SEWS couloir

[scheissami]

I was thinking about trying my hand at the SEWS couloir this week (maybe tomorrow). Anybody been up by there recently? What are conditions like? I've not done this climb before and am quite the noob--any particular concerns? I've done straightforward stuff like the south routes on Adams and Hood, and I understand this to be relatively simple as well (as described in Nelson's).

 

Also, any other recs for routes of this caliber/commitment that might be in right now?

 

Thanks for your help...

Cheers.

 

P.S.--If any are interested in joining me, well, the more the merrier....

[luwayo]

2/3rds up you might find a section of loose shale. but this was a big snow year, so coverage will proly be good.

[goatboy]

SEWS is in North Cacades, not Southern Cascades....

 

This time of year the route should be in good shape after a freeze the night before.

 

Here's a few pictures from the past (not showing current conditions)

 

Watch for the big cornice which overhangs the East Face of SEWS:

 

 

Here's a shot taken about 3/4 of the way up the couloir:

 

 

I like to descend the S Arete route (using two short rappels near the bottom) as a "round trip" way to do the route (versus descending the couloir).

 

Enjoy!

[scheissami]

Thanks! Yeah, North Cascades (oops). Also, someone kindly pointed out that it probably hasn't seen too much traffic yet since the pass just opened yesterday (oops #2). Anyway, past info is certainly still helpful for me.

 

Toodles.

[JoshK]

It is a very straightforward coulior - you should have no problem if you've done Hood. Just evaluate the snow conditions and climb early since this week is the first really major warm up so far this year. As somebody else said, it should be very well filled in this year and be solid snow.

[ncascademtns]

I can't remember what year I did it (1998?) but we went up there the day that the road openned and for me, I think it was a bit to soon. To much snow in the couloir made it just a walk up (looked the same as picture posted above). I guess it just depends on what you want to get out of it.

[Lowell_Skoog]

It is a very straightforward coulior - you should have no problem if you've done Hood.

 

I wonder if everybody is talking about the same gully. The gully on the SW side of the peak is generally straightforward. The gully on the NE side of the peak is less so. Which one are you referring to?

[ncascademtns]

Lowell,

I believe we are talking about the SW Couloir. I was confussed for a second when the picture of the north side was posted above but realized it was just taken from the top.

[scheissami]

My bad... yeah, I meant the SW couloir.

[rockgirl77]

Did you end up doing the couloir recently? if so, how were the conditions?

[goatboy]

Just climbed this route on Friday 5/5/06.

 

Snow conditions were pretty much as depicted in the photo above -- firm and full coverage. The couloir seems to be no more than 40-45 degrees steep at most. Excellent cramponning and fixed anchors in the couloir for descent, should you choose to do it that way...

 

Descending the South Arete would be a pretty snowy endeavor right now! So we descended the SW couloir.

 

Also, the cornice depicted in the old photo above which overhangs the East face is as big as I've ever seen it! Plus, the cornice on Blue Lake Peak across the way is also bigger than I've ever seen it. Will post some photos later.

 

I recommend approaching via the hairpin ("Spire Gully") as you can glissade all the way back to your vehicle...

 

Fun route, very straightforward conditions right now.

[parapluie]

What are the fixed anchors in the couloir?

[mikebell]

Descending the South Arete would be a pretty snowy endeavor right now! So we descended the SW couloir.

 

I climbed S. Arete Saturday and left boot tracks in the snow at the top for my partner who wore rock shoes. Then you can stay on rock almost of the rest of the way down.

[scheissami]

What about climbing the S. Arete--could you do it in rock shoes? It sounds like you're saying the snow is mostly at the top right now.

 

I'm supposed to head up there this Friday. We were going to climb the SW couloir and rap the S. arete to see if it was dry; if so, climb that, too.

 

Pics would be awesome. I'm stoked--sounds like you had a rad time.

 

Cheers.

[goatboy]

Fixed anchors are slings around trees....There are three, taking you to the bottom of the steeper (upper) couloir via three 60-M rappels.

 

One could easily downclimb the couloir, too, should one want to....

[NYC007]

anyone see if the SE buttress was dry ??

[larrythellama]

Fixed anchors are slings around trees....There are three, taking you to the bottom of the steeper (upper) couloir via three 60-M rappels.

 

ahh good.... more trash in the mountains.

[mikebell]

What about climbing the S. Arete--could you do it in rock shoes? It sounds like you're saying the snow is mostly at the top right now.

 

OK, here's beta. Snow starts after the gullies. My partner did not want to go on the snow in rock shoes so he waited for me while I summitted. I switched from rock shoes to boots to kick a few steps in the snow to get to the hand traverse. Then I kicked more steps to traverse across the top of the colour. Belayed with an ice axe I would use rock shoes but since I was soloing I wanted boots to kick steps. Expect even less snow after another week of melting. Go get it.

[mattp]

I don't know what kind of boots you guys have or what kind of climbers you are, but I would think you could easily climb the S. Arete in boots that were suitable for kicking a few steps in the snow at the top. The climb has two or three moves that might be 5.7 down low, then about ten feet of chimney climbing which might be 5.6, and the rest is 4th class. Take an ice axe and wear your knickers and call it alpine climbing.

[DirtyHarry]

With the snow the moves down low are probably non existent and I wouldn't say that chimney is as hard as 5.6.

[pms]

I wonder if Lowell has some pictures he could post from some of the other gullies on the east side of the Liberty Bell/EWS peaks? Seems like some good alternate gully climbs that I've always wondered about for fun spring climbs with short approach. Well short except for the drive.

[goatboy]

Here are a few images from SEWS showing current conditions:

 

SEWS from Spire Gully (South Arete is left skyline)

 

Blue Lake Peak with sizeable cornice -- and a skier

 

TeeWa with Blue Lake Peak behind her:

 

Climbing SEWS SW Couloir -- foreshortened angle makes it look steep! But it isn't...

 

SEWS Cornice 2006 version:

[rockgirl77]

I read a TR somewhere that said a group had used a few pieces of pro to get on the summit. Did you end up bringing anything? If so, what'd you bring?

 

I'll be on the route this Sunday.

[scheissami]

Rad pics!!

 

I'm looking forward to heading up there Friday. The S. Arete looks pretty snow free, too.

[Recycled]

Excellent conditions today but the weather's deteriorating a bit. It has been cold overnight lately and there's a hard ice crust up there first thing in the AM. Great boot conditions! Only 4 cars (including mine) at the Blue Lake trailhead today. Where is everyone?