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olyclimber

[TR] Index- Davis-Holland/1st pitch of Lovin Arms

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Climb: Index-Davis-Holland/1st pitch of Lovin Arms

 

Date of Climb: 6/17/2006

 

Trip Report:

Hansel ropegunned me up Davis-Holland and the 1st pitch of Lovin Arms today. I also had a pitch of copenhagen for the first time since junior high, and the rock achieved much more clarity. Also time sped up, and i heard chanting voices.

 

Notes:

-The first pitch is indeed wet! Slimey in fact. It is slightly harder in these conditions.

-There were no mosquitos, but beware of ants at the top of the first pitch!

-Beware, the girl working the coffee shop in Goldbar is not as cute as I remember.

-520 is closed today. Don't go there.

-Sparks is a wonderful after climbing beverage.

-There is a lizard living on the ledge at the top of pitch 3 of Davis-Holland.

-Though it rained on the drive out, it didn't rain while we were climbing. We stopped at 1st pitch of Lovin Arms because it looked like it was gonna, but it didn't.

-pictures on a disposable camera, so wait for developement.

-I heart Index

-Nobody dropped coils on us today.

-I had a Layton pinchy experience starting on the third pitch. Even though I was following, it was intense. Thanks to Jeff for allowing me to rap first on the last rappel.

-Jeff told me a story about how he once beat up this dude(it was self defense!):

second_sight_ruxpin.jpg

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It was all of that. Over all, the whole climb is awesome (at least the pitches we did are).

Mr. Natural's pic of the 2nd pitch:

581654-scan0049.jpg

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I've said it before, but I'll say it again: I think it is the best 5.10 climb in Washington. Every pitch is good, and all are different.

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I've said it before, but I'll say it again: I think it is the best 5.10 climb in Washington. Every pitch is good, and all are different.

 

My favorite pitch so far in WA is 2nd pitch of Thin Fingers. HCL.gif I haven't lead it yet, but it is velly nice.

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Yes, that Thin Fingers pitch is great. Index has lots of great stuff. But for 6 great pitches in a row, Davis Holland/Lovin Arms is hard to beat. Both of the S. Face Prussik routes are great, too, and the setting is better, but for Just Plain Classic Rock Climbing do the Davis Holland Lovin Arms!

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Pharmako Poeia:

nicotine stimulates the release of epinephrine (adrenaline) and dopamine, and in lesser amounts norepinephrine, and serotoinin. Norephine is a neurohormone chemically related to mescaline. The significance of these neurotransmitters to the alleged hallucinatory effects of tabacco is still inconclusive.

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dry, but a bit mossy on the left where you stem. the interior of the chimney is wet, but you don't use that to stem.

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that would be the lead guitar for soundgarden, named in 2003 by the Rolling Stone as one of the "100 greatest guitarist of all time"

teddy.jpgwink.gif

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i did get pictures of you guys (or at least I took 5-10 pictures of the aid climbers on Green Drag-on and Town Crier. PM me your email address and I'll send you the pictures later today.

 

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Nice job guys! I was floating the river (we did the fun stretch 3 times yesterday) and everytime we rafted by I was jealous I wasn't out climbing. We could just make out a white shirt from the river and someone in red. We watched you guys at the hanging belay in the photo above. It's nice to see up close what I was jealous of from afar. smile.gif

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Did this on Saturday with a couple of buddies. Mec, ropegunned Rad and I up the 2nd and 3rd pitches and we rapped. It is definately some of the best climbing I have done in the state. thumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gif

 

Not that I've climbed much out of this state. thumbs_down.gif

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I was floating the river (we did the fun stretch 3 times yesterday) and everytime we rafted by I was jealous I wasn't out climbing. We could just make out a white shirt from the river and someone in red.

 

Ha, mighta been me, I was wearing a red shirt. With a couple hundred feet of air under our butts we were looking down at the rafts, getting jealous about how relaxing a nice float would be. Grass is always greener!

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