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Need2Climb

Rack for Forbidden W. Ridge

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Oh, you are wrong Alpinfox. I just received con irmartion from a little birdy that there is someone who is giving specific gear info. on this thread who has never set foot on this route. That is bs by the way and I will back up Snaffle on his earlier comment. If yo've never climbed a rou.te before, then you are out of your element, Donny. So STFU....You have no basis....

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OK.

 

... but I doubt this person's recommendation endangered anyone.

 

"WRF?? OH YEAH, JUST TAKE FOUR #5 CAMALOTS AND SOME QUICKDRAWS!"

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BTW, I actually down-solo campussed the west ridge adding a down-sit start from the summit. In winter.

 

this is all bullshit unless you straightline glissaded it switch to the road.

 

and he said he climbed the west ridge, so why would his take on windshirts be of any value without at least some gear shop experience??? thumbs_down.gif

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It's a pretty petty beef, considering gear needs will vary widely based on the climber's experience and comfort level. yellowsleep.gif

 

Once I had someone ask me what snow protection to take for some climb. "Skis?" cantfocus.gif

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it should be open in a few weeks according to the rangers since there is snow just before the cascade pass TH and there isn't "enough parking."

 

If any rangers are reading this: it is extremely LAME that the gate is locked. The road is in perfect shape beyond the gate. thumbs_down.gif

 

Agreed. Unless the result is going to be harm to the road (not the case at this point) there is no reason you should have us locked out. Let US deal with the parking. It's our fucking road, we paid for it, now unlock the damn gate. rolleyes.gif

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BTW, back the original subject of this thread, click HERE for a good example of a lightweight rack for easy alpine rockclimbs.

usr-2005.jpg

Take more gear if 5.6 is going to be challenging for you (a few extra nuts and hexes are really light), less if you feel comfortable running it out. Take lots of slings (some double length) and a couple cordelettes. Lots of horns and boulders and such that you can tie off. A lighterweight 50m rope should be plenty good enough for this route.

 

Remember to test the rock that you place your gear in. That great looking parallel-sided crack that you just placed your cam in could just expand or fall apart if weighted. Alpine rock isn't usually as solid as craggin' rock.

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Good info Pax. thumbs_up.gif

 

But you don't really need a rack, just climb it in July or August and clip all the gapers wearing full shank mtneering boots that you pass on the route.

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OK .. I'll bite, Sky.

 

First of all, I've met you before. You seem like an alright guy. I like your trip reports and you do some hard core crazy type shit. Awesome.

 

But let's be real about it. You say its a pretty petty beef. I agree. It is. But nevertheless, my point is a valid one. You shouldn't be on this board offering advice to people if you haven't stepped foot on the route. This website maybe the only place on earth where people would disagree with that statement.

 

If I were asking advice on a route, I would expect the decency of an honest answer. If someone is blowing smoke up my ass and leading me to believe they know what they're talking about when they don't, then I'd be glad that someone alerted me to the fact outwardly. Is someone going to die because they were suggested the wrong rack for the W. Ridge of Forbidden? Probably not. Am I implying that? Not in the slightest.

 

We all know that asking for 'beta' on this website is akin to asking for legal advice at the office water cooler. You're going to get some good opinions, and some bad ones. But .. if you are intentionally bullshitting an entire community and someone knows about it, then expect to be called on it. I sure as hell would. But that's just me I guess... I don't post on here to lie to people and get brownie points with my compadres for climbing a bunch of routes that I actually haven't. Take it for what it's worth. If you think the beef is petty .. fine, then don't listen to what I'm saying. You have your opinion and I have mine.

 

Is cascadeclimbers.com "the pacific northwest climbers resource" or a bunch of yahoo armchair climbers who like to type funny little messages more than they like to get out and climb? If the latter, keep on keeping on. If this site wants an ounce of respect from newcomers, then do the right thing and give people honest advice when they ask for it.

 

If all this makes me a hater, then so be it.

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Just go solo then you don't need a rack.

thumbs_up.gif

 

Exactly, and if you downsolo it you don't need a rope. Light = Fast = Speed = Safety.

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But nevertheless, my point is a valid one. You shouldn't be on this board offering advice to people if you haven't stepped foot on the route.

 

OK dude, who was it that gave the beta and hasn't been on the route? Colonel Mustard, Professor Plum, who?

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Sweet blubbering Jeebus, what's wrong with you people? It's a simple beta request, offer something useful or STFU.

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