[TR] Inspiration Peak- East Ridge 7/2/2006

[fgw]

Climb: Inspiration Peak-East Ridge

 

Date of Climb: 7/2/2006

 

Trip Report:

My wife and I climbed Inspiration Peak via E. Ridge over the 4th Weekend. This was our 2nd alpine outing since last year and so we were suffering on the approach.

 

Started the hike in on Saturday following a rich breakfast in Marblemount. The initial

~4 miles that shadow Goodell Cr. make for a pleasant warm-up - nice trail and nice grade. After that, the business started. No water available bet. last stream crossing on the Godell Tr. and the ~5000' bench (big waterfall there – my elevations might be off). We were both suffering. Chatting with two other guys from Seattle who were headed up for W. McMillan made for a nice diversion. By the time we reached the Nelson and Potterfield endorsed camp area, it was close to 8pm. We were slow. As we were racking up for the next day, 4 guys passed by and we bs-ed a bit. They were headed for the W. Ridge of Inspiration.

 

Woke up at 5am on Sunday and were hiking & losing elevation by 5:30am. Not exactly an alpine start but we figured we’ll catch up once on the ridge (not quite). We were about 15 minutes behind the 4 guys headed for W. Ridge. Down and then back up we went. Glacier crossing was fairly trivial – nicely covered up and no huge moat near the start of East Ridge. We started up the rock at (probably) about 10 am. 3 or 4 pitches to reach the notch (bet. Inspiration and the closest tower) is probably right on. We simuled the first 400 feet or so and then pitched out for the next two rope lengths. Probably was off-route (though I saw a fixed nut – only piece of fixed gear on the route) on this final pitch as the terrain got kinda hard (5.8+ ?) and really loose. At one point I nearly pitched off as I grabbed a hold and a 2X3 foot block came out of the rock face. Gently set it in a crack away from the rope.

 

Once on the ridge, the nature of the rock changed: abundant cracks and mostly solid stuff. 5.8 lieback was next which was harder than I thought it should be – I’m blaming it on my pack. Our choice of backpacks was one stupid mistake (of many) we did on this climb. Planning on a 4-day itinerary, we both brought pretty large packs with large internal frames. In short, with helmets on we really could not turn our heads to look up. Stupid. The 5.8 pitch brought us to the base of the STELLAR looking hand crack - #2 to #3 Camalots mostly (some thinner stuff higher). I led off but once near the top could not decide where to go – left or right? Ended up tension traversing (weak and tired) to the right crack and up to the notch. Couple short and easy pitches brought us to the west side of the false summit. Next came the best part of the day: the low 5th traverse from false to true summit which itself is an incredible sight with its overhanging south face. About 8 to 10 pitches in all if you don’t do any simulclimbing.

 

It was about 4 pm when we started down the west ridge – yeah, slow. The initial 3 or 4 raps went smoothly. Nice established rap stations. At this point, a snow gully appeared on the north side of the west ridge. The fixed anchors seem to run out (people drop down the south face at this point?). We wasted time scrambling around looking for the best way down. Finally spotted an old nest of slings. Two more raps and I could see that the next rap (plentiful slings visible from above) would bring us to the glacier. Happily rapped to it (~58 meters) only to find that the slings were total shit – I tore two of them with my hands. The downside of the situation was that the slings were slung around a 15-foot block. Out went the final cordallette but the set up looked flimsy and after searching around for alternatives, I made an expensive choice to back up the final rap station (merry Xmas to the next party through there). We switched to boots and crampons and rapped 60 meters onto a snow tongue protruding out of Terror Glacier into a gully. I found a decent landing zone on a tiny rock stance inside the moat. My wife came down and ducked as much as possible inside the moat. The ropes dropped smoothly until one end caught some blocks dislodging them. The last thing I saw was a 2X2 chunk of rock flying towards me 20 feet above as I was trying to squeeze deeper into the moat. The block bounced off the rock face above my head and harmlessly hit the snow. It was 7pm when we started down the glacier.

 

Some route finding issues low on the snowfield were finally resolved and we made it back to camp in darkness (11pm??). Hiked out the next morning.

 

Three days of perfect weather and probably the most memorable climb to date.

 

Gear Notes:

Crux crack takes #2 and #3 Camalots - doubles in these are nice. Standard rack otherwise. May need to build/supplement rap anchors.

[DirtyHarry]

Nice. What a great setting for a fun climb. Glad you went down the west ridge instead of the south face like some parties have done.

[Alpinfox]

YEAH!

[layton]

Nice. What a great setting for a fun climb. Glad you went down the west ridge instead of the south face like some parties have done.

 

if you're not into being EXTREME

[olyclimber]

awesome!!!!!

[MCash]

Nice!!

 

The Nelson & Potterfield gear suggestion of small rack to 2" doesn't sound like it would work too well.

[jlag]

Nice work Radek. Sounds spicey.

[goatboy]

Nice!

 

The Nelson & Potterfield gear suggestion of small rack to 2" doesn't sound like it would work too well.

 

Agreed! We climbed it last year with a small rock to 2" and it did not, in fact, work well. I suggest multiple #2 camalots and at least one #3, plus smaller stuff...