telemarker Posted July 18, 2002 Posted July 18, 2002 The fault-catapult-bone connection is a great way to get to logger's ledge. Climbed it twice now. The swing onto the bone is a kick. I'm kinda in a rutt on these routes, but they're fun, and I don't have the gumption to get on brass balls yet. Any info. on that route? Quote
erik Posted July 18, 2002 Posted July 18, 2002 bb is an awesome climb! the best one at lower castle. the protection is very good on it, especially at both mini roofs. commitment to the swing and thrown your right foot up. for the 2nd roof i straddle the block(you hear that ladies!!) and then go for the good locks. have fun and crank that bastard. remember to stayed calm and to breath! and it will seem trivial! Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 18, 2002 Posted July 18, 2002 OGM uhuh uhuh good. But I prefer the first pitch spice on Canary Quote
ScottP Posted July 19, 2002 Posted July 19, 2002 Off topic, but... Best combo on Careno Crag: 1st on Regular-Cool Struttin'-3rd on Bale/Kramer-Pocketmeister Quote
ScottP Posted July 19, 2002 Posted July 19, 2002 Off topic, but... Best combo on Careno Crag: 1st on Regular-Cool Struttin'-3rd on Bale/Kramer-Pocketmeister Quote
RedMonk Posted July 19, 2002 Posted July 19, 2002 if you do da bone again... dont forget to light a huge spliiiiif when you get to stoners' ledge... Quote
Retrosaurus Posted July 19, 2002 Posted July 19, 2002 quote: Originally posted by telemarker: ...I don't have the gumption to get on brass balls yet. Any info. on that route? Sling your pro below the first roof right to avoid fucking yourself with rope drag. The 2nd roof (crux) has really great pro (med-large stopper) that you can place from the straddle. Fingerlock as high in the crack as you can with your right hand to rreeaacchh up and left to the sloper. By far the best route on Castle Rock. Quote
Retrosaurus Posted July 19, 2002 Posted July 19, 2002 Mr Clean (5.10c) - Brass Balls (5.10b) - Devils Delight (5.10c) with the Satanic Verses finish(5.10b) . Quote
erik Posted July 19, 2002 Posted July 19, 2002 don't forget to base off the top!!!! it will save your rock shoes/bare feet the torture of the descent. when in doubt base!! Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 19, 2002 Posted July 19, 2002 Well I suppose if you were a hardman you would do Brass Balls traverse over and rap down to Stoner's Ledge. Climb up the Bone. Finish it off with Crack of Doom or Das Musak with gear only. Quote
Jens Posted July 19, 2002 Posted July 19, 2002 Bballs rocks.... Anybody done every single route at Castle? My favs.. 1st place Midway (still the best outing) 2nd MF Direct 3rd BBalls 4rth Canary or Damnation INMHO The icicle blows compared to all the stuff in tumwater canyon. Sport/ Trad/ Bouldering/ ice Quote
Thrasher Posted July 19, 2002 Posted July 19, 2002 Brass Balls is da shiznit! MR Clean is good too. Still cant do Crack of Doom. Quote
Retrosaurus Posted July 19, 2002 Posted July 19, 2002 Crack of Doom was 5.9 when I first did it back before cams. ...and before sport climbing/climbers. Quote
Szyjakowski Posted July 20, 2002 Posted July 20, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Retrosaurus: Crack of Doom was 5.9 when I first did it back before cams. ...and before sport climbing/climbers. idiot's delight and bird nest overhang are classics not to be missed but then so is diretisma and century ...ogm to cod thats probably 10a huh mitchie... ...anyone ever do monkey lip, apesville, glory days.. (lower castle),or the 11a of jy's next to cat burglar (on upper castle)??...not sure which finger crack jim went up...sport climbers should never go to castle because the pitons will rip out when they yo-yo up the classics...pitons are only still there for confidence not to fall on...maybe thats why all the pins on ddd are gone...hmmm... Quote
Peter_Puget Posted July 22, 2002 Posted July 22, 2002 Climbed these routes years ago so memory may be fading. APESVILLE: - Good pro with nuts. Climbed it before TCUs. At that time it was a bit dirty. The climb is one hard (strenuous not technical) move around lip of first roof. Good secure finger jams. MONKEY LIP: The section past the first roof is protected by KBs/Bugaboos. (almost entirely fixed) Years ago they were kinda shitty looking. The route, unlike Apesville, doesn't just directly climb through the roof but attacks it more indirectly. Not to start a controversy but a couple of stainless bolts would make this an instant classic. It was a bit dirty too. Both routes belay shortly above the first roof. I have only climbed the right hand break past the second roof. I believe that this is Apesville, as the routes cross each other. The pitch is a bit more go for it as there is a distinct possibility of hitting the slab below if you blow it. It too is dirty. Having done this once when climbing Monkey Lip when I climbed Apesville we decided to escape by climbing a ramp up and left. I think you could also move right and continue up to Logger's Ledge if you wanted to. Is that 5.11a you are thinking of Hangdog? I hardly remember it. It was ok pro kinda funky. I Tr'd it before leading it so I can't say what is would be like onsight. I remember it being an easy .11a. The crux might be getting past a small roof at the bottom? Sorry not a memorable route. PP Quote
Jens Posted July 23, 2002 Posted July 23, 2002 [: ...anyone ever do monkey lip, apesville, glory days.. (lower castle),or the 11a of jy's next to cat burglar (on upper castle)??...not sure which finger crack jim went up... Barely remember trying monkey lip a long time ago when I was a freshman at CWU. It had pitons that were painted orange. I did a bunch of hangdogging. The 11a you are refering to is called hangdog. It is a nice TR with a short but sweet crux. Be prepared to fall a ways if you are leading. Anybody done northwind or the north ridge route? Quote
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