scot'teryx Posted October 23, 2002 Posted October 23, 2002 10/14/02 Sergio and I hit this in late morning and started the 1st pitch simul climbing but what sucked was i had no screws with me, and he only had 2, and our pickets were worthless in the bulletproof ice. This meant we would have to runout each pitch w/o placing pro, so it would be much more interesting, especially with the condition of the ice. We belayed 2 pitches, and the ice was so hard and dinnerplating that shards were slicing my arms and legs that Sergio sent down to me. After that we traversed and led affset from the belay and learned our lesson. I led out the 2nd pitch, right after following him up I got burnt real quick and we broke this pitch into two, so he followed me and then lead out the last 1/2 pitch to the top. The last 30 feet or so were pretty cool as it was about 60 degrees and much easier to climb than the average 50 degrees down below. At the top we were greeted with a nice view of some mountain covered in snow and stuff I think it's Tiger mountain? Barely made it to the trail before sundown Good climb, just another training session to get ready for Chair this winter. [ 10-23-2002, 08:19 AM: Message edited by: scot'teryx ] Quote
chilly Posted October 23, 2002 Posted October 23, 2002 Nice photo's......That is always a fun one to play on, just don't attempt the downclimb down the north side slag heap, it's loooooooooose................and crapppppppppppppppppppppppyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy...... Quote
philfort Posted October 24, 2002 Posted October 24, 2002 It looks like it might be barely visible above the large rock blob in the first picture? It was there in late August too, so I guess it stays put :-) Quote
thelawgoddess Posted October 24, 2002 Posted October 24, 2002 quote: Originally posted by philfort: It looks like it might be barely visible above the large rock blob in the first picture? It was there in late August too, so I guess it stays put i hope so! (at least through the weekend anyway ...) Quote
vegetablebelay Posted October 24, 2002 Posted October 24, 2002 quote: Originally posted by philfort: It looks like it might be barely visible above the large rock blob in the first picture? It was there in late August too, so I guess it stays put :-) I think the one we saw would be straight up or just out of the pic to the left in pic 4. Quote
scot'teryx Posted October 24, 2002 Author Posted October 24, 2002 did not notice a large rock in the middle of the face at all. There was a large rock half way up the route on the right side where we had a good belay station. You can see sergio belaying from it in pic 3 as I took a picture from up above. Quote
vegetablebelay Posted October 24, 2002 Posted October 24, 2002 Well if it fell, I'll bet it's still going! Quote
Gary_Yngve Posted October 24, 2002 Posted October 24, 2002 quote: Originally posted by vegetablebelay: A couple of weeks ago there was a big scary rock sitting in the middle of the face right near the top. It had come from somewhere above the face. I don't see it in the pics, did you see it there? This is from Oct 6. Quote
philfort Posted October 25, 2002 Posted October 25, 2002 Yes, from Gary's photo, it's not clear where you go. There's that boulder though. Such high objective danger! Quote
mvs Posted October 25, 2002 Posted October 25, 2002 I was gonna do that route last week. Jezus-pleazus, I'm glad I changed my mind!!! Keep me posted on when that thing comes down... Quote
Gary_Yngve Posted October 25, 2002 Posted October 25, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: can we get more beta on this route It's about 400 feet of vertical from the base. We simuled up to a belay on the ledge at the right. Then a full ropelength up to a belay, and another half ropelength to the top. Quote
SEF Posted October 25, 2002 Posted October 25, 2002 Observation Rock, it would seem, is ice climbing's answer to the Tooth. Quote
mattp Posted October 25, 2002 Posted October 25, 2002 quote: Originally posted by SEF: Observation Rock, it would seem, is ice climbing's answer to the Tooth. Good one. That would make the Nisqually Glacier ice climbing's answer to Mountaineers' dome. Quote
Gary_Yngve Posted October 25, 2002 Posted October 25, 2002 quote: Originally posted by SEF: Observation Rock, it would seem, is ice climbing's answer to the Tooth. Yeah, except when we went that Sunday, we were the only ones on the NF all day. Quote
vegetablebelay Posted October 25, 2002 Posted October 25, 2002 A couple of weeks ago there was a big scary rock sitting in the middle of the face right near the top. It had come from somewhere above the face. I don't see it in the pics, did you see it there? Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 25, 2002 Posted October 25, 2002 Can someone make a topo and rap clean the rock out of the route. It's scary Quote
Attitude Posted October 25, 2002 Posted October 25, 2002 Just bolt the damn thing and get it over with. Quote
Jim Posted October 25, 2002 Posted October 25, 2002 Sorry, I must have been sleeping for a while or something - where is Observation Rock, other than near Ranier (or is it Tiger?)? Looks like a good day trip this time of year. Quote
Gary_Yngve Posted October 25, 2002 Posted October 25, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Can someone make a topo and rap clean the rock out of the route. It's scary While they're at it, can they scrub the ice with a toothbrush to remove the dirt? Quote
Figger_Eight Posted October 25, 2002 Posted October 25, 2002 You can toprope it right? Then maybe I can try climbing it without my leashes. Quote
philfort Posted October 25, 2002 Posted October 25, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: The crux is pretty intense You mean driving the Mowich Lake road? Quote
philfort Posted October 25, 2002 Posted October 25, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: The crux is pretty intense You mean driving the Mowich Lake road? Quote
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