G. Teton - mixed - July

[OlegV]

Planning my first climbing trip to Teton range in early July. Interested in moderately hard mixed routes, like Black Ice and Enclosure Couloir. Anybody climbed these or similar routes in July? I heard it gets much icier later in season. Is July too early for this?

Thanks!

[chrisfun3]

Black Ice Couloir is now the Black Dirt Couloir. Talk to the ranger, but it started shrinking years ago and finally didn't form up in the past few years. NE Ice Couloir of the Middle Teton is sweet and still forms. Middle Teton Glacier is probably a bit less steep and less committing. A personal favorite that you will likely not find people on are the SW Chutes of Teewinot. A snow route, not ice. Spoon couloir on Disappointment is a fun warmup.

[ryland_moore]

Good luck on finding Black Ice Couloir in shape. it has been melting out for the last several years. Call Teton mountain Guides or Exum and see if anyone has done it. You would still have to summit via another route, since Black Ice only gets you to the Upper saddle.

 

There is a great variation of the owen_Spalding route just before the belly crawl that is a nice 5.9 crack in a psuedo chimney. It is pretty short, but way nicer than the belly crawl option.

 

If you aren't finding any ice, you can always go into the ice caves in Idaho!!!

[OlegV]

Thanks! I'll probably need to get a book first and read up on the routes you recomended before asking stupid questions. Biving in snow caves in Idaho! What a cool idea Does it mean the ice got thinner all other the Tetons Range, or just the south-facing slopes? Global warming sucks.

[OlegV]

Curiously, they still have Black Ice Couloir in their guiding program:

http://www.exumguides.com/elite/alpineice.shtml

[Chad_A]

FWIW, last year, the Black Ice did come into shape in near classic form last year (a reliable source told me), and with this year's good snowpack, the word is that it has a great chance of coming in again, this year.

 

I have a climbing partner in Wyoming; he said that he plans on keeping his eye on things. Albrects Alley is one on his "to do" list, and he plans on getting it done this year.

[J_Fisher]

Planning my first climbing trip to Teton range in early July. Interested in moderately hard mixed routes, like Black Ice and Enclosure Couloir. Anybody climbed these or similar routes in July? I heard it gets much icier later in season. Is July too early for this?

Thanks!

 

Totally depends on the winter snowpack and weather this spring/summer. The climbing rangers there know their shit and are your best source. Jenny Lake Ranger Station: 307-739-3343

[OlegV]

Hmm, just called the Jenny Lake Ranger Station and EXUM. Both are sceptical about any ice presence in the Black Ice Couloir in July. They had hot June. Maybe on the Enclosure couloir and the Northwest couloir of Middle Teton.

 

I am thinking the North Face of Grand Teton should be in better shape. Any experiences up there in summer?

[John Frieh]

I gotta say... for another 4 hours of driving you could be in the CAN rockies...

 

[NYC007]

john what route?

[OlegV]

Sweet!

[DirtyHarry]

john what route?

 

You should ask Polish Bob.

[J_Fisher]

I gotta say... for another 4 hours of driving you could be in the CAN rockies...

 

From Seattle, Canadian Rockies are if anything closer than Jackson

[John Frieh]

Oleg and I are in PDX

[J_Fisher]

Oleg and I are in PDX

 

My condolences

[wfinley]

I gotta say... for another 4 hours of driving you could be in the CAN rockies...

 

I have to agree! The following pics were all taken in early July. I love the Tetons... but for the rock not the snow.

 

Edith Cavell

 

Andromeda

 

Columbia

 

PS... I believe John's photos are from Astroid Alley on Andromdea.

[OlegV]

I guess, there is no black ice anywhere in lower 48 in July

[Dechristo]

There's a long summmer ice route in the Upper Titcomb Basin of the Winds, but it's a LONG hike in to it.

[Chad_A]

Another thought is the Sierra Nevadas. My pal just lent me the little guidebook for the area that just came out this year; looks to be some fun stuff down there on Mt. Mendel.