Knottygirl Posted March 21, 2006 Posted March 21, 2006 So I know Rocky Butte is a bit on the ghetto side, but when its nice outside and you only have a few hours its a great place to throw out your rope. So I was warming up on Blueberry Jam (easy 5.9 trad route) and once I got up to the anchors I saw that they had been hack sawed off. I glanced over at the routes next door and their anchors had been cut as well. I only saw about three sets of anchors cut (it must have been recent?) Quote
John Frieh Posted March 21, 2006 Posted March 21, 2006 Semi annual "chop all the TR anchors" tradition at Rocky. Not sure who does it... could be local home owners sick of the climbers (doubtful), the kids at the bible college (possible) or most likely the same individual(s) that chop all the TR bolts all the time. Â I wonder if they got the chains at the top of silver bullet? Â Personally I never plan on any bolts at Rocky... just buy a few 50' pieces of webbing or cut up some old ropes and sling trees. Quote
John Frieh Posted March 21, 2006 Posted March 21, 2006 Did they leave the portion of chain that went around the tree or is it all gone? Quote
Knottygirl Posted March 21, 2006 Author Posted March 21, 2006 Luckily I had a bunch of cordalette and some webbing my partner sent up to me. Silver bullet area looked fine. Hmm, I new to climbing at rocky, what a horrible tradition!!! Quote
Ireneo_Funes Posted March 21, 2006 Posted March 21, 2006 Isn't Blueberry Jam the 5.9 crack with the bouldery start? I don't think I've ever seen bolts on top of that one. You can build an anchor right below the top or just use the tree. Quote
John Frieh Posted March 21, 2006 Posted March 21, 2006 BillCoe or I or anybody else who climbs out there enough can explain it to you some time ((Bill would likely give a better explanation)... tradition likely isn't the best choice of words... more one person(s) perception of what is "safe" or "acceptable" at Rocky Butte. Â Not saying I agree with it... more I am aware of the argument used for chopping and cutting. Â Regardless Rocky is a cool place... looking forward to starting up PDX midweek climb night soon! Quote
Knottygirl Posted March 21, 2006 Author Posted March 21, 2006 yes, it is the climb with the bouldery start. I thought last year it had anchors....I definately saw where they were chopped. Quote
Winter Posted March 21, 2006 Posted March 21, 2006 The anchors out there have been repeatedly chopped. The climbs are easily TR'd. Why are we going round and round with this at the expense of the rock? Take some freaking webbing and be done with it. Quote
Ireneo_Funes Posted March 22, 2006 Posted March 22, 2006 There's a few routes at the butte where the bolts are pretty handy - but Winter's right, most of the routes just need some webbing for a decent anchor. Quote
billcoe Posted March 22, 2006 Posted March 22, 2006 The anchors out there have been repeatedly chopped. The climbs are easily TR'd. Why are we going round and round with this at the expense of the rock? Take some freaking webbing and be done with it. Â What he said: Old news. Blueberry in particular has a nice tree and 5 other independant placements should you want that many. Fuenos was making fun of me once cause I used most of them! Olah Ireneo! Furthermore, it was boltless for the first 25 years I climbed out there, and those anchors you see got put in and taken out last year sometime, unless they got put in and taken out for the first time this year. (somebody do a search on this site if you want to revist last years thread on it). Â I'm currently slacking on cleaning off that buttress (Jim calls it "Bill's Buttress") just West of Video, I have started to shovel and trundle but got sidetracked by the beautiful snow this year: however, brace yourself for the anchor/bolt question cause it would be nice to have them there at that location, and since I'm doing the work I get to chose and I'm leaning towards bolts. With some sweet beautiful chains. Â I'll confer with everybody a long time b4 so no need to start arguing and screaming about nothing just yet. Plenty of time later. Â Place will probably be drytooled 20-30 times before we get to that point. That's another discussion too. Quote
Alpinfox Posted March 22, 2006 Posted March 22, 2006 ..... looking forward to starting up PDX midweek climb night soon! Â And I'm sure all PDX climbers are waiting breathlessly for you to do this for them. Â HOW HAVE THEY SURVIVED WITHOUT YOU!?!?! Â We're counting on you NOLSEY! Quote
catbirdseat Posted March 22, 2006 Posted March 22, 2006 I love the way bright orange and red webbing looks on trees. It's so much more festive than drab old chains, especially those boring anchors that try to match the color of the rock. Quote
billcoe Posted March 22, 2006 Posted March 22, 2006 (edited) ..... looking forward to starting up PDX midweek climb night soon! Â And I'm sure all PDX climbers are waiting breathlessly for you to do this for them. How have they survived without your organization!?!?! Â Â Be nice, John is great guy to hang with and everybody down here likes him. Unlike a lot of folks around here, dude really gets out and climbs! Â CBS, nobody leaves the webbing, Johns would use it to wipe the dripping slimy spoage off after they finish up. Â Edited to add: Nice job getting out and getting some Knottygirl. Edited March 22, 2006 by billcoe Quote
Cobra_Commander Posted March 22, 2006 Posted March 22, 2006 Regardless Rocky is a cool place... Â Let's not get carried away now. Quote
Raindawg Posted March 22, 2006 Posted March 22, 2006 I love the way bright orange and red webbing looks on trees. It's so much more festive than drab old chains, especially those boring anchors that try to match the color of the rock. Â SO DO I!!!!! OOOOOOOO! FES T I V E ! Â Quote
Cobra_Commander Posted March 22, 2006 Posted March 22, 2006 I say with 100% honesty that guy would not be out of place at rocky butte. Quote
John Frieh Posted March 22, 2006 Posted March 22, 2006 ..... looking forward to starting up PDX midweek climb night soon! Â And I'm sure all PDX climbers are waiting breathlessly for you to do this for them. How have they survived without your organization!?!?! Â Â Be nice, John is great guy to hang with and everybody down here likes him. Unlike a lot of folks around here, dude really gets out and climbs! Â CBS, nobody leaves the webbing, Johns would use it to wipe the dripping slimy spoage off after they finish up. Â Edited to add: Nice job getting out and getting some Knottygirl. Â Â Look Bill! You caught one! They are very very hard to catch... the mysterious and sly "Pax stealth edit"!!! Notice how the two posts differ!!! Â ..... looking forward to starting up PDX midweek climb night soon! Â And I'm sure all PDX climbers are waiting breathlessly for you to do this for them. Â HOW HAVE THEY SURVIVED WITHOUT YOU!?!?! Â We're counting on you NOLSEY! Â Yo Pax! (then again maybe Paxil might be more appropriate ) Why all the hate brother? I've been staying out of all your threads ever since the Album of 2005 thread beration (I noticed you went back and edited it out)... why the hate? Don't tell me you dislike me for starting and maintaining a thread for local PDX climbers to come out and climb together... do you? If so make sure you go hate on weekendclimber and Off White... they have threads too! Â No body is saying PDX climbers were lost before I showed up... we are just trying to get some stoke going here for spring. Â Â Quote
mattp Posted March 22, 2006 Posted March 22, 2006 Getting climbers together and getting the stoke up is cool. Don't mind Pax -- he might even show up at your next "stoke night" if he's in Porttown. Its just the way we show our love here at cc.com. Quote
John Frieh Posted March 22, 2006 Posted March 22, 2006 Harsh posts + midnight bivy gropes = cc.luv  Make sure to preheat them Quote
ivan Posted March 22, 2006 Posted March 22, 2006 ..... looing forward to starting up PDX midweek climb night soon! Â And I'm sure all PDX climbers are waiting breathlessly for you to do this for them. Â HOW HAVE THEY SURVIVED WITHOUT YOU!?!?! Â We're counting on you NOLSEY! john freih is my personal hero! i think about him when i go to the bathroom Quote
Knottygirl Posted March 22, 2006 Author Posted March 22, 2006 What is PDX midweek climb night? I'm pretty new to climbing (one year+ and REALLY new to trad). But I love it and learned up at Rocky Butte, which I also love. Thanks for the tips guys! Quote
John Frieh Posted March 22, 2006 Posted March 22, 2006 Updated weekly: Â Drytool in the winter... rock climb in the summer. Generally updated weekly as new events become available. Don't hesitate to use this thread to see who is available. Quote
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