and I'd think those would contain snow? Or is there a way to the base of CNR from Stuart Pass?

[skykilo]

I concur with the crampon-and-ax ditching, Teanaway approaching, Complete NR climbing, Cascadian descending MO. It's also possible to ditch the frozen H2O gear and descend via West Ridge to NW Buttress to Goat Pass to Stuart Lake, for the Complete NR from the Mountaineer Creek side.

[Tony_Bentley]

I concur with welkin1000 but it may be best to get some beta as it isn't straighforward. An option is to scope out the buttress on your way around to the base and decide the best plan of attack. There are a half a dozen rappel anchors if you head down the right way and this eliminates any need for crampons or ice axe.

[Jerm]

Can you bypass all snow coming down from Goat Pass to the base of the CNR? I think you could minimize your snow on the Stuart Glacier to just a short section, but below that are cliffs interspersed with gullies, and I'd think those would contain snow? Or is there a way to the base of CNR from Stuart Pass?

 

As of now, you dont need cramps or ice axe to go that way. You might have a short section or two to cross, but nothing requiring an axe or crampons. Only bring that stuff if you intend to descend the Sherpa or cross teh Stuart Glacier to the upper NR (most only bring an axe for that, but you could get away with a stick or trekking poles if it is warm).

[WhiteLightning]

I made the comment on the spray thread that I thought you CCer's were just a bunch of spraying idiots....But I'm starting to come around on that issue. Many thanks to all for the info on this issue AND for all of the beta over the years.....I might becoming one of you!!!!

 

A special thanks goes out to 'time2go' for finding my harness at WA pass and sending it to me.

[DirtyHarry]

I concur with the crampon-and-ax ditching, Teanaway approaching, Complete NR climbing, Cascadian descending MO. It's also possible to ditch the frozen H2O gear and descend via West Ridge to NW Buttress to Goat Pass to Stuart Lake, for the Complete NR from the Mountaineer Creek side.

 

Seems like a lot more walking then necessary to get on the route. Besides descending the Cascadian sucks as does hiking UP to Long's pass after at the end of a full day. Easier to just carry a few more ounces and take some l/w poons.

 

Descent off West Ridge makes some sense, but its not very direct back to the north side once you get down.

[scottgg]

When approaching from Ingalls-Goats Pass, can you access the Complete North Ridge without going on the Stuart Glacier (ie skirting beneath it)?

[skykilo]

Yes, no problem to skirt the Stuart Glacier. Maybe cross one really flat, stagnant section. Shouldn't be a hindrance.

[Jerm]

Descent off West Ridge makes some sense, but its not very direct back to the north side once you get down.

 

The NW Butt is pretty direct, just go straight down the gully below it. Aside from some schwackage around the bog, there is a great trail all the way out to and around Stuart Lake.

Edited August 2, 2006 by Jerm

[DirtyHarry]

Direct, OK, but still long. Have to cross that big talus field and down Goat Pass and over to Stuar Lake or north side moraine. Its straight and direct to descend the Sherpa, IMO.

[Alpinfox]

Its straight and direct to descend the Sherpa, IMO.

 

How late in the year have you (or others) descended the Sherpa. I've only gone down it in May. Easy as you please then, but I understand it gets kinda sketchy in late season?

 

I'd prefer to do the whole deal via the north side, but would probably do the CC descent if the Sherpa was too bony.

[DirtyHarry]

I've heard it gets bad in late late season like late August or September. I've descended it in mid July before in an average snow year and it had a long way to go before it got too sketchy.

[chucK]

I concur with the crampon-and-ax ditching, Teanaway approaching, Complete NR climbing, Cascadian descending MO. It's also possible to ditch the frozen H2O gear and descend via West Ridge to NW Buttress to Goat Pass to Stuart Lake, for the Complete NR from the Mountaineer Creek side.

 

Seems like a lot more walking then necessary to get on the route. Besides descending the Cascadian sucks as does hiking UP to Long's pass after at the end of a full day. Easier to just carry a few more ounces and take some l/w poons.

 

I punched the various routes into the TOPO! software program and was surprised at the results.

 

Teanaway (Ingalls Pass -> Goat Pass -> CC couloir -> Long's Pass):

mileage (including ups and downs): 12.5 miles

total altitude gain: 8775'

 

Mountaineer Creek routes:

Sherpa:

mileage: 13.0 miles

total altitude gain: 6450'

 

NW Buttress:

mileage: 13.2 miles

total altitude gain: 6450'

 

Numbers are slightly rounded and are approximate since I didn't work very hard at tracing a totally accurate route.

 

I was amazed that the Teanaway Route actually has less mileage than the Mountaineer Creek possibilities.

 

Big difference in total amount of uphill slogging you have to do due to all the ups and downs of the Teanaway route.

 

Much less technical/semi technical ground to negotiate on Teanaway route.

 

So it's a tradeoff between more technical ground versus more altitude gain/loss. The total mileage's are pretty comparable.

 

One other note is the driving distances. From Seattle it takes about the same amount of time to get to Teanaway TH as to Leavenworth, so figure the driving time from Leavenworth to Mountaineer Creek TH to be another "cost" of the Mountaineer Creek versions (if you're coming from or through Seattle, that is).

 

 

As far as in-person, experience I have only done the Teanaway version (many times for West Ridge, once for complete N Ridge). I think the complaints about the CC couloir descent and the Long's Pass grind are totally overblown. You can't get a lower impact descent than the sandy plungestepping of the CC couloir (even nicer with snowcover early season), and the Long's Pass uphill is nothing compared to what you've already done. It's psychologically daunting, but if you just put your head down and go, it's over before you know it.

 

I love this thread...each and every time it comes up

[DirtyHarry]

I love this thread...each and every time it comes up

 

It is the quintissential cc.com version of tastes great less filling.

[Alpinfox]

Hey, do you guys prefer the Slow Creek or Assmaster Pass approach to Prusik?

 

[olyclimber]

great taste